Bronco Type XXIII by Ken

[Ken_NJ]

After having the kit sit on a shelf for a few years I'm finally getting to the Bronco Type XXIII. Don't we all have boats waiting in line??? I'm putting my party boat build of the Big Marie S on hold for now. I hope to have the XXIII ready in some manner for Groton in September 2025. If I have it running but not painted, I'd be happy with that. Paint wise, going to repaint my test article I used to practice air brushing to paint the Skipjack to colors for the XXIII so that I can practice with the different colors on this boat and further my techniques. I have the sub driver (thank you publicly to David) and electronics except the ESC ready to assemble. I'll ask later about the ESC. In the meantime, research! David graciously let me borrow some of his books and papers when Carol and I paid him a visit. Pics later on those. Many people have built and converted this model into RC. I seem to always be behind in the times with my choice of kits and builds. And I seem to gravitate towards styrene kits? Hmmmm, why is that?

I have a few builds to follow on the ND forum. Here are links to those. Hopefully this thread will be useful to anyone else that will build the XXIII as an RC model.

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/builder-threads/2413-converting-the-bronco-type-xxiii-to-rc

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/builder-threads/131561-a-type-xxiii-in-ireland

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/builder-threads/128064-bill-bibeault-bronco-type-xxiii-build

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/builder-competitions/2560-tom-chalfant-bronco-type-xxiii

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/builder-threads/152523-bronco-type-xxiii-build

Here is David's info in the non-existent XXIII fittings kit

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/general-topics/135225-today-s-work/page58#post157799

Bob's video on the 32nd Parallel XXIII and D&E Miniatures sub driver
https://youtu.be/OH4IehwxHho?si=CBU3iOUYkUn677Se

And finally, I went thru David's 'Today's work' and cataloged any entry, or post he did, on the XXIII. I have those as bookmarks so cannot post those links here. Here is a screenshot of half of those links, useless to you.



As I progress in this project, I will be doing things how I want to do them, not necessarily how you or others may do them. I consider myself an advance builder since I prefer to scratch build models. I have my Marlin and Skipjack under my belt but I would not say I'm an expert with submarines, but I think I can do an excellent job, kick ass! I may get a bit unorthodox to some of you. I can hear David moaning and cursing me on 'that's not how to do it you dope'. Steve Jobs was known for his innovative leadership and "think different" approach, encouraging out-of-the-box thinking and challenging conventional wisdom, this will be me.

[Ken_NJ]

To start, the hull is in sections. Will be easier to sand the hull, scratch up the surface, while it is not assembled. I cut up an emery board and use that to scratch up the smooth surface around the panel perimeters then use 220 grit paper to finish off the center of each panel. The emery board helps get right up to the weld lines. And those weld line are not smooth, they are rough to appear as real weld lines. Every once in a while snip the emery end off to get a fresh section. Once sanding is done the hull will be washed with soap and water inside and out, and probably washed a few times.



Lots of area to cover.







As it is the hull feels flimsy. This support structure will need to be removed to make way for the sub driver.



Coming up.
Assembly of the sub driver.
Complete sanding the hull.
Figure out how to have torpedo doors moveable.
Hull opening for water and air entry and exit.
Add appendages (dive planes etc).
Cutting open the top of the hull for the sub driver.
And more.
The sail will come at a later time for now, concentrating on the hull.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

To start, the hull is in sections. Will be easier to sand the hull, scratch up the surface, while it is not assembled. I cut up an emery board and use that to scratch up the smooth surface around the panel perimeters then use 220 grit paper to finish off the center of each panel. The emery board helps get right up to the weld lines. And those weld line are not smooth, they are rough to appear as real weld lines. Every once in a while snip the emery end off to get a fresh section. Once sanding is done the hull will be washed with soap and water inside and out, and probably washed a few times.



Lots of area to cover.







As it is the hull feels flimsy. This support structure will need to be removed to make way for the sub driver.



Coming up.
Assembly of the sub driver.
Complete sanding the hull.
Figure out how to have torpedo doors moveable.
Hull opening for water and air entry and exit.
Add appendages (dive planes etc).
Cutting open the top of the hull for the sub driver.
And more.
The sail will come at a later time for now, concentrating on the hull.

And scrub all exterior portions with Dio-Sol or other surface prep, applied with an abrasive pad.

[redboat219]

This support structure will need to be removed to make way for the sub driver.

could this have been used as a functional ballast tank for the model?

[Ken_NJ]

Rob, this model was meant to be a static display model. Since the hull is thin, flimsy and flexes easily it was probably added there to give the hull rigidity.

And scrub all exterior portions with Dio-Sol or other surface prep, applied with an abrasive pad.

I cannot find Dio-sol doing a search. One model site mentioned to be careful in its usage. Is washing and rinsing with water and soap insufficient? You use and have many things that you have used and had for a long time. Like the automotive paints you recently had to replace. If Dio-sol is not available, what else can be used to wash down prior to painting?

[biggsgolf]

“PREPARE PLASTIC WITH TEE SHIRT SOAKED IN PREP” per David
Sem Prep

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

“PREPARE PLASTIC WITH TEE SHIRT SOAKED IN PREP” per David
Sem Prep

Good man! Commence hostilities, sir...

[Ken_NJ]

All I can see on the can is Prep. Prep what? Need the rest of the name please. Did another internet search and did not come up with anything.

Here are the books, reference materials, David so graciously let me borrow. Lots of good information within.





And some handwritten notes.



And a few pictures. All good stuff!



I have all that is needed for the sub driver. Except a speed controller. My Marlin and Skipjack both have Mtroniks ESC's. And we'e seen and talked about the problems with these. David recently had one die on him. What is your go to ESC? Bob leans towards the Python which is listed on his 'Favorite Products' page. And please, what is the name of the prep stuff used to wipe down the styrene?

[Subculture]

Haven't purchased a brushed esc in years. Tended to use Microgyros but no longer available. This one comes recommended but perhaps a bit big for your boat?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387357762625

[Subculture]

These also work well enough for low draw applications, but only okay for lower voltage (under 8v ) systems. If you're running 2s it should fine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286418397...G4HSVWN4BMVH7F

[biggsgolf]

Sorry, was blurry ,
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-38374-Sol...ustomerReviews

[Ken_NJ]

Thanks on the prep solution, yea it was blurry.

And I failed to mention, the motor is brushed, and the batteries are 3s.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks on the prep solution, yea it was blurry.

And I failed to mention, the motor is brushed, and the batteries are 3s.

That'll work. Just take the throttle end-points to 35% ahead/astern. Even then, don't go nuts on the throttle stick.

[Ken_NJ]

David, what is your go to brushed ESC?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, what is your go to brushed ESC?

Mtroniks........