Bronco Type XXIII by Ken

[Ken_NJ]

While we are figuring out the receiver issue...

Aft dive planes and prop shaft
For the prop shaft, cut a Dumas coupler in half and inserted in an aluminum tube. Holes were drilled through the tube and coupler and a brass pin was inserted.

Much easier to do this when the hull parts were taken apart.



The rudder and dive plane push rods were fashioned and the magnetic couples were added.



A 3/32 brass rod was used to hold the arm in place while making up the push rod.



Fortunately I had different color matching click ons which were used for each push rod.






Reassembled the hull sections.



Looks good at this point. The push rods were created with the servos at the neutral position. Will have to see how this works when we have the 75Mhz receiver installed. I can also try it out with the 2.4Ghz receiver.









Left to do before Groton...
Get Sub driver stuffed and tested
Hold downs for main deck and rudder cover
Get the sail on in some manner
If time, get some detail on the deck and sail
Install weights
Install foam
Trim the boat in the test tank (bath tub)
And whatever else I can think of

DONE
Linkage SD to prop dive shaft
Make linkages to dive planes

[MFR1964]

You're getting there Ken, splitting the hull makes live easier for tinkering on al moving parts which normally are difficult to reach, i have the same advantage with mine, good to see you have the same advantage.

Manfred..

[Ken_NJ]

It certainly does Manfred. And here I am doing it again.

Forward dive planes

A note about the aft dive planes. The shaft arm set screw is pretty deep and would be difficult to tighten with an ordinary Allen wrench. I bought a few 3/32 ball end Allen wrenches. Cut one and friction pressed the ends into a four inch brass tube. Now I have a deep Allen wrench to tighten that set screw. I already had a 0.050 wrench like this when I built the Skipjack.















Back to the forward dive planes. First time I separated the hull in half like this. Usually I split at the center.



All the parts for the forward dive plane. Something I'm going to try and see how it works. Note the two lone brass tubes of different sizes.They will slip on the tube the arm is soldered too. When I insert the arm/tube assembly in the boat, I can slide those tubes over the tube attached to the hull and it should hold the arm/tube in place so I can then insert the dive planes. Otherwise I have to push in a dive plane and maneuver the tube/arm in place in that small small space with my big hands, If it doesn't work, then those tubes come off.



I need to make a fitting to reverse the direction of the servo output on the aft end of the sub driver. Brass 1/4" stock is drilled and tapped.



And here is that fitting.






I had a 24" 1/16" brass rod. I added three guides CA'd onto the sub driver to hold this push rod in place.






A 3/32" rod was used as a shaft and the connected push rod was bent to shape and David's handy click ons were added. Pain in the ass getting it to the right shape as it has bends in multiple directions.



Forward dive planes.



Aft dive planes.



With the hull put back together.






Interior of forward area. That 3/32 ball end Allen wrench will come in handy here as well. The wall in front of the shaft arm had to be cut in order for the arm to have the correct travel.



Next up drilling water and vent holes on the keel area and deck area and doing something with the sail. The sail will also have to come apart. The sail on my Marlin and Skipjack also come apart.

And David should be getting my transmitter and doing up a 75MHz receiver for me. Crossing my fingers on that.

[redboat219]

Anybody know how to make Ken's thread like David's cabal report .

[Das Boot]

I hate talent.

[Ken_NJ]

Anybody know how to make Ken's thread like David's cabal report .

I don't think there is a need for this. This plastic kit has been around for a while. Who knows how long it will be in production, or if it is not by now. How many people will be building it moving forward? Anyone that will build it are old timers, there is no new blood coming into the hobby. Just like David's fittings kit, younger people these days will be 3D printing boats. The procedures I'm posting here, David's 'Todays work' thread and any other build threads should give anyone ideas how to build any boat. You just need to be creative. I'll also eventually have this build posted on my web site. I update on this forum first and updating my web site gets tedious so I'm behind there.

[Das Boot]

I’ve got one brand new in the box that I’ve had advertised for over a year, and I can’t get rid of the damn thing. I knew it was way beyond my technical capabilities, so I decided to dump it.

[Nathan]

I’ve got one brand new in the box that I’ve had advertised for over a year, and I can’t get rid of the damn thing. I knew it was way beyond my technical capabilities, so I decided to dump it.

Where is it posted? I might be interested

[Das Boot]

Where is it posted? I might be interested

For sale section.

[goshawk823]

For sale section.

Thanks for reminding me about that, Casey. I’m still trying to decide what to do with the butchered one I have, and my new one still in the box. The only saving grace for the one that was hacked trying to open it for R/C (by whom, I don’t know), is that it has the fittings that everyone is talking about in the XXIII build thread of Ken’s. Other than that, I may just keep that kit for spare parts.
Let me know if you still have it after Nathan.

[Das Boot]

First come first serve. I’ll never build it. I’m ready to get rid of it.

[Ken_NJ]

Keel fill-drain holes

The distance between the holes was calculated and it was decided that 13/16" between them worked well. They were marked out and some fell on spots where the machine screws attached the hull sections together so those points will be skipped as will be seen later.

This is the setup on the drill press to drill these holes. The upright c-clamps help hold the hull in position.






Drilling commenced with a 1/8" bit, then 3/16", then 1/4", then the final 5/16" bit.



Notice the skipped points where the machine screws are.



Starting the 3/16" holes.



All done with the holes cleaned out with a reamer for the edges and a 5/16 file for the insides. Notice the skipped points in this forward hull section.



Skipped points in the aft section.



Inside forward section.



Inside aft section.



The vent holes in the deck will be decided once I do something with the sail and deck details. Since the sail will be removable and the halves taken apart as well, I'm figuring out which parts of the kit I need to use and those that will not be used.

[Ken_NJ]

Question for David.

What material is the float here? I'd like to have this fit more into the triangular area at the aft end of the sail. Would this not be recommended?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Question for David.

What material is the float here? I'd like to have this fit more into the triangular area at the aft end of the sail. Would this not be recommended?

The white stuff is RenShape, 20 lbs per cubic foot. The blue stuff is simply polyurethane, closed-cell insulation sheeting.

Three snorkel arrangements for your consideration, Ken.














David
Still can't get a ****ing Bronco Type-23 to work right

[Ken_NJ]

I think the triangular one will work best in my situation. Can you send me one?

How well the the exhaust housing one work?