Bronco Type XXIII by Ken
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Assembling the sail
Since I'll be doing something mechanical in the sail I wanted to make it easily serviceable. So I'm making it splittable without seeing any fasteners. Like the hull not sure how this will work out.
What parts do I need, and not need. Determining that here.
These holes needed to be opened up so did that. The tabs were solid, so drilled holes through the tabs and cleaned up with a fine file.
The top of the sail was attached to the starboard side of the sail with solvent. The port side will be removeable.
Shaped and added these tabs.
They get a machine screw to hold this part together.
The top aft port side gets these tabs.
Which slide in when attached both halves together.
And gives a nice not so noticeable joint. Thank you Bronco for making accurate parts.
The exhaust housing gets these two acrylic parts. They were shaped as one unit to fit in position then cut in half so one piece is attached to each half of the sail. Holes were then drilled on the drill press and they were tapped for 2-56.
The connecting piece was then made. The screw on the right is a through hole. The one on the left is a slot. When the sail is taken apart I just need to loosen the slotted screw. The 8-32 bolt will go through the deck holding the sail down to the hull
Notice the ribs were filed down at TDC to allow any air bubbles to pass wherever they want to go.
Added these two acrylic foundations at the forward end.
And made a similar mounting point at the forward end of the sail.
These are the two parts that hold the sail to the deck. The knurled nuts hold the sail to the deck with the 8-32 bolts.
Like this. I first used this method on my Marlin about 13 years ago. It works very well.
Sail attached to the deck.
Forward joint. Not sure yet what to do on the ladder rungs. That is a future decision.
The exhaust housing area. There will be a seam. Again, thanks to Bronco for decent work.
I had to file down the deck area forward on the section that positions the sail so the sail would fit. See the scratches. Those will be cleaned up at a later time.
Notice the lower scuppers against the hull, you can see the deck thingy that positions the sail. That will require attention, later.
Same applies here
Not sure if I'll ave another post before Groton, have much to do.Last edited by Ken_NJ; 09-07-2025, 10:06 AM.Leave a comment:
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I think the triangular one will work best in my situation. Can you send me one?
How well the the exhaust housing one work?Leave a comment:
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Question for David.
What material is the float here? I'd like to have this fit more into the triangular area at the aft end of the sail. Would this not be recommended?
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Keel fill-drain holes
The distance between the holes was calculated and it was decided that 13/16" between them worked well. They were marked out and some fell on spots where the machine screws attached the hull sections together so those points will be skipped as will be seen later.
This is the setup on the drill press to drill these holes. The upright c-clamps help hold the hull in position.
Drilling commenced with a 1/8" bit, then 3/16", then 1/4", then the final 5/16" bit.
Notice the skipped points where the machine screws are.
Starting the 3/16" holes.
All done with the holes cleaned out with a reamer for the edges and a 5/16 file for the insides. Notice the skipped points in this forward hull section.
Skipped points in the aft section.
Inside forward section.
Inside aft section.
The vent holes in the deck will be decided once I do something with the sail and deck details. Since the sail will be removable and the halves taken apart as well, I'm figuring out which parts of the kit I need to use and those that will not be used.Leave a comment:
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First come first serve. I’ll never build it. I’m ready to get rid of it.Leave a comment:
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Thanks for reminding me about that, Casey. I’m still trying to decide what to do with the butchered one I have, and my new one still in the box. The only saving grace for the one that was hacked trying to open it for R/C (by whom, I don’t know), is that it has the fittings that everyone is talking about in the XXIII build thread of Ken’s. Other than that, I may just keep that kit for spare parts.
Let me know if you still have it after Nathan.Leave a comment:
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I’ve got one brand new in the box that I’ve had advertised for over a year, and I can’t get rid of the damn thing. I knew it was way beyond my technical capabilities, so I decided to dump it.Leave a comment:
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I don't think there is a need for this. This plastic kit has been around for a while. Who knows how long it will be in production, or if it is not by now. How many people will be building it moving forward? Anyone that will build it are old timers, there is no new blood coming into the hobby. Just like David's fittings kit, younger people these days will be 3D printing boats. The procedures I'm posting here, David's 'Todays work' thread and any other build threads should give anyone ideas how to build any boat. You just need to be creative. I'll also eventually have this build posted on my web site. I update on this forum first and updating my web site gets tedious so I'm behind there.Leave a comment:
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Anybody know how to make Ken's thread like David's cabal report .Leave a comment:
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It certainly does Manfred. And here I am doing it again.
Forward dive planes
A note about the aft dive planes. The shaft arm set screw is pretty deep and would be difficult to tighten with an ordinary Allen wrench. I bought a few 3/32 ball end Allen wrenches. Cut one and friction pressed the ends into a four inch brass tube. Now I have a deep Allen wrench to tighten that set screw. I already had a 0.050 wrench like this when I built the Skipjack.
Back to the forward dive planes. First time I separated the hull in half like this. Usually I split at the center.
All the parts for the forward dive plane. Something I'm going to try and see how it works. Note the two lone brass tubes of different sizes.They will slip on the tube the arm is soldered too. When I insert the arm/tube assembly in the boat, I can slide those tubes over the tube attached to the hull and it should hold the arm/tube in place so I can then insert the dive planes. Otherwise I have to push in a dive plane and maneuver the tube/arm in place in that small small space with my big hands, If it doesn't work, then those tubes come off.
I need to make a fitting to reverse the direction of the servo output on the aft end of the sub driver. Brass 1/4" stock is drilled and tapped.
And here is that fitting.
I had a 24" 1/16" brass rod. I added three guides CA'd onto the sub driver to hold this push rod in place.
A 3/32" rod was used as a shaft and the connected push rod was bent to shape and David's handy click ons were added. Pain in the ass getting it to the right shape as it has bends in multiple directions.
Forward dive planes.
Aft dive planes.
With the hull put back together.
Interior of forward area. That 3/32 ball end Allen wrench will come in handy here as well. The wall in front of the shaft arm had to be cut in order for the arm to have the correct travel.
Next up drilling water and vent holes on the keel area and deck area and doing something with the sail. The sail will also have to come apart. The sail on my Marlin and Skipjack also come apart.
And David should be getting my transmitter and doing up a 75MHz receiver for me. Crossing my fingers on that.Last edited by Ken_NJ; 08-23-2025, 06:38 AM.Leave a comment:











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