Bronco Type XXIII by Ken

[goshawk823]

Just curious Ken. Are you going to do the hull opening basically as David did on his XXIII?

[MFR1964]

Ken,

First i made the frontpart and the backpart, since i use the radial cut, they are joined at the point where the model is splitted originally.
I would made the front and backpart first to get a good aligment, then join both parts, you can use a kind of jigg to get both halves inline before glueing both parts.

Manfred.

[Ken_NJ]

Just curious Ken. Are you going to do the hull opening basically as David did on his XXIII?

Yes, the opening will be the deck area as David did.

Manfred, yes and I go through your build thread to get ideas, so I saw how you assembled the hull. To get accurate alignment will all the parts, probably best to do as you say.

[redboat219]

Ken,

First i made the frontpart and the backpart, since i use the radial cut, they are joined at the point where the model is splitted originally.
I would made the front and backpart first to get a good aligment, then join both parts, you can use a kind of jigg to get both halves inline before glueing both parts.

Manfred.

Just want to make sure i got it right. So glue the front and back sections of one side together first then glue the completed left- right halves together.

[Ken_NJ]

It's glue the two front sections together. Glue the two rear sections together. Then glue the front section to the back section. This way you only have the radial alignment to deal with any imperfections which are hopefully minimal.

If you did glue the port sides together, and separately glue the starboard sides together, then glue the port and starboard sides together you may have to deal with more misalignment the perimeter of the entire hull which may be very difficult to deal with.

[redboat219]

Understood.

[MFR1964]

Ken,

I can still take the complete hull apart in 4 pieces since i used little tabs and screws, done this for access due to the radial cut.
Following the route David did will give you easier access, took the radial cut to see if it was possible, if not, had David's solution as plan B

Manfred.

[Ken_NJ]

I kinda thought about doing that earlier. I did use screws and tabs in the Skipjack bow so I could service the door mechanism in the bow. I'm going to look into that again Manfred. Thanks for mentioning it. I am going to have working bow doors so that would allow me to service those doors.

Stay tuned!

One problem I now have. I have a Viper Marine 20. It is physically too big, will not fit in the SD. A Viper 10 will fit but I don't see any available in the US. None in the US on eBay. Harbor Models has them listed but none in stock. Any ideas where I can get one? A Hobbywing 1060 also appears to be to big.

[type7]

Check with Don at Loyalhanna, https://www.loyalhannadockyard.com He sold me some last year. Email him, he should respond. You cannot tell what he has from his website.

[redboat219]

How about this. Although not waterproof as the Viper.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I kinda thought about doing that earlier. I did use screws and tabs in the Skipjack bow so I could service the door mechanism in the bow. I'm going to look into that again Manfred. Thanks for mentioning it. I am going to have working bow doors so that would allow me to service those doors.

Stay tuned!

One problem I now have. I have a Viper Marine 20. It is physically too big, will not fit in the SD. A Viper 10 will fit but I donât see any available in the US. None in the US on eBay. Harbor Models has them listed but none in stock. Any ideas where I can get one? A Hobbywing 1060 also appears to be to big.

If you have a 8 or less Volt main-bus then I can fix you up with a small, but effective ESC.

[Ken_NJ]

Did something change on the web site? Seems the procedure to upload photos changed, or attaching them to the post. At least for me.

I already have the batteries I wanted to use. They are 3s Lipo which is + or - 12v. The Viper 10 specs do not list Lipo batteries. So why couldn't it be used with Lipo's? I did find someone that will have Viper 10's delivered at the end of next week. He will let me know when he gets them. Mtroniks seem to have issues going over the 12v spec. A fully charged 3s battery can be over 12v. A 12v any type pack can also be over 12v. I use the Viper 10 in my Marlin with a larger than 2 inch prop at 8.4volts. The Bronco does have about a 2 inch prop. I don't see an issue with the Viper 10 and 2 inch prop, do you? And, I can easily switch to NiMH if need be. I like to have all my parts before I start assembling the SD, so I'll have to wait for now.

Thoughts PLEASE?

https://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-micro-Marine-10.htm

[JHapprich]

Does that esc have a lipo safer?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Does that esc have a lipo safer?

Nope, just a weak BEC.

[Ken_NJ]

I sent an email to Mtroniks asking about using a 3s Lipo on the Viper 10. Here is Pauil's response. So I'll be ordering two Viper 10's from someplace here in the US, they should be getting a delivery sometime at the end of this week.


Hi Ken,
They will run perfectly well on 3S lipo cells, however, they do not have a dedicated Lipo safe low voltage cut off. So you would need to make sure that you didn't run the cells too low or you could cause damage to the cells.


Assembling the four hull sections

After much thought, I will not be gluing the four hull sections together. I will be sort of doing what Manfred did with his XXIII when he built his back in 2013. That would be bolting them together. How well this will work is to be seen. As of this writing I have the forward section done and will start working on bolting the aft section together. Once the aft section is done I will work on bolting the forward and aft sections together. One reason for doing this is that the torpedo doors will not be accessible should I need to service them. The doors will open and close via a servo, so I will need access to that area. I would not be able to access them should the hull sections be glued together.

Link to Manfred method of bolting the hull sections..... https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/build...8805#post38805


This is a test piece of my method. The gray styrene simulates the hull and acrylic tabs will help join the hull sections together. I will be using 2-56 and 080 machine screws. 2-56 will be on the bottom and 080 will be in more visible places.



Making up the acrylic tabs. Getting the edges clean after cutting on the band saw.



Acrylic tabs ready to apply.



Tabs glued in place.





I used this solvent to join the tabs to the styrene hull. It seems to work much better than the small bottles of styrene solvent. The tabs are really solid.



Bow acrylic shaped. Took a while to do these, especially the lower one.



With the location marked on the hull bottom, a pilot mark was manually located, then the correct size bit for a tap was used to drill the holes.

The dash lines you see on the outer part of the hull are the location of the internal ribbing.



After drilling the holes were tapped.



Here you see the tapped holes in the tabs.



Then a reamer was used to countersink the holes for the flat head machine screws.



This is the bottom, an unseen area. They will get some paint eventually.





These are 080 screws on the upper bow deck area.