today's work

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[DrSchmidt]

Beautiful....

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[Marylandradiosailor]

HWSNBN ... does the RubnBuf gold dry to a hard coating? I have read some complaints on other modeling forums that folks have said it always remains a bit soft ? TIA, Khim

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

HWSNBN ... does the RubnBuf gold dry to a hard coating? I have read some complaints on other modeling forums that folks have said it always remains a bit soft ? TIA, Khim

It's more of a 'smear' type coating, petroleum or animal oil/wax binder-solvent. Best applied over a rough surface such as a flat finish where the 'grainy' surface gives enough tooth to hold the medium in place without risk of shrugging off do to handling or accident.

It eventually dries hard, but it has low adhesion to a smooth substrate, but will cling well to a rough substrate.

David

[DrSchmidt]

Can you polish RubnBuf? I use wax based metal colors (https://ak-interactive.com/product-c...-metal-paints/) that are very nice, that can be polished, but which can be partially rubbed off, even when applied on primer.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Can you polish RubnBuf? I use wax based metal colors (https://ak-interactive.com/product-c...-metal-paints/) that are very nice, that can be polished, but which can be partially rubbed off, even when applied on primer.

Yes, they can be polished to a nice sheen. But, as you pointed out, are also subject to abrading away if polished too aggressively. In this case I put the Rub n' Buff on neat as it will later be weathered to match the mung seen on the lower hull.

[rwtdiver]

David,

I know that I have stated this before! But your skills for applying your authentic paint schemes and weathering to your boats is masterful. I have at one time suffered your painful thoughts of what I have done on most of my boats. (a rattle can jockey, and just out of drydock schemes)

You have laterally shamed me into wanting to do better in the area of more authentic paint schemes and learn to do weathering. And so, I think my German 212 A boat will be a good starting point.

Thank you very much for all the great work that you do and posting it up. You are a real inspiration for us ALL to follow!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Ken_NJ]

D.M. I hate you.

Well not really.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

D.M. I hate you.

Well not really.

https://youtu.be/XjMiVRVpFs0

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,

I know that I have stated this before! But your skills for applying your authentic paint schemes and weathering to your boats is masterful. I have at one time suffered your painful thoughts of what I have done on most of my boats. (a rattle can jockey, and just out of drydock schemes)

You have laterally shamed me into wanting to do better in the area of more authentic paint schemes and learn to do weathering. And so, I think my German 212 A boat will be a good starting point.

Thank you very much for all the great work that you do and posting it up. You are a real inspiration for us ALL to follow!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

When you start smearing things on that model of yours and get hung up on something, don't hesitate to give me a shout. I'll be merciful... I'll use the sharp knife; you won't feel a thing, pal. Welcome to the big-league.

David
The Horrible

[bwi 971]

Fantastic that you provided the letters in way of the securing & lashing point hatches.

Grtz,
Bart

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Fantastic that you provided the letters in way of the securing & lashing point hatches.

Grtz,
Bart

Yes. A happy occurrence that the number 3 on the Woodland Scenic dry-transfer set #747 was the size and shape of the Russian submarine latch identification marking. Fortun smiled in this situation.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]