today's work

[DrSchmidt]

Of course you can...

[JHapprich]

Maybe a dumb question, but can i use cotton flock with polyester resin, too? In the past, i used chopped fibres to mix up a thick resin to fill corners.

[DrSchmidt]

Cotton flock is a must have for GRP. You can make a thick mixture and smear it into corners to create a radius so that you can get the glass fiber layed down properly. Much more strength than with micro balloons....

[Subculture]

One supplier https://fiberglassflorida.com/filler...uDT-zTZSvR77nd

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

As I said: When you cover the gel coat with cotton flocks right after application and the let the gel coat cure, you'll get a coupling layer that doesn't require sanding after removal of the excess flocks. You get cotton fibers that are partly are stuck in the gel coat and that have an open end that will be anchored in the epoxy of the grp layers.

https://www.r-g.de/en/art/210115

Sounds like the perfect interface. I'll give it a go when I can source the cotton flock. Thanks again.

David

[DrSchmidt]

That's right, Steve. Today I rough sand the hardened gel-coat then get on with four (maybe more?) laminates of 7 ounce cloth. Should be popping out two hull halves by the end of the week.

As for your evil, SkyNet, Robot produced A26 (the airplane??) model: Prepare the interior for glass work by scrubbing it down with a greenie-pad soaked in lacquer thinner -- wiping it dry quickly so you don't melt the thing. Then use a very, very light-weight cloth that will not bunch up on you as you brush resin over the weave to secure it to the models substrate.

As I said: When you cover the gel coat with cotton flocks right after application and the let the gel coat cure, you'll get a coupling layer that doesn't require sanding after removal of the excess flocks. You get cotton fibers that are partly are stuck in the gel coat and that have an open end that will be anchored in the epoxy of the grp layers.

https://www.r-g.de/en/art/210115

[Subculture]

I think you mean Tom rather than Steve, Dave.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The Cab-o-sil was used with the gel coat and then you will lay cloth down? Trying to understand the process. Just put cloth down on a 3D printed A26, I s**k (inhale violently) at this.

That's right, Steve. Today I rough sand the hardened gel-coat then get on with four (maybe more?) laminates of 7 ounce cloth. Should be popping out two hull halves by the end of the week.

As for your evil, SkyNet, Robot produced A26 (the airplane??) model: Prepare the interior for glass work by scrubbing it down with a greenie-pad soaked in lacquer thinner -- wiping it dry quickly so you don't melt the thing. Then use a very, very light-weight cloth that will not bunch up on you as you brush resin over the weave to secure it to the models substrate.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I wondered what the spray gun was for, are you applying a release agent?

A cheapy Harbor Freight touch-up gun with a 1.5mm nozzle.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ah, you thride the thickening agent. Hwo did it work out for you?

Perfect, Doc. Smooth as butter when using the proper gun and nozzle size. Thank you so much for the tip.

David

[trout]

The Cab-o-sil was used with the gel coat and then you will lay cloth down? Trying to understand the process. Just put cloth down on a 3D printed A26, I s**k (inhale violently) at this.

[DrSchmidt]

Ah, you thride the thickening agent. Hwo did it work out for you?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

My experience:
Standard gel coat with a bit of color as top coat. When applied and still wet, I use a kitchen sieve to lay down a thick layer of cotton fibre, then I let the gel coat cure. After that you blow away the remaining cotton fibre and you get a turf like surface that is ideal for coupling the fibre galss layers to the top coat.

Sounds like the perfect interface between gel-coat and laminates. I'll give it a shot. Thanks again, Doctor.

David