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What, specifically, Matt?
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Who is John Galt? -
1) the placement of the rod and torque tube on top of the wtc does it make a difference? What hardware resin pieces are involved?
2) how do i make up the push rod connections to both the rod and torque tube? I see some pics and i have a general idea, but nothing concrete
3) torque tub to the retract mechanizim. Do i make another dog bone connection like the thrust rods?
4) is there a permanent connection step i need to do with the bow planes to the retract mech? Right now there are two small rods that the struts go over but nothing keeps them from sliding off them over time and movement... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
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So, i think ive got this figured out. I had to really study trouts pics to make sure i understood what was going on. I also readjusted the wiring inside the drive area. Still squished but better. I might use rtv on the servos instead of servo tape. Ill see how the tape holds up
ive rtv the switch. Ive added the snort bulkhead to the end of the wtc with more rtv for a nice seal. I raised the bow torque bearing some using more rtv. Seems to work nicely.
More to do tonightAttached Files... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
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When hooking up the snorkel within my SAS. Is there anything special i need to do with the hoses that leave the wtc? From the pictures ive seen it seems that i just match them up to the bulkhead on top of the wtc then take another hose and connect it to the float part on the upper hull
thoughts?... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
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Hey, Matt!!
Lookin' good, buddy!
But, what, exactly, is your float made of? It almost looks like something other than foam!?
The smooth surface looks like it's really tight celled!
Keep up the good work!
CCGComment
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Test your ends by placing a finger over the openings to see which is sucking and which is blowing just to verify.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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So, when that is determined where do i go from there on hooking it up to that bulkhead right before it goes to the upper hull. That bulkhead has two hose ends and one on the other side that leads up to the upper hull float... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
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Sorry this is a little off-topic:
M: Renshape 5030? If so, where can I get a pretty small quantity? Don't want a whole sheet, just enough
for my Gato.
CGComment
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Awesome! Thanks guys for the feedback!
next question: according to the dvd set the props were attatched to the drive shafts via CA. Is that the perminent solution?... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
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Not that permanent.
You can remove the entire shaft with glued on propeller by removing the (removable!) stern planes. To pop the propeller off without damage you put a torch to the shaft, about three-inches ahead of the propeller. The heat eventually conducts to the glue holding the propeller in place, it weakens, and you yank the propeller off the shaft. Two of the many virtues of Cyanoacrylate adhesives is that it will fail with heat and shock.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Ok cool, so its ok to use the CA route when installing the props then?
also, David, any word back from Mike with the 75mhz or do i need to even worry about it with 72mhz that i have today?... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
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@david: any word from mike about 75mhz?
separate note, i have a ton more pics of progress to post! Hopefully this weekend... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
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