GATO! (It has begun)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

1. It's a Klystron Relay -- provides faster than light communications between your transmitter and receiver ... oh, wait. No. Never mind. I'm OK now...

It's the BEC. The ****-ant little BEC in the ESC does not have the ass to provide the current all those servos and other devices pull off the receiver bus. The one you circled is rated for 5-Ampere's, the one in the ESC is good for only 2-Ampere's. Take the red wire of the ESC lead off the plug, this will isolate the ESC's BEC from the big BEC (otherwise they get into a pushing match against each other, sending a lot of noise to the other devices).

2. You use only two poles on that switch, the center one and one of the end ones. Duh! a simple series circuit between battery and battery lead that goes aft through the conduit tube and into the after dry space.

3. No. Cut away that big white, ugly Tamia connector and replace it with the red Dean's connector (male to the four devices all wired in parallel -- ESC, LPB controller, Lipo-Guard, and big ugly BEC; female to the after end of the power cable that runs back from the battery). Observe polarity on everything or die a horrible death.

4. The ADF2's 'pitch' side receives the stern plane servo lead and the lead from the ADF2 runs to the receiver ch-6 port (flaps). The Y-lead connects to the 'fail-safe' side of the ADF2 -- one plug makes up to the ballast sub-system servo, the other plug makes up to the LPB's controller. The input lead from the ADF-2 'fail-safe side makes up to the Lipo-Guard. The input lead of the Lipo-Guard makes up to the receiver ch-4 port.

5. ARE YOU NUTS!!!???..... NO!!!!! You got a full plate as it is, lets not get stupid!

You people!!!!

M

[crazygary]

Howsabout the flux capacitor????
Everybody overlooks the damned flux capacitor!! (LOL)

cg

[matthewnimmo]

@David: thanks for the info! So i have a few more questions based upon your responses

1) so, i remove the red lead from end of the connector that fits into receiver from the ESC? But what do i do with exposed wires on the big BEC that doesnt have a connector on it. You said that the lipo guard connects to the big ugly BEC

2) yeah i used my volt meter to determine which poles to use on the switch, but my question is. What would be the best way to connect the main power cable to the switch, the switch to the battery, and the battery to the power cable. Guess i could cut one of the red dean connectors in half and attach each separate connector to a single wire?

3) what is the LBP controller that you speak of? Im sure im going to hit myself as soon as you tell me lol

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

@David: thanks for the info! So i have a few more questions based upon your responses

1) so, i remove the red lead from end of the connector that fits into receiver from the ESC? But what do i do with exposed wires on the big BEC that doesnt have a connector on it. You said that the lipo guard connects to the big ugly BEC

2) yeah i used my volt meter to determine which poles to use on the switch, but my question is. What would be the best way to connect the main power cable to the switch, the switch to the battery, and the battery to the power cable. Guess i could cut one of the red dean connectors in half and attach each separate connector to a single wire?

3) what is the LBP controller that you speak of? Im sure im going to hit myself as soon as you tell me lol

1. Yes.

The red and black wires from the BEC are the power input wires -- they are soldered to the Dean's male plug in parallel with the Lipo-Guard, ESC, and LPB controller red and black wires

2.

3. The MPC -- attached to the back-side of the LPB motor

M

[matthewnimmo]

Ok, so is this diagram correct then? The red sections are the Red Dean connectors


1) Any type of fuse work?
2) Are you soldering directly to the switch? Can't really tell from the pictures you have (the pics are great, but i can't see the arrangement behind the cap)

Thanks again,

[trout]

Very close. The fuse should be attached between the battery and the switch on the positive side. As I look at it, that should work. Here is a drawing David made a while back, I modified to show fuse in.

This drawing is not correct for the BEC. You will not be using the BEC from the ESC. So the RX connector from the ESC to the receiver, will need the red cable to be removed or cut. The dedicated BEC, that you have, will need to get tied in.

[Scott T]

(neg)Black wire from battery to switch pole(center tab).
Then black wire from switch pole (side tab) too input side of fuse block.
Black wire from output side of fuse block too (-) BEC.
(pos) Red battery wire too (+)BEC.
I think that's right? Isn't the electron flow going negative to Positive? So the fuse should be in the negative lead?


Scott T

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ok, so is this diagram correct then? The red sections are the Red Dean connectors
[ATTACH=CONFIG]26499[/ATTACH]

1) Any type of fuse work?
2) Are you soldering directly to the switch? Can't really tell from the pictures you have (the pics are great, but i can't see the arrangement behind the cap)

Thanks again,

1. 15 Ampere's, slow-blow type

2. You got the switch connections wrong. Run the black wire from the battery, through the Dean's connector to the center pole of the switch. Run another length of wire from one of the two poles either side of the switch body, then through the strain-relief block, to the fuse holder (if used), then down through the conduit tube. Run the red wire from the battery, through the Dean's connector, through the strain-relief block, then down the conduit tube. The way you have it in your drawing, you're paralleling across the switch terminals -- the switch will not work

M

[trout]

Kind of like this.

[matthewnimmo]

Sodering to the f*cking red dean's is a myth .... i managed to get one end done but i cannot for the f*ing life of me get the damn soder to stick to the other end of the dean connector ... filed the PoS, washed it, talked nice to it......nothing but burnt fingers/ a crabby wife/and 2 hours lost.

tempted to try some other connectors besides those unless someone has a suggestion.

[redboat219]

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/images/project_icons/how_to%20_solder_deans.WMV

Trick is flux.

[Albion]

Good point, are you using paste flux or acid?

Acid is only way to go, but be sure to clean after.

[Subculture]

I use deans connectors for all my battery connectors, bar the very tiniest models, excellent. Never used anything other than multicore solder, occasionally an extra dab of rosin flux to help wet the joint. The key is you need a decent soldering iron, minimum 40 watt (a good 40 watts at that), else the connector draws the heat too quickly.

I have never felt the need to use acid fluxes on electrical wiring, I save that for the brasswork.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sodering to the f*cking red dean's is a myth .... i managed to get one end done but i cannot for the f*ing life of me get the damn soder to stick to the other end of the dean connector ... filed the PoS, washed it, talked nice to it......nothing but burnt fingers/ a crabby wife/and 2 hours lost.

tempted to try some other connectors besides those unless someone has a suggestion.

What a puss! Not enough heat.

M

[matthewnimmo]

Im using 60 watt iron. And my solder has a rosin core and it is still a *****