GATO! (It has begun)

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    Moderator

    • Aug 2008
    • 13390

    #301
    Flat face aft, curved face forward. Duh!

    R.H turning to starboard, L.H turning on the port side.

    Sounds like you're almost there, Matt.

    M
    Who is John Galt?

    Comment

    • matthewnimmo
      Commander
      • Dec 2011
      • 271

      #302
      Sigh... So I got them on but one side is not as far on as the other and I really don't want to try to get those suckers off with that super glue. Will that mess with the performance any?
      ... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!

      Comment

      • matthewnimmo
        Commander
        • Dec 2011
        • 271

        #303
        Here are some shots of what im talking about. Im probably ok but figured id ask Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	94.1 KB
ID:	90999
        Attached Files
        ... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!

        Comment

        • crazygary
          Captain
          • Sep 2012
          • 610

          #304
          Hiya, Matt!!

          Can you see what's preventing the prop shaft from going in any further??
          You may be able to just shorten the motor end of the shaft a bit so the prop hub
          sits right up against the strut tube.

          The way it is, it might create a little unwanted cavitation!? Not sure how critical that is with a model sub,
          but probably not a good thing with a 1:1!!

          CG

          Comment

          • matthewnimmo
            Commander
            • Dec 2011
            • 271

            #305
            I was an idiot when i put that first one one with the CA. Got too much on it and thats were it stopped lol. I just need to know if im going to really notice the difference of what seems to be less than an 1/8" difference in placement of the props. Im hoping not. As if i have to take that out it wouldnt be the end of the world but probably an hours worth of work (knowing that things wont go my way lol). So, if i should be ok with it as it is. I wont waste my time trying to gain back that extra spacing
            ... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!

            Comment

            • crazygary
              Captain
              • Sep 2012
              • 610

              #306
              I have a CA de-bonding liquid that works really well!
              It does warn that it "may craze some plastics", but you can try it on a piece of scrap, first!

              It's made by "Zap", and called "Z-7 Debonder". Great for "adjusting" things made of white metal,
              but I haven't tried it on anything plastic yet! Softens the CA back to a "gel-like" state!

              Just a possibility!!

              CG

              Comment

              • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                Moderator

                • Aug 2008
                • 13390

                #307
                Don't sweat it, Matt. It'll work fine. Looks like hell, but will work fine. Gary has the simple fix if you're a slave to aesthetics.

                M
                Who is John Galt?

                Comment

                • alad61
                  Commander
                  • Jan 2012
                  • 476

                  #308
                  Sadly I have done similar though I use acetone, not the nail polish variety which i simply wicked via ann old paint brusharound the shaft and prop hub. to get the prop off the shaft once the ca is softened I placed the shaft in a timber block that is drilled to the shaft diameter then with the prop sitt I gently tap out the shaft with a small pin punch or brass rod. Than simply swish the extracted shaft in the acetone and clean with a fine green scouring pad.
                  Last edited by alad61; 04-04-2014, 07:55 PM.
                  Cheers,
                  Alec.


                  Reality is but a dream...
                  But to dream is a reality

                  Comment

                  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                    Moderator

                    • Aug 2008
                    • 13390

                    #309
                    CA breaks down in heat.

                    Take the shaft out of the model, put a pointed flame to the shaft, about three or four inches ahead of the hub. Eventually the heat is conducted through the shaft to the CA bond, which fails, and you slip off the propeller without damage or hurt feelings.

                    M
                    Who is John Galt?

                    Comment

                    • crazygary
                      Captain
                      • Sep 2012
                      • 610

                      #310
                      Watch ye don't be toastin' yer fangers!!!!
                      CG

                      Comment

                      • matthewnimmo
                        Commander
                        • Dec 2011
                        • 271

                        #311
                        So, I realized that I never showed any pics of her underbelly. The rust really showed up well IMO (or at least perfect for what i was wanting).
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1005.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	53.0 KB
ID:	91024Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1006.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	37.3 KB
ID:	91025

                        Smaller details taken care of. Brassed the small horn in the front and the bell in the back (I realized shortly after these pictures were taken that i forgot to remove the last piece of masking tape on the back light lol)
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1014.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	38.2 KB
ID:	91026Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1016.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	40.0 KB
ID:	91027

                        Now, let me show you what I did with the cylinder magnets. I was pleased with the disk magnets that I purchased earlier; but I wanted a stronger hold when it came to hooking up the current to my upper hull for the lights. This works out very well (later that night i coated the magnets with RTV for better hold).
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1024.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	33.6 KB
ID:	91028Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1025.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	32.9 KB
ID:	91029

                        Tonight, I get her wet! I hope she doesn't sink like a rock the minute i put her into the pool. I'll bring my weights and foam kit that i purchased from Sub-driver.com along with me. Along with some rubber bands, hobby knife, and various tools for adjustments (plus some swim trunks and a towel).
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1026.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	93.6 KB
ID:	91030


                        Tomorrow, I plan on putting together its travel box (yes tonight i'm taking the risk of it moving; but the pool is very close to my house ...so i'll secure it nice and tight in the SUV). I'm just hoping the 24hr gym lets me use the pool for my sub at midnight lol.


                        Enjoy!
                        ... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!

                        Comment

                        • matthewnimmo
                          Commander
                          • Dec 2011
                          • 271

                          #312
                          So, questions after this initial run.

                          1). I think my pump might be deAd? My last run i was trying to pump out enough of the water to gain back my positive buoyancy (never did happen) and i was hearing the thing start to putter out. I quickly stopped and got it out of the water but all i see when i engage the 'blow' is the green light on the pump but no pumping:(. Is it maybe just overheated? Or is it gameover for it?

                          2). Next, for a while i noticed the stupid thing leaning from side to side. Then i realized i should try the weights. After the weights its almost perfect. Still leans some to the right (keep in mind i havnt glued anything in yet)


                          3). So not quite sure were to exactly place my foam. I think im suppose to place it slightly below the waterline on the sides? I have more in the center and aft. None in the bow so far


                          4). So when i issue the flood balast tank. It slowly goes down which is nice. But right as the deck is breached by water the entire sub sinks all the way (now this isnt with diving actions or anything with movement just static). Is that normal? Or is something off? Thought this thing should never hit rock bottom with buoyancy?

                          5). So when i was done. I did notice some water in the battery part of the wtc. So ill have to figure out were im leaking there. The aft end seemed nice and dry

                          any help from anyone?
                          ... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!

                          Comment

                          • alad61
                            Commander
                            • Jan 2012
                            • 476

                            #313
                            Well I will be honest and say that the rust on the bottom hull came out better than I thought.

                            Good luck with the pool test. Don't forget a post mission report.
                            Cheers,
                            Alec.


                            Reality is but a dream...
                            But to dream is a reality

                            Comment

                            • alad61
                              Commander
                              • Jan 2012
                              • 476

                              #314
                              Ahh I see my post was a couple of minute late LOL
                              Cheers,
                              Alec.


                              Reality is but a dream...
                              But to dream is a reality

                              Comment

                              • alad61
                                Commander
                                • Jan 2012
                                • 476

                                #315
                                Hi Mathew.

                                Firstly get the boat trimmed with out the pump or power. Just simply roll the boat to flood the tank and lift it out to drain it. That way you save on batteries and the risk of having the radio to near the waters edge.


                                re - 1 the pump issues...How much battery power did you have when it was just the light? The fact that you have the green light means that there is some power getting to the board but maybe not enough to spin the pump. If you are trying to get the boat up to waterline with a too heavy hull, refer No 4, then you will be running the pump flat out trying to pull air in from the limited space within the sd and thus creating a vacuum which could explain the water in the battery compartment, refer No 5, and if you keep running the pump like that then you may well run the risk of a motor or board burnout. My advice is to get the boat to a submerged trim level where the sails gun decks are just awash and then blow the ballast and see what happens. Don't worry that it wo'nt submerge with half the main body of the conning tower above the water. Those two props will easily push her under the waves

                                Re - 2 & 3 Having trimmed two of these boats I can testify that the model does have an annoying tendancy to list. Keep as much weight at the center of gravity as you can. I reckon the conning tower changes whats called the meta-centric balance, so make sure that the weight you start with is at least equal to the overall weight of the sail and deck section. Then slowly add extra weight as need before adding any forward and aft, also remembering that too much weight forward or aft of your cog makes running the boat a little harder in turns and such. As for the foam it should be at the water line level. David has a very good rule of thumb with keep the lead low and the foam high. Any foam above the water line won't do anything except help or hinder your submerged trim. I have about 2 cubic inches of foam in mine under the deck just aft of the rear ballast bulk head for getting a level trim with a full ballast tank.

                                Re - 4 When the boat is submerging either sticaly or under power it's referred to as decks awash. Oh and for your survival around David a boat broaches the water it never breaches. Ask me how I know this...?? It certainly dosn't help with trimming if your weights aren't fixed and they shift about. Remember the center of gravity and listing thing!! if you are worried about fixing your weights dow the use things like blu-tac to hold them in. this boat is hard enough to trim with out adding to your woes. as for the sinking rock thing. Just add more foam. Be wartned that you will need many hours getting the submerged and surface trim right. As you have the weight and foam kit then your half way there you just need to tweek it some more...
                                Cheers,
                                Alec.


                                Reality is but a dream...
                                But to dream is a reality

                                Comment

                                Working...