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  • Subculture
    replied
    There is a cheaper alternative, which also gives you the best in brushless esc tech e.g. excellent start up smooth throttle response etc. Cost for controllers is typically between $5-20 depending on current and voltage range, but for scale sub use the lower range of cost is applicable. BLheli multicopter ESC's, they can be used in bidirectional mode, just has to be set-up in a cheap downloadable app. Once configured you don't have to touch them again.

    BLheliS firmware esc's tend to be cheaper than BLheli32, the former is open source with the latter closed and a license fee applies.BLheli32 offers some extra features, and uses the most advanced microcontrollers, but BLheliS is really good and more than adequate for sub use.
    Last edited by Subculture; 12-27-2019, 05:46 PM.

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  • SubHuman
    replied
    For now, and until we find a better solution, we're sticking with Mtroniks producs. Great ESC's, but pricey.

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  • Subculture
    replied
    I see you're going for a sensorless brushless rig, what esc are you going to use?

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  • Davidh
    replied
    Hello David,

    Thankyou for the feedback on your gearbox component suppliers. Once again I have a few more questions if you don’t mind.

    I am thinking of producing a cylinder design and going down the path that you have pioneered and prototyping all components in Renshape. I am confident I can do this. Then I will make silicon moulds and produce a few. I would eventually like to produce a single shaft and twin shaft endcap.

    I have been reading and re-reading anything you have written up about endcap design. I have particularly been looking at your drawings and diagrams. They tell me heaps.

    I have spent a couple of hours going over the suppliers websites that you referred to me, Thankyou. However here are the questions, they are rather specific, I hope you don’t mind...

    Do you have the actual parts numbers for the spur gears you use, the pinions on the motors and also the cup seals you employ?.

    I noticed that you had a bag of seals and oilite bushings, When I was looking at the various suppliers they only seemed to quote for a couple of seals or oilite bushings each. You obviously get a bulk order. May I ask what is a realistic price per unit both seal and bushing?

    It is hard for me to gauge how much friction should be imposed on the shaft by the cup seal. As you know I have built my own cylinders and have used seals but don’t know where that threshold is. It is probably something hard to explain. Do you have any wisdom on this?

    I have had to think through conversions with inches and millimeters.

    Hope you and Ellie had a nice Christmas.

    Thanks once again
    David H from Oz.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    I'm just about ready to use these Modular SubDriver bulkhead masters to give form to the rubber tools from which cast resin production parts will be produced. Some last-minute machining, putty work, wet-sanding, primer, and things are now good to go. Fine with me, I'm sick of this grunt work, I want to get back to proper model-building, damnit! I use them to mock-up a practical demonstrator -- this is the stage where you want to find faults, not after you've committed to production tooling!









    Last item on the MSD work list is this forward bulkhead used to give access to the forward dry space where the battery is stored. We wanted to provide the option of outfitting this bulkhead with two servos -- some customers would rather take the direct route with their linkages rather than run a long pushrod forward from the motor bulkhead mounted servos. Typical items needing r/c activation at the bow include bow plane, bow plane retract/deploy, anchor, and torpedo launching.













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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by MFR1964 View Post
    OK, that can be a solution, but if you get lipseals at both ends of your gear-enclosure, you can leave the gearbox as it is, much less work to alter the gearsetting, and keeping the stuff more standard for production.

    Manfred.
    That certainly is the preferred option, and I've already done just as you described with the 2.5" cylinder developed to run the 1/72 Type-9











    I could do that with the smaller brushed motor, but not possible with the larger brushless motor Bob and I have selected to be our basic install on the majority of our future MSD's.

    This is my first in-water gear splitter, done over 30 years ago:









    David

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    OK, that can be a solution, but if you get lipseals at both ends of your gear-enclosure, you can leave the gearbox as it is, much less work to alter the gearsetting, and keeping the stuff more standard for production.

    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by MFR1964 View Post
    David, question, so, running the motor in the wet, that will be no problem, but running your gears in the wet, are they contained inside a closure?, enlighten me!!

    Manfred.
    Good point, Manfred. You're alluding to the 'water-hammer' effect; the rapid squeezing of an incompressible fluid (water) between the teeth of the water immersed gears and the great lateral force it presents to the bearings that support the gears through their shafts. That hazard is real and is mitigated by a less than optimal meshing of the gears. In other words, I space the gears far enough apart to permit the water to squish out from the teeth without too much water-hammer occurring, but not so fare as to risk slippage and damaged gear teeth.

    David

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    David, question, so, running the motor in the wet, that will be no problem, but running your gears in the wet, are they contained inside a closure?, enlighten me!!

    Manfred.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied



















    Leave a comment:


  • HardRock
    replied
    Merry Christmas Mate. I'm out of hospital for the holidays, just in time for a bush fire! Hurrah! I hope that you both have a wonderful - and restful Christmas. Onward!

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
    Merry Christmas Mr. & Mrs. Merriman.
    Same.

    David & Ellie

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Merry Christmas Mr. & Mrs. Merriman.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Davidh View Post
    Hello David,

    Thanks for your prompt response.

    I should have put two and two together earlier, I had seen your silicon mould with all the pushrod inserts before Duh!....

    I do have another question. I have always found it information overload with websites when looking up the "Cup seal". I have heard them called "lip seals" and even "Y' seals and the German name "Simmering" I know what I am looking for but find there are so many seals that look the same, some for Hydraulic and other applications I have been lost on websites trying to find stuff only to find that maybe the name I have been assuming they were called was wrong.

    Anyway, to cut to the chase. Do you get your Cup seals from Mc- Master Carr as well?. I looked over their web page and couldn't find anything. IF i may ask what are the spec for yours?

    Sorry,

    Pain in the ass from Oz.
    David H
    You are not a pain in the ass! You are my student. You are my attentive and participating student. I very much enjoy passing on to guys like you what others have taught me.

    Lip/cup/wiper seals are all unsupported rubber units. Simmering type seals feature an imbedded tensioner that forces the lip of the seal up tight against the rotating shaft -- ideal with WTC's that see great pressure differentials between their interior and the water around them, which is the case with ballast sub-systems of the 'piston' type.

    Here's where I get mine, David: Precision Associates, Inc.; 3800 Washington Avenue North; Minneapolis, MN 55412 https://www.precisionassoc.com/ https://catalog.precisionassoc.com/c...tes-inc-u-cups

    And for Christ's Sake!!! Improve your scribing techniques, will ya!????.... Still looks like crap!

    David
    The Horrible

    Leave a comment:


  • SubHuman
    replied
    I go into seals in detail in this video, including the source for cup seals along with part numbers.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjuMFJOgMJU

    Leave a comment:

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