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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Subculture View Post
    Good stuff, You will need a small USB dongle/widget to program them, I use the Afro USB dongle which I got from Hobbyking. They only cost a couple of pounds. I've used Little bee esc's with blheli16 which are well regarded, can't give a recommendation on blheli32 yet, as I haven't used one. Plenty of choice on places like Banggood, Hobbyking etc.

    Anyway, I won't say any more on the subject as its rather hijacking Dave's original thread, perhaps move it to a dedicated post if you want more discussion.
    Highjack?! …. **** no! This is just the sort of good, authoritative stuff I want smeared all over this site, Andy. Keep pumping it out, pal.

    If someone steps on my toes, you can be assured they will be 'informed' of my displeasure, and suffer my wrath!

    David

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  • Subculture
    replied
    Good stuff, You will need a small USB dongle/widget to program them, I use the Afro USB dongle which I got from Hobbyking. They only cost a couple of pounds. I've used Little bee esc's with blheli16 which are well regarded, can't give a recommendation on blheli32 yet, as I haven't used one. Plenty of choice on places like Banggood, Hobbyking etc.

    Anyway, I won't say any more on the subject as its rather hijacking Dave's original thread, perhaps move it to a dedicated post if you want more discussion.
    Last edited by Subculture; 12-28-2019, 06:47 AM.

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  • SubHuman
    replied
    Andy, this is looking really good. I'm going to order some to play with this morning. Thanks for much for the info!

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  • Subculture
    replied
    With regards to brushless esc matching, I simply go by the current the motor is likely to draw in the install under peak and average loads. I rarely feel the need to go beyond 20A, which is good figure in terms of price top performance. However most hobby grade brushless motors can pop an esc under stall conditions. if this is a concern I would look at BLheli32 as they have a current limiting feature, which prevents the controller getting cooked if extreme loads are pulled either through a stall or a short circuit post output on the controller.

    Full set-up guide for BLheli32. Probably more than most want to know, but these esc's are very feature rich.

    Last edited by Subculture; 12-28-2019, 05:16 AM.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by george View Post
    Do these larger pieces that you are creating rubber molds of still also go into the pressure pot and because of their size and amount of rubber is their time in the pot longer? Is there any change in the amount of air pressure applied?
    Thanks for the continued lessons.
    Yes, the eventual tool will be filled with resin then placed into a pressure pot and taken to between 15-30 psig, just like any other pressure-cast item.

    David

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  • george
    replied
    Do these larger pieces that you are creating rubber molds of still also go into the pressure pot and because of their size and amount of rubber is their time in the pot longer? Is there any change in the amount of air pressure applied?
    Thanks for the continued lessons.
    Last edited by george; 12-28-2019, 01:34 AM.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    We’re familiar with the trick of bending a straight piece of plastic or soft metal rod, be it square, hexagonal, or other cross-section shape. You just pinch the rod between thumb and forefinger, and pull through with the other hand at an angle and so doing impart a constant radius curve to the rod; the more radical the angle, the tighter the radius. I wanted to fatten the flange on one of the masters and required a ‘circle’ of styrene strip that would be bonded to the existing flange.

    To keep the wide strip from twisting away from the desired curl I pulled it through a circular channel cut into a big wooden dowel. Three passes of the plastic strip and I had the circle required, which was then super glued to the flange, building it up to the desired thickness.

    Clamps held the circular piece of strip to the flange as I applied the glue. As the added strip was a bit bigger in diameter than needed, I trimmed it back on the lathe.









    I spent the afternoon getting the modular SubDriver bulkheads, and gear-splitter masters ready for tool making. Some putty work, sanding, and setting each master in a clay backing.





    The clay creating the separation plane between the eventual two halves of the rubber tool used to make the cast resin parts. The face of the masking clay dimpled to form a network of registration keys in the rubber that would insure proper alignment of the tool halves. Containments (flasks) of Lexan cylinder and masking tape would hold the catalyzed rubber as it cured from liquid to solid.
















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  • trout
    replied
    I looked at the BLheli escs, cost is great, just need to play with them. Bob did you match them with what motor?

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  • Subculture
    replied
    There is a cheaper alternative, which also gives you the best in brushless esc tech e.g. excellent start up smooth throttle response etc. Cost for controllers is typically between $5-20 depending on current and voltage range, but for scale sub use the lower range of cost is applicable. BLheli multicopter ESC's, they can be used in bidirectional mode, just has to be set-up in a cheap downloadable app. Once configured you don't have to touch them again.

    BLheliS firmware esc's tend to be cheaper than BLheli32, the former is open source with the latter closed and a license fee applies.BLheli32 offers some extra features, and uses the most advanced microcontrollers, but BLheliS is really good and more than adequate for sub use.
    Last edited by Subculture; 12-27-2019, 04:46 PM.

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  • SubHuman
    replied
    For now, and until we find a better solution, we're sticking with Mtroniks producs. Great ESC's, but pricey.

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  • Subculture
    replied
    I see you're going for a sensorless brushless rig, what esc are you going to use?

    Leave a comment:


  • Davidh
    replied
    Hello David,

    Thankyou for the feedback on your gearbox component suppliers. Once again I have a few more questions if you don’t mind.

    I am thinking of producing a cylinder design and going down the path that you have pioneered and prototyping all components in Renshape. I am confident I can do this. Then I will make silicon moulds and produce a few. I would eventually like to produce a single shaft and twin shaft endcap.

    I have been reading and re-reading anything you have written up about endcap design. I have particularly been looking at your drawings and diagrams. They tell me heaps.

    I have spent a couple of hours going over the suppliers websites that you referred to me, Thankyou. However here are the questions, they are rather specific, I hope you don’t mind...

    Do you have the actual parts numbers for the spur gears you use, the pinions on the motors and also the cup seals you employ?.

    I noticed that you had a bag of seals and oilite bushings, When I was looking at the various suppliers they only seemed to quote for a couple of seals or oilite bushings each. You obviously get a bulk order. May I ask what is a realistic price per unit both seal and bushing?

    It is hard for me to gauge how much friction should be imposed on the shaft by the cup seal. As you know I have built my own cylinders and have used seals but don’t know where that threshold is. It is probably something hard to explain. Do you have any wisdom on this?

    I have had to think through conversions with inches and millimeters.

    Hope you and Ellie had a nice Christmas.

    Thanks once again
    David H from Oz.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    I'm just about ready to use these Modular SubDriver bulkhead masters to give form to the rubber tools from which cast resin production parts will be produced. Some last-minute machining, putty work, wet-sanding, primer, and things are now good to go. Fine with me, I'm sick of this grunt work, I want to get back to proper model-building, damnit! I use them to mock-up a practical demonstrator -- this is the stage where you want to find faults, not after you've committed to production tooling!









    Last item on the MSD work list is this forward bulkhead used to give access to the forward dry space where the battery is stored. We wanted to provide the option of outfitting this bulkhead with two servos -- some customers would rather take the direct route with their linkages rather than run a long pushrod forward from the motor bulkhead mounted servos. Typical items needing r/c activation at the bow include bow plane, bow plane retract/deploy, anchor, and torpedo launching.













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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by MFR1964 View Post
    OK, that can be a solution, but if you get lipseals at both ends of your gear-enclosure, you can leave the gearbox as it is, much less work to alter the gearsetting, and keeping the stuff more standard for production.

    Manfred.
    That certainly is the preferred option, and I've already done just as you described with the 2.5" cylinder developed to run the 1/72 Type-9











    I could do that with the smaller brushed motor, but not possible with the larger brushless motor Bob and I have selected to be our basic install on the majority of our future MSD's.

    This is my first in-water gear splitter, done over 30 years ago:









    David

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    OK, that can be a solution, but if you get lipseals at both ends of your gear-enclosure, you can leave the gearbox as it is, much less work to alter the gearsetting, and keeping the stuff more standard for production.

    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:

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