today's work

[Timothy L]

Got it - thanks Dave.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Dave - this video is very helpful. Once again - thank you. What ventilation is available in your work area for 2K spraying? In my case I can either spray my 2K clear coat on my repainted 212A now, in my unventilated basement, - or wait until warm weather and use a ventilated garage. Does the toxic aspect of 2K “hang” in the air or quickly dissipate in your work area? I will be using a proper mask. Again, videos like this are so helpful. Thank you.

Hey, Tim, I relish working with guys like you: you actually finish projects and ask the right questions (unlike some guys on this forum who have, after decades, not finished a God Damned Thing!!!!).

Polyurethan two-part paint is a killer-diller. Active ventilation a must! I simply close the shop-house door and open the shop-outside door, set up a fan, done a charcoal mask, and I'm good. Run a dryer-duct (one of them accordion looking conduits) from your basement to an upstairs window/door. Do this when the wife is out shopping or something. When she gets back have several cans of Raid laying around, and tell her you were chasing cockroaches or something... should keep you off the couch that night.

[Timothy L]

https://youtu.be/yCjwx3cq0sU

Dave - this video is very helpful. Once again - thank you. What ventilation is available in your work area for 2K spraying? In my case I can either spray my 2K clear coat on my repainted 212A now, in my unventilated basement, - or wait until warm weather and use a ventilated garage. Does the toxic aspect of 2K “hang” in the air or quickly dissipate in your work area? I will be using a proper mask. Again, videos like this are so helpful. Thank you.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

https://youtu.be/GbD6-ITqpjE

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

2K polyurethane paint on styrene kits?

Why not? Goes over primer as well.

[redboat219]

https://youtu.be/yCjwx3cq0sU

2K polyurethane paint on styrene kits?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

What are those stubby cylinders at the ends of the launch tube in the 4th, 5th and 6th photo from the last?

An early version of the launcher that made use of a pneumatic piston to actuate the breech-block. Before I standardized on the locking-ball and spring mechanism to move the breech-block.

[redboat219]

What are those stubby cylinders at the ends of the launch tube in the 4th, 5th and 6th photo from the last?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,
will you install weapons to your subsequent works? Looking forward to that.... The mechanism you design was amazing in that age!

Already done-that-got-the-T-shirt.

[Kawasaki Monota]

David,
will you install weapons to your subsequent works? Looking forward to that.... The mechanism you design was amazing in that age!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

https://youtu.be/yCjwx3cq0sU

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[Subculture]

I hate the striations found in filament produced models -- so much work to grind them back and fill.

Some things help a lot.

1. Print in fine lines e.g. 0.12mm or finer.
2. Use ABS or ASA rather than PLA or PETG, much easier to sand
3. Newer printers like the Core XY seem to print much finer, and as they're much faster than the older bed slingers, they get the job done fairly quickly even with fine line printing.
4. Print the model in separate parts so each piece can be orientated optimally to reduce stepping artifacts in the print.

[Albacore 569]

Maybe collaborate with somebody can print the masters in SLA resin and pre-cut into sections ready for the molds.

Yes. I have a resin printer, and its table is within the size of the parts needing printing. Why I went to resin straight away. No regrets. If you want, I have the software, it could be adapted & resliced.

But it is Gantu's program and up to him. I agreed not to share with anyone without his permission. In any case I think it's too late at this juncture now to redo the hull again. One can over polish the cannon ball and waste time.