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Your infirmities and point-specific ailments: you face them head-on, and without flinching. Magnificent. Keep up the good fight, pal. You're showing us how.
And, when that DAY arrives, let the world recognize your final trip to the grave; identified by defiant earthen claw marks between death-bed and hole-in-the-ground... hopefully, many enjoyable years preceding 'that day'. Keep swinging, pal. Fill that room of yours to the ceiling with good work.
David
Thank you for the kind words David!
You are an inspiration for all of us on this forum, and I for one appreciate all the help and advice you have given me over the years.
Your Alfa boat is very impressive and so exact to scale. Your finish work ,well there are no words to describe the attention detail that you do..
I finally got my Alfa water tested and put a rattle can finish on it. The only reason I use this type of simple finish is because of the constant and worsening Macular Degeneration that I am dealing with now. I am going to try and use my magnifiers and see if I can do some addition scale type work on what I have. I am going back over and looking at your work and try to improve the more scale look..
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."
Hey, Rob. Looks great.
Clearly, Firemen are made of tough stuff.
Your infirmities and point-specific ailments: you face them head-on, and without flinching. Magnificent. Keep up the good fight, pal. You're showing us how.
And, when that DAY arrives, let the world recognize your final trip to the grave; identified by defiant earthen claw marks between death-bed and hole-in-the-ground... hopefully, many enjoyable years preceding 'that day'. Keep swinging, pal. Fill that room of yours to the ceiling with good work.
Your Alfa boat is very impressive and so exact to scale. Your finish work ,well there are no words to describe the attention detail that you do..
I finally got my Alfa water tested and put a rattle can finish on it. The only reason I use this type of simple finish is because of the constant and worsening Macular Degeneration that I am dealing with now. I am going to try and use my magnifiers and see if I can do some addition scale type work on what I have. I am going back over and looking at your work and try to improve the more scale look..
I was with David and Jake at Cabin Fever. Unless something else comes up Carol and I plan going back to Cabin Fever in 2026 as well. Nice event to go to.
Enough. I'll take it back home with me, work up a new cylinder and populate it with the gear from the cracked unit. You've ****ed that old dog enough, Bill.
Originally posted by redboat219
I know you're busy right now but when can we see updates with the Italian CB20 and British X-Craft?
Just as soon as I get back from the Groton event I'll be working on those as well as other 'small' r/c submarines -- have to get ready for next years Cabin Fever event. I went to my first last year, along with Jake, and had a ball. Here's a video from that three day get-together:
After studying those pictures for way too long, I still have questions.
Are these little tools are just various sizes of brass tube with a "handle" soldered on? Do you use them as shown to scrape off the high parts in the groove, or do you wrap sandpaper around them to sand down the high parts?
In order to get the angle shown to insert the control surface, either the inner bearing hole is oversized, or the surface the hole is in is very thin. Neither seems like a good idea for good alignment and long term wear. So how do you get the angle to insert the control surface? Is the outer pin taking care of the bearing loads and the inner hole not important? Or am I just trying to over-engineer this?
The final conformal shaping of the 'groove' within the trailing edge of the stabilizer is done by wrapping the leading edge of the control surface, installing it, and rotating it to force the sandwiched sandpaper to cut the grooved high-spots down to produce a non-interference fit between stabilizer and control surface, like so:
I'm able to insert the control surface operating shaft at that extreme angle (to clear the outboard bearing foundation at the end of the stabilizers trailing edge) because the bore of the hole to pass it is conical, not cylindrical of form. This insures a non-slop fit of the installed control surface, yet permits the off-angle passing of the operating shaft during insertion or removal. The yoke openings are over-sized to permit their integration with the inboard end of the operating shafts -- the slop taken out when the set-screw is driven home to make fast the control surfaces to the yoke.
After studying those pictures for way too long, I still have questions.
Are these little tools are just various sizes of brass tube with a "handle" soldered on? Do you use them as shown to scrape off the high parts in the groove, or do you wrap sandpaper around them to sand down the high parts?
In order to get the angle shown to insert the control surface, either the inner bearing hole is oversized, or the surface the hole is in is very thin. Neither seems like a good idea for good alignment and long term wear. So how do you get the angle to insert the control surface? Is the outer pin taking care of the bearing loads and the inner hole not important? Or am I just trying to over-engineer this?
Well, lets finish the job: spiked blue hair, a ring in its nose, metal studs through it's eyelids, weather it with rainbows, and name it the KAREN class.
Yeah!... that'll work.
(now to dig the puke out from between the keyboard keys... thanks).
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