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  • DrSchmidt
    replied
    Same as for the Forell:



    In case I feel the need to make GRP molds again, I guess it would be for HMS Holland.

    Cheers Andreas

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  • redboat219
    replied
    How about a WW2 Italian CB class? Click image for larger version

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  • DrSchmidt
    replied
    If so, then in 1/72 scale:

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by DrSchmidt
    That's because we had good spies who stole many ideas from the French, e.g. the two-hull design ;-)

    And: There was a predecessor to the U1. The Krupp Forelle, an experimental midget submarine that was sold to Russia:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_submarine_Forel
    Andreas,

    This looks like another possible submarine build to me!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219

    Like something out of the 1930s Flash Gordon movie.
    Indeed. All it needs is to belch sparks from the ass end, overlay some of Wagner's Black Swan, add in the bass tone of a big ship-whistle and you have the opening credits.

    NERD!!!!

    Click image for larger version

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Like something out of the 1930s Flash Gordon movie.

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  • DrSchmidt
    replied
    That's because we had good spies who stole many ideas from the French, e.g. the two-hull design ;-)

    And: There was a predecessor to the U1. The Krupp Forelle, an experimental midget submarine that was sold to Russia:

    Last edited by DrSchmidt; 01-23-2025, 09:48 AM.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by DrSchmidt
    With respect to ballast tank size, keep in mind, that the ventilation masts and some mechanical gimmicks will also increase the above-surface volume.

    I underestimated those contributions substantially with my big U1 and a not optimum waterline was the result.
    Good tip, Andreas. I've already upped the ballast tank volume by about 10% of my initial finding. Since I have yet to cut the cylinders (one for you, one for me) to length, I'll add another half-inch to the length of the ballast tank section. That should cover masts, bridge do-dads, the ventilators, and deck fittings.

    Better too much ballast tank than too little!

    Man! I'm starting to appreciate how, from the start, your navy got the submarine structure and systems right with the first combatant. You German's! We all advanced our own fleets on the back of yours. I hope acknowledgment of that fact is never lost to history.

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  • DrSchmidt
    replied
    With respect to ballast tank size, keep in mind, that the ventilation masts and some mechanical gimmicks will also increase the above-surface volume.

    I underestimated those contributions substantially with my big U1 and a not optimum waterline was the result.

    Leave a comment:


  • redboat219
    replied
    Drive motor(s) inside or outside?

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219
    Yup, nothing beats actual measurements.

    But did I get my computation close to needed tank length for the U1 if you use a 2" SD?

    A 2.5" SD would only require a 3" length of BT.
    Yeah. You pretty much hit it on the nose going the math route, Romel.

    And yes, for ease of populating it with the devices and what-nots, it would have been easier to go with the 2.5" cylinder, but at that diameter there would have been precious little annular space in which to cram the foam needed to negate the weight of the fixed ballast weight down in the keel. (that little Type-21, even with the 2" WTC had little room between cylinder and hull for such foam, and as a consequence static roll stability is ... to be kind... 'marginal').

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Yup, nothing beats actual measurements.

    But did I get my computation close to needed tank length for the U1 if you use a 2" SD?

    A 2.5" SD would only require a 3" length of BT.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219

    So you're using a direct method to measure how long your ballast tank will be given the volume from weighing the above water parts (1gm of water= 1cc).

    you could calculate it using this

    Height of cylinder (or length) = V
    Value of Pi × r²

    V= volume
    Pi= 3.14159
    r = radius of cylinder

    example:
    If you have a 2" dia cylinder that requires a ballast tank volume of say 250ml (15.25 in³ )


    15.25 = 4.85 in
    3.14159 x 1


    Your BT needs to be 5 inches long

    or here's a calculator you can use
    https://www.omnicalculator.com/math/height-of-cylinder
    Yes. I could also put a broom handle up my ass so I could sweep the joint down as I attended to other tasks throughout the house.

    But I won't.

    Math is not my strong suit.

    David

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
























    So you're using a direct method to measure how long your ballast tank will be given the volume from weighing the above water parts (1gm of water= 1cc).

    you could calculate it using this

    Height of cylinder (or length) = V
    Value of Pi × r²

    V= volume
    Pi= 3.14159
    r = radius of cylinder squared


    If you are holding a 2" dia cylinder that requires a ballast tank volume 8 oz. (14.4 in³ )


    14.4
    3.14159 x 1

    =4.5 in

    Your BT needs to be 5 inches long

    or here's a calculator you can use
    Wondering how to find a cylinder's height or what's a cylinder formula's height? Our height of a cylinder calculator answers these questions and more.
    Last edited by redboat219; 01-22-2025, 09:03 PM.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied


























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