today's work

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Almost..



Allmmoosstt..



Allllmmmmoooosssstttt........



DONE!



FINALLY!! Hall-Mark this puppy, box it up, and get this thing OUTAHERE!!!!

[Ken_NJ]

I was with David and Jake at Cabin Fever. Unless something else comes up Carol and I plan going back to Cabin Fever in 2026 as well. Nice event to go to.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Enough. I'll take it back home with me, work up a new cylinder and populate it with the gear from the cracked unit. You've ****ed that old dog enough, Bill.

I know you're busy right now but when can we see updates with the Italian CB20 and British X-Craft?

Just as soon as I get back from the Groton event I'll be working on those as well as other 'small' r/c submarines -- have to get ready for next years Cabin Fever event. I went to my first last year, along with Jake, and had a ball. Here's a video from that three day get-together:

https://youtu.be/5Hh1DEixDQM zz0.9auu2ei9y4vzz

[redboat219]

I know you're busy right now but when can we see updates with the Italian CB20 and British X-Craft?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

After studying those pictures for way too long, I still have questions.

Are these little tools are just various sizes of brass tube with a "handle" soldered on? Do you use them as shown to scrape off the high parts in the groove, or do you wrap sandpaper around them to sand down the high parts?



In order to get the angle shown to insert the control surface, either the inner bearing hole is oversized, or the surface the hole is in is very thin. Neither seems like a good idea for good alignment and long term wear. So how do you get the angle to insert the control surface? Is the outer pin taking care of the bearing loads and the inner hole not important? Or am I just trying to over-engineer this?

The final conformal shaping of the 'groove' within the trailing edge of the stabilizer is done by wrapping the leading edge of the control surface, installing it, and rotating it to force the sandwiched sandpaper to cut the grooved high-spots down to produce a non-interference fit between stabilizer and control surface, like so:







I'm able to insert the control surface operating shaft at that extreme angle (to clear the outboard bearing foundation at the end of the stabilizers trailing edge) because the bore of the hole to pass it is conical, not cylindrical of form. This insures a non-slop fit of the installed control surface, yet permits the off-angle passing of the operating shaft during insertion or removal. The yoke openings are over-sized to permit their integration with the inboard end of the operating shafts -- the slop taken out when the set-screw is driven home to make fast the control surfaces to the yoke.

[RCENGR]

After studying those pictures for way too long, I still have questions.

Are these little tools are just various sizes of brass tube with a "handle" soldered on? Do you use them as shown to scrape off the high parts in the groove, or do you wrap sandpaper around them to sand down the high parts?



In order to get the angle shown to insert the control surface, either the inner bearing hole is oversized, or the surface the hole is in is very thin. Neither seems like a good idea for good alignment and long term wear. So how do you get the angle to insert the control surface? Is the outer pin taking care of the bearing loads and the inner hole not important? Or am I just trying to over-engineer this?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Green lipstick on a shark!

Now that you mention it. ...EEWWWWOOOO!

Well, lets finish the job: spiked blue hair, a ring in its nose, metal studs through it's eyelids, weather it with rainbows, and name it the KAREN class.

Yeah!... that'll work.

(now to dig the puke out from between the keyboard keys... thanks).

David

[Scott T]

Green lipstick on a shark!

[Das Boot]

Thank you, sir. Yes, the final well flattened clear coats go on today and tomorrow. From there I integrate all running gear, control surfaces, and WTC. I'm so sick-and-tired of this project and look forward to some projects I want to get ready for Cabin Fever.

After this project, what’s new on the drawing board? Can you give us a hint what your next boat will be?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Very nice.....another masterpiece. Will the sub-surface part get a matte clear coat as finish. Looks a bit too shiny....

Thank you, sir. Yes, the final well flattened clear coats go on today and tomorrow. From there I integrate all running gear, control surfaces, and WTC. I'm so sick-and-tired of this project and look forward to some projects I want to get ready for Cabin Fever.

[DrSchmidt]

Very nice.....another masterpiece. Will the sub-surface part get a matte clear coat as finish. Looks a bit too shiny....

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]