today's work

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Dave,
This thread is currently 136 pages of modeling awesomeness. Every page has a plethora of information and correctly placed photos. Excellent work showing us how it's done.
Hope to meet up again in the fall and run some boats together.
Darrin

Darrin,

I don't often fawn in public over a complimentary post. But, here I go: Such nice comments -- coming from a true, well accomplished, and talented model-builder as yourself -- is most gratifying. Thank you sir.

(where do I send the check?....)

**** yeah! I'll be making both the Groton and the Red-Clay events. You?

David
Who Now Can't get his over-inflated Head Through The Door

[ffr2608]

Dave,
This thread is currently 136 pages of modeling awesomeness. Every page has a plethora of information and correctly placed photos. Excellent work showing us how it's done.
Hope to meet up again in the fall and run some boats together.
Darrin

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[trout]

Thank you! I do the same and I like seeing how you overcome this.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, I see in the last few photos that you had some orange peel from a clear coat (I am guessing). How do you correct it? Do you sand it out completely or just paint over it? Every once in awhile I get that from rattle cans and it ****es me off. One time it works and then it doesn't.

Orange peel in this case the consequence of too little extender and thinner -- the spray started to congeal in the air on its way to the works surface. This was a 'protective barrier' clear coat, preparing the surface for water-slide decals, masked off and painted panel outlines, and dry-transfer rub-on markings; all that followed by another layer of streaking, running rust, and some oil-canning effect.

Since there is yet to be applied a well flattened clear coat later, it was enough to knock down most of the orange peel with a good wet sanding with #600 grit sand paper. That last coat of clear will be well reduced in viscosity and shot at a lower pressure; with the nozzel very up-close-and-personal to the work -- that coat will go down super wet.

[trout]

David, I see in the last few photos that you had some orange peel from a clear coat (I am guessing). How do you correct it? Do you sand it out completely or just paint over it? Every once in awhile I get that from rattle cans and it ****es me off. One time it works and then it doesn't.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

So Dave, the original kit model is not correct in Scale length? Good catch and praising your integrity to scale.

No 'length correction' here -- I'm not that anal about scale! However, this 1/96 3D printed Type-21 had to be chopped up at the stern as the tail would be hollow cast from resin in a three-piece rubber tool. The forward pieces (once assembled) would be used to make a proper mother-glove tool which in turn would be used to create proper GRP hulls. One for me, and another for Joe Hoffman, who initiated this project. The sail will have its own tool from which thin-walled parts would be laid up.

The final tail piece has all the goodies, so had to be tough and hollow. Two propeller shafts, stern planes and linkage, and rudder and its linkage. Tight fit in a small model. The bow planes up front and WTC will be a snap.

[Albacore 569]

So Dave, the original kit model is not correct in Scale length? Good catch and praising your integrity to scale.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[JHapprich]

That should be a kit from Oto Gerza/Czech. rcsubs.cz

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK thanks. The one that I have. It's like Skip's Marlin. Styrene with no details on the styrene. Will require lots and lots of scribing to make it look like something more realistic, weld lines etc. Although it has the photo etch which I have not work with before. I think Bob said the kit is from someone in Czech area or someplace around there in Europe? It would be a real challenge to make something of it. Should I accept the challenge in your opinion, or not? If I did it would be on the shelf for a very long while until I finish many many other projects that I have lined up.

It would be a departure from you usual plank-on-frame work, Ken. Do it for the change of pace; one of those shelf-queens you never finish but play with occasionally. You did the MARLIN, so you know what horrors await you with that kit. I would double check the scale of the PE parts before getting too invested though.

David