Tom Chalfant - Bronco Type XXIII

[trout]

Working on some weathering.
Did a little salt weathering. I had a very dark gray base layer down. Then after it was dried put some water in areas that I wanted the paint to be chipping off. Sprinkled salt on those areas and let that dry. Then sprayed a top coat over it.

Then rub the salt off.

Used the same technique on the wood planking braces.

Painted a mixture of black and brown to simulate carbolineum (Reference used http://www.rokket.biz/modelsweb/rokket/u557/paint.shtml - finally found the source)
A little grunge between the planks.

The next step will be a dry brushing of a lighter brown on the edges and tread path. Then some rusting between the planks.

[trout]

Did some research last night and I found that there is just not a bunch of photos and of those out there, there are a differences between them.
Look at this photo, the rungs on the front are not square, they are arched (look at the shadow).

This next one I love the wear and tare on the paint, but you will notice it is on the conning tower only, not the hull (a little at the bow - some streaks)). Apparently they used a different paint on the hull. Also notice the black band at the top of the conning tower, I thought it was the paint worn off, but I found another (different) with a similar paint job.

This next one is the other boat that had the black near the top. It is docked with the aft end down, but it shows some of the Merriman effect along the waterline. The rungs on this one are square. It does not show chipping on the conning tower, but a bit of rust and fading. The antennae is attached to the side (like Manfred has shown).


Anyways these are some of the observations so far....very interesting (to me at least).

[trout]

Wow, I am confused which is leading to stagnation. I'll explain more in a little bit.
Still pouring over the few pictures I can find. Looking at this conning tower you do not see chipping, but subtle shades and highlights. What grey is rust is unknown.

So I keep on swinging. Tested the salt mottling for the hull.
Sprayed the surface with water and sprinkled salt on it. Let it dry.

Sprayed a lighter color (in this case Panzer Grey)

Then rubbed off the salt. Second photo is with a flash to show it up better.

So that just does not match the hulls on the Type XXIII that I have seen.

If anyone has a suggestion, I need your help.
The salt effect can be used on the deck, like the wood walkway frame and other areas like below.

So that is my quandary, how to give a bit of weathering to the hull below the surface for these subs.
Moving on to other topic, I put vents in the bollard. Now I do not like the hole being on top. I might put a slot on the inside so that the openings are facing each other.

The slots will be hidden also by darker paint representing the bollard ware and tare by the ropes attached to it. Unless someone can show me the top of the bollard is painted black. I do not know why I am stressing on this as much as I am, but I do not feel like I have a good handle on how to complete this sub. Here is a little more added to the CT.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You're stressing on this because you have a genetic flaw. It's called AMS. No cure. Suck it up; deal with it detail-boy!

try doing it with tooth-paste. Put down the base color, let dry. Thin some tooth past with water, and with a stiff brush streak and stipple a bit of the wet tooth-paste on the hull, let dry. Apply a bleached out base color, let dry. Scrub the hull with a wet rag to remove the tooth-paste mask. Wa-La!

You're taking me back to school, Tom. Great stuff. Between you and Manfred I'm learning a lot.

M

[modelnut]

Thank you, M!

I have never read that technique stated so succinctly. And in small words so the rest of us can understand.

- Leelan

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thank you, Leelan. My little contribution. Others taught me. I pass it on. That's what this place is all about.

M

[crazygary]

Hi, Tom!!

That salt-weathering technique is pretty sweet!!
May have to give it a go with my little Gato!!?

[trout]

Thank you David. I do not think of myself as a detail freak especially when I see Manfred's work. I just like the look of this sub and want to do it some justice. However my lazy side or desire to tackle a different challenge tries to take over. Then once you start detailing, things just start to gnaw at me. I am going to use the toothpaste pull technique with a twist. The paint that is laid down now is a flat paint, I will spray a satin finish over the streaked toothpaste then slight additions with oil. We shall see!

Gary, I did use the salt technique on the Gato. It was used on the conning tower and above the waterline along the sides. Below the waterline I used the toothpaste technique in a stippled pattern. Just keep scale in mind. The salt might look o.k., in your 144th scale, but as I am sure you are aware, experiment on some scratch material first. Thank you, I am glad you like the technique.

[alad61]

Good run through on the paint techniques Tom and informative to boot. I have yet to try the salt technique, just never been sure with it at scale...

Ok I agree Manfred is indeed an awe inspiring detail freak but admit it, you are close to borderline 'freak' I mean you put working running lights on your Gato... But who am I to judge with my scratch built Nautilus salon and officers loung for my 1/350 STTMP refit Enterprise, right down to an in scale image of the original Enterprise as seen on the wall. And the scratch built back cockpit wall on my 1/24th Space 1999 eagle. I guess we are all in our own way detail nuts/freaks who like to see what other such freaks do.

so keep going so I can see what you do...:)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

hear, hear!!

[trout]

Make one of your own says Manfred......See that is the problem once you begin to compare to what the kit offers and the plans of the original, you see the discrepancy.
Here is the plans:

The periscope gently tapers to this itty bitty scope.
Took 1/16th inch brass wire and turned it. Made the frame portion out of plastic. Mine is not perfect, but I am going to say good enough.

I will prime, clean up, and add bolts or dots to the frame to represent bolts. Now I need to re-taper the plastic scope and I am not sure how. Never did this before.

[MFR1964]

Tom,

I think your drawing is not accurate enough, first you've got the stainless steel mast, the conical shape thingy, a small piece straight and finally the bigger part with the lens.
If i where you i'll cut off the Bronco part just above the conical shape, drill a hole inside, and insert your creation into the conical part, this will get you as close as you can get.



As a example, this is my scope of the type VII, forget the wires, but you can get the idea of the right shape, go ahead sir!!!!


Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You two are nuts!!!!

M

[trout]

Manfred,
I used Von Orignal Zum Modell type XXIII drawing on Page 85. Cleaned it up (shown in my earlier post). Enlarged it to match the diameter of the Bronco kit and used that as my template. That being said, your suggestion is duly noted and I will use. I can make a batch of metal glaze and manually make the taper. Brilliant, again, sir! Thank you Manfred. Sometimes the simple answer is the best.
Peace,
tom

[ffr2608]

My technique may work for this application. Use a small piece of gray shipping foam. (the soft type from electronics boxes) Lightly wet the foam with a mixture of black, silver and rust enamel and It will give you nice chipping. Easy to overdo as seen here but still effective. If I put too much on, I actually sand it off after it dries for another layer of weathering.

D