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Chopped the cone off and drilled a hole to put my modification in.
I was so focused on getting it straight that i did not notice it got sucked in a bit. So my periscope will not be as tall as it should be. Here you can see how thick the cone is compared to the drawing.
Once the CA has set, I will mix up some glaze and create a new cone.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Mark, if your serious, when I make a mold of my top, I will cast one for you.
So how crazy can we get? How about I put tiny bolts around the scope glass? That would be crazy!
I heard that if you stretch a sprue it retains the shape it was in. Sooooooo let us try that! Shaped a hex shape in a piece of sprue.
Then heated it (this is a second piece the first one I got too hot - it does take on a new shape when you do that, a blob)
So you cannot see the details, eh? Maybe this will help.
For the most part there is a shape maintained. Still not sure you can see it.
That excersise brings me to trying to cut little bolts, which did not cut cleanly. I could pre-drill the holes, sand them flat and affix them or I could step away from the insanity and concede that Manfred is the detail maniac. I concede.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Tom, I noticed that in the fittings kit comes a periscope. It says that its for the Up Periscope system. I dont know what that little scope has to do with the Up Periscope system but Im sure I could use it. Its close enough for me. Thanks
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
WHAT??!!! Your supposed to be Blazing a trail for me and these other unfortunates, informing us of any and all possible avenues and adventures. Forewarning us of any pitfalls!....................Thats OK, ive been looking over your shoulder..................cheating
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
You want pitfalls? Well have you come to the right place!
I wanted to paint the hull with some weathering, but these little subs had short missions compared to the bigger subs that went out for months at a time. The few pictures I found, even less that were clear, these subs did not seem to have a lot of barnacle growth and seaweed stuff on them. I needed something. So I played with an idea of using flat and satin clear coating to come up with subtle weathering. David mentioned watering down toothpaste and using that and combine that with different sheen it seemed like a good combo.
Here is toothpaste watered down to a syrupy consistency.
Brushed it on the hull in a downward stroke using a flat coarse bristle brush. Photos are upside down because the sub was upside down.
Then let this dry. Coated it with the satin clear. Then scrubbed off the toothpaste.
Interesting, but not what I was envisioning. In fact, it looks Gluteus Maximus ugly. Since it was gruesome, why not try to learn something from it? Or see if it can be turned into an effect that might work.
I took some 0000 steel wool and scrubbed down the hull to remove the silvering and stark contrast.
Now this has promise. Although I have my concerns that when/if I top coat it, it will stay there. Now to ponder on what to add to this......
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Maybe you should have used "Arm & Hammer Baking soda with Peroxide" Toothpaste. LOL........Get it? Peroxide........this submarine was supposed to run on Peroxide..........Get It? I just slay me!LOL
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
By the way, as to the periscope thing, why not just take the periscope that comes with the model and glue a blob of something out on the tip end and then shape that. The scope Dave supplys is too short. Youd have to cut the factory one and glue his on which looks like it needs a little shaping itself.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
Tom have you thought of using the old dry brushing technique intermixed with pastel rubs and washes for your weathering. Also you can use an old 1or 1-1/2inch brush. Not an artist brush but a more trade orientated type or a sea sponge from those art supplies stores. Start with your base coat colour mixed with white or a very very light grey 70/30 is a good start then add more light colour as required. If you keep the brush a bit wetter you can tun the model upside down and gently brush upwards from your edge or waterline just using the edge of the brush so that you get a streaked effect. That same or similar effect can be done with inks or washes that have been thinned as required. Another favourite medium is pastels applied via brush, sponge, q-tips, finger or directly and then worked in. The most important thing to remember is that anything other than a flat, mat or low sheen finish and the above methods don't work as well. Also pastels need to be applied with a heavier hand as the loose intensity when over coated with clears so I tend to apply them as a final system. Below are two videos I did on pastels and washes when I painted up my static Disney Nautilus.
If your finish is not as subdued as you wanted simply mist over a thin coat of the base colour with your air brush in a random manner. If no airbrush is handy then the base colour thinned down can be dabbed/stipples with a lint free cloth.
Cheers,
Alec. Reality is but a dream...
But to dream is a reality
Alec,
That will probably be the next move on the hull. Thank you!
I thought the floor and grating was metal like this person did
But, as I was studying this photo, I noticed wood grain (circled in red) on the floor including the grating. It makes sense since they stand on this deck during winter conditions and the wood offers a bit of an insulation or would not conduct the heat from the feet like steel would.
Working on bits and pieces. Here is a storage compartment and a hatch.
Here is the storage just placed in and not affixed yet. Need to paint and detail first.
Hatch placed in for photo.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
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