Bronco Type XXIII in 1/35th scale

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, there is something about this boat that, well, made me get two of them.. What can I say, I like them!

When I first saw you make your hull cut, I wasn't sure how clean and well fitting the two pieces would end up being. They look to fit together now like they were made that way to begin with! The problem with your technique is, can the average guy (which includes me) duplicate your efforts in that part of the conversion.. Without it looking like a hack job.

I am off to San Francisco for a business trip tomorrow morning. Will be gone for a week.. When I get back, your boat will have probably completed its sea trials!

Next step will be a torpedo launcher and functional torpedoes.

What about retractable masts? Seems like your sub-driver tube would block the scope and schnorkel from fully retracting. I think they would need to lower down into the ballast tank region of the tube. Maybe Manfred will attempt to make the masts functional on his..

Steve

Yes, the most daunting aspect of my approach with this model is the waterline cut. It requires careful set-up, a flat surface, use of a waterline marking tool, and a special tool holding fixture to insure a uniform of height cut along the longitudinal break. Not many are up to it. Then again, r/c model submarining is not for every one. This is a game for the elites in this craft, after all. This is NOT an entry-level activity.

Indeed, I'm in a rush to get this thing into the water, for two reasons: First, it will cheese Manfred off to no end. And, second, because I have other work piled up and I got to get too. Tonight I cast up the foundations and trial set of control surfaces. I soldered together the three bell-cranks and got the stern plans, bow planes and rudder to swing freely -- I was very happy to find just enough room in the upper rudder support arm to house the standard type bell-crank I made for the rudder. It's lever arm is very short, yes, but equates to the first hole of the typical servo horn (bell-crank), so there won't be any binding as a result of servo over-throw. And I get about 35-degree of deflection from the rudder, left and right.

Pictures tomorrow, I'm too tired to fool with it tonight ... er .... this morning.

No retractable scope. The SD gets in the way, as you point out. And the scale snorkel is right over the practical SAS snorkel, so that thing is non-retractable.

I can only imagine what Manfred will come up with! I'm sliding over to his side to see what he's up to with his Type-23.

Night.

David

[Kazzer]

David,
......The problem with your technique is, can the average guy (which includes me) duplicate your efforts in that part of the conversion.. Without it looking like a hack job.

Steve

It isn't that hard to do. and it can and probably will look like a hack job. but you can easily repair the edges with CA and baking soda.
Once you have one edge repaired, it's easy to mask it off, wax it and then use that to mold the other edge. A pain? Yes, but a little patience and it can look pretty neat.

[Albion]

My previous boats either had a pre cut hull or break in a different way, so When I cut my M1 it was pretty daunting, and the hull did spring quite a bit (centreline next time),, it was acceptable, and with some work I've achieved a more than passable join. Next time I will have more confidence. Take the step!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Some of today's work. Got the control surfaces worked out as well as the propeller shaft foundation. Progressing according to plan!



After my horrible afternoon nap I'll plow into mounting the SD and hooking up the linkages.

[Kazzer]

Hell! Now I know why I like this guy! Damn! I said it! (And not like that - you sickos!)

[Hazegry]

I shouldn't have looked at this damn it must finish skipjack first.

[Kazzer]

My previous boats either had a pre cut hull or break in a different way, so When I cut my M1 it was pretty daunting, and the hull did spring quite a bit (centreline next time),, it was acceptable, and with some work I've achieved a more than passable join. Next time I will have more confidence. Take the step!

No photos of your M1? I'm almost done with mine, but I made a lead keel and it was a bit too heavy. I've had to drill it out to lighten the back end a bit. Silly me!

[redboat219]

David,
Could one access the rudder control horn by cutting through the kit's inherent panel line located on top of the rudder support instead of cutting the side?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sure you can. But no need to cut out the access I have here -- I did it for illustration purposes.

The production bell-crank will be fished into the rudder support arm and made up to the rudder operating shaft which is slide up, through the rudder, from the bottom. No need for an access hatch on the side of the rudder support arm. KISS.



Finish your KILO, damit!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I shouldn't have looked at this damn it must finish skipjack first.

Ha! GOTCHA, my Pretty! No more hydro's and tug boats for you, pal!

David

[goshawk823]

awesome progress, David. looking forward to seeing it all put together. that looks like plenty of throw for the rudder.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

plenty! And a great break should I need it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Today's/this mornings work:

[redboat219]

Wow! Can't wait to watch the video of the in water testing.

[trout]

David,That strap/tie down is brilliant. Both in the way you added the hook and loop strap as well as incorporate the alignment pin. Really well done. This set up looks easy and might be the one to recommend to a beginner, what do you think? Would this be a good suggestion? or wait until trim is done?Peace,Tom