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David, outstanding build, I really enjoy watching you take an idea and run with it.
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If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub. -
Yes, this SD is specific to the 1/35 Type-23, Mike. It is short of length to make room for the practical weapon system. I would have preferred to keep it long so we could get the bigger 3.2Ahr battery in there, but to make room for the torpedo tubes I elected to design this to take two of the shorter 1.8Ahr batteries wired in parallel. And for the same reason, the ballast tank is optimized for the Type-23 -- it need not be as long as the 'standard' SD.
However, for those who will not install the weapon system, they can use the 'standard' 2.5 SD with no problems at all.
The 'standard' (you call it generic) 2.5" SD is the ideal product for most of the 1/96 and 1/72 single-screw model submarines out there. The 'standard' 2.5 SD is very relevant, Mike.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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The Other guys talk about it. We do it!Who is John Galt?Comment
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David,
The fitting that you have in the photo that has a pivot for the snorkel; is that a fitting you created specifically for moving it to the diesel outlet on this model, or is that something that comes with the SD? Is there any play in it moving side to side that would cause it to hang up on the sides of the upper hull?
How long of a run time can you expect with the smaller batteries you've installed, if you include launching torpedoes?
This build thread has been very instructive; thanks for publishing your steps and the photos.Comment
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Sam,
I'm delighted that you've found the discussion useful -- that's why I take the time to write this stuff up, for guys like you ... guy's who actually do stuff with the information put out here, you don't just skip it and move on to the next round of HALO-3 with fellow non-productive geekazoid's.
A couple of years back, as I was exploring the SAS concept -- a system perfected by Manfred Reusing decades ago -- that the key device within the sub-system would be a simple and reliable snorkel assembly. Knowing that the sub-system had to have utility in models of both long and short fairwaters, I developed two types of snorkel assemblies: the vertical, for modern boats with their long skinny sails; and the horizontal, for boats of short, squat sails. So, the two different designs of the snorkel assembly was the result.
As to your question about the snorkel assembly: No. The Type-23 fittings kit -- which I'm feverishly working to get to market -- will not have the snorkel assembly in it. The snorkel assembly will be provided with the 2.5 Type-23 SD.
And, no, there is no transverse play in the snorkel head-valve pivot.
The recommended battery is the ganging of two 1800mAh Lithium-polymer batteries together in parallel. Enough juice for at least three hours of play-time if you don't lead-foot the thing around.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Oh please stop this!! I just can't take it anymore... How is a man supposed to keep on course for a Brodeen Nautilus when you keep taunting and teasing me so... It is just not fair I tell you...
Seriously though, I've been following both Manfreds and Davids threads out of curiosity with the thoughts of adding one of these to my fleet but talk about a kid in a candy shop with to many goodies to choose from He's on his favorite:biggrin:Cheers,
Alec.
Reality is but a dream...
But to dream is a reality
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You poor, poor dear!
Here's more for you:
Who is John Galt?Comment
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Yesterdays work:
Who is John Galt?Comment
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Nice work David,
If i look at the last picture, this probably will be the last time we hear something from you, you've entered the cave of She Who Must Be Obeyed without permission!!!!, and looking at the bloodthursty eyes of Ellie you're in big trouble Pal, run for your live while you can!!!!!!!
ManfredI went undergroundComment
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David- what is the purpose of the small square like shapes? It looked like there were magnets in the prior photos in them. Are they additional fittings to keep the conning tower on the hull?
Also, why are you heating styrene so that it fits over the cylinder?Comment
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Yes, what are you up to with the heated styrene being shaped around the tube?If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Which reminds me: The Bride-Groom's (Ellie's mob), had, the night before, wrote in big letters over the alter -- for all but the preacher, me and Ellie to see -- "abandon all hope, round-eye!"
Explaining the sniggling of the audience during the entire ceremony. Only on close examination of the wedding photos was this little capper revealed to me.
PropheticWho is John Galt?Comment
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To insure a tight seam between the upper and lower hull halves I'm providing some hold-down magnets. These are the holders that glue within the hull haves.
I'm providing 20 hull indexing tabs -- these index the two hull halves together. I heat-formed some .030" styrene over a tube of appropriate diameter.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Awesome stuff there. I like that you're including these types of accessories so that the builder doesn't have to guess or fabricate their own. Thanks for the quick reply, David.
-SamComment
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