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Yuck, i can't stand this, i hate you David
Manfred.
Manfred.
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I went underground -
Looking good David! A big improvement over what Bronco supplied with the kit! I understand why you chose the rake and pitch on the blades that you did. As your drive motor is a Speed 480 or 500, something like that?
If one wanted to attempt to match the rake and pitch of the real prop, do you think one of those 40mm diameter, low RPM, high torque, built-like-a-brick-oven Pittman motors could handle it? I would think one of those Pittmans with a 2:1 gear or belt reduction would produce some monstrous torque. At nominal voltage their motor shaft is spinning at less than 6000 RPM.
Steve"Wir kommen ihnen unbekannt."Comment
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David,
You mentioned in post #141 a rack and pinion gear set for the XXIII rudder. I am looking for a very small right angle drive of any type for a Kort nozzle control on another sub - German Type 202. Is your gear set a commercial item or are you making it yourself? If commercial (as is my hope), what is the source?
Dan (resurfacing from model train world)Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.Comment
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Hey, Dan!
Welcome back to the Dark Side. I'll make my own rack from plumbers putty (guess how?!).
A good sorce for your bevel gears is, Stock Drive Products https://sdp-si.com/eStore/
The 1/32 kit?! ... I got one of those.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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David,
Thanks, I'll take a look at that link.
Yes it's the Gordon Lewis/ Norbert Brüggen kit. A lot of people just extend control rods out through the rear part of the hull for both the Kort nozzle and the rear dive planes. Too easy - LOL. I am trying to figure out how to make all the control linkages internal to the hull. I may just hurt myself.
I'm still working on the Sheerline IID kit although the milling process for all the freaking holes is taking way longer than planned but I will finish it by spring 2014 if I can. I've told my model train buddies not to expect anything out of me for at least a year as I have way too many naval projects in the queue.
Glad to be back,
Dan
DanBorn in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.Comment
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I split the hull at the waterline.
While I was at it I got an idea of how much water the above waterline structures displace. About ten-ounces. With a bit more for safety I need the Type-23's Sub-driver ballast tank sized to hold thirteen-ounces.
The calculation was an easy one: as high-impact polystyrene has a specific gravity pretty close to that of water, all I had to do was weight the topside plastic, add the displacement of the SAS snorkel components and a few other top-side do-dads, and I had the displacement, hence the weight of water needed to pull it all underwater.
Emergency Cancellation, Archimedes!
Who is John Galt?Comment
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Mix up some epoxy putty. Push it in a styrene U-stock then roll a greased pinion gear set a certain height over the putty to impart the teeths and wait for it to harden.
How about using a toothed belt drive? I managed to salvage a toothed belt with corresponding pinion from an old printer I took apart. I guess you could use ones from RC cars.Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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Bingo, Romel. Well done. Now ... finish your KILO!Who is John Galt?Comment
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The removal of the upper hull from the lower hull lost about a 1/16" of kerf from the horizontal cut (the diamond wheel) and that material had to be made up. The radial cuts atop the hull were done with a razor saw and no significant kerf resulted.
To make up material lost to the diamond wheel I elected to weld 1/16" thick strips of polystyrene to the lower hull horizontal edges as make-up material. I took advantage of this build-up to provide a straight-edge that will guide me as I build up two-part filler to the sides of the hull to recontour away from the bowed-in situation that occurs where the forward and after quarters of the hull are stuck together -- that's why the center strips are wider than the others.
When the glue dries I'll take a long sanding block and establish a straight line on the outside and inside of the edge and where it overlaps the hull I apply filler. Simple!
I also worked up an internal bulkhead template. This will be used to give shape to the SD foundation masters as well as guide be as I work out SD placement within the hull.
Who is John Galt?Comment
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David,
I recalculated your ballasttank to metric, the volume will be about 400 ml for my XXIII, just because i want to add some items, thanks for calculating.
Looking at the drawing you made, why did you place your motor out of center?, is that because of stability, or it it because the single motor bulkhead has it at that position?
Boy, you're going fast, which is good for my, this way i can steal your idea's, keep on going!!!!!!!, and don't forget the pictures.
Manfred.I went undergroundComment
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First off, confession time: I mailed your long promised SD off today -- I deferred sending it off sooner in the hope of include some cast fittings kit items. But they are taking way, way too long, so your Sub-Driver kit (with a cylinder long enough to fit just about any sized ballast tank you want) is outa here as of one hour ago.
Yeah, 400ml is about 14 ounces -- that's what I'm putting into the Type-23 Sub-driver. That coupled with a shorter battery space (forward dry space), will make a SD short enough to permit installation of a weapon system. Mike has been bugging me for a large caliber torpedo since we first met. This should make his day!
That motor bulkhead has within it the 3:1 gearing, which offsets the drive output from centerline a bit. Should have put the motor low and put the output at centerline. I did that tooling about 20 years ago, and I must have had my head up my ass at the time. But, the angular displacement of the intermediate drive shaft is not too severe if it's long enough. Which is the case here, about eight-degrees, so no big whoop. The recently completed 3" motor-bulkheads have the motors slung low so the outputs are at centerline -- better late than never.
Yeah, I'm whizzing through this -- I need to wrap this fittings kit and SD up so I can get back to the production work (I see Mike in the distance practicing his whip-snapping). No rest for the Devil!
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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David-
I sent you an email from this site; not sure if you received it, but one of the questions I was asking was whether or not your system for this boat would allow space for torpedoes. Nice to see that you're making accommodations for it. I always thought this platform (whether 1/35. like this, or 1/24 like my other one from Bob) would be awesome for shooting torpedoes.Comment
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