German Type 212A 3D Print Build

[rwtdiver]

Rob,

Please switch to flat head, countersunk screws, SO much prettier, and in keeping with the rest of the boat's appearance! ;)

wlambing (How about at least a first name on this forum)

I appreciate your input, and will make that change!:-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

ditto................

Thanks David,

I will certainly make the change!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Rob, can you direct me to where you purchased the inserts and screws?
Bruce

Hi Bruce,





These are the brass inserts that I use. I got them off Amazon. Using these in PLA is quite simple. I bore a hole just a little smaller than the brass insert, and then I use a standard 30 watt soldering iron with the heated point, push the insert into the hole, but DO NOT let the iron sit to long, just enough to get the insert into the hole. I then apply THIN CA very carefully around the edge not to get any CA into the threads.

Hopes this helps Bruce!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[biggsgolf]

Thanks Rob!

[rwtdiver]

Today looked like it was going to be a challenging day for sure!



I was going to start cutting the floatation foam for the upper hull of the 212. I am using one of those sectional thin bladed box knives. When I started the first cut, I knew I was going to be in trouble. I just turned 80 years old yesterday, my eyesight is not the best anymore, and I take Eliquis 2 times a day. For those of you that may not know what Eliquis is, well it is a blood thinner. Not a good combination here for sure.. :-((

I had just started the cutting process, when in walked my wonderful wife, and her statement was! This looks like a trip to the ER for sure.



She then presented me with a wonderful Dremel Scroll Saw!:-))

This saw attaches to a desk top, and with a small hand vac that I had, it made a perfect saw for cutting out the foam pieces that I needed.



I did get a little carried away with cutting the foam pieces. Never know when I might need more of them. My wife really surprised me, and saved the day! She may have also saved a severed artery, and a trip to the ER.... :-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[wlambing]

Rob,

All turned out well, indeed! Much better than the fireman's quote from "Something About Mary"; "We've got a bleeder!!" Your woman is definitely a keeper! Mine would have handed me some busted yard clippers and told me to go to town with those!

Take care,

Bill

[rwtdiver]

Rob,

All turned out well, indeed! Much better than the fireman's quote from "Something About Mary"; "We've got a bleeder!!" Your woman is definitely a keeper! Mine would have handed me some busted yard clippers and told me to go to town with those!

Take care,

Bill

Thanks Bill,

Yes! I do have a very special lady in my life, and she is all in with our hobby...

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[Albacore 569]

That seems like a lot of foam (more to the point 'buoyancy') for the model? Arrange the foam and play with it, lead weights too. don't glue lock anything in till you have a good idea how much or how little nd TYT. The 212 does has a higher freeboard.

Wish my wife could read a workshop like that and provide the right tool. She doesn't know a screwdriver from a hammer. and her dad as a professor of structural engineering too. :( . I am on my own.

[rwtdiver]

Thanks Steven,

As for the Dremel tool! My wife knew that I had been looking at it, but, yes she is such a supporter of my hobbies, and I can't say enough about her!

As for the tool itself the amazon link below is the one I have.

https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-MS20-01-Moto-Saw-Variable-Compact/dp/B00AFELU6O/ref=sr_1_1?dib=e

As for the amount of foam in my 212, I have listed below Bob's build blog on that boat listed below.
Nautilus Drydocks 1:72 German Type 212 Instructions CH2 (youtube.com)

And I am going as close as to what he has in his kit. But, I do agree that I should do some pre-trim before the final installation.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Lots going on, but I am still finding some time to work on my 212!



I finished the installation of the foam inside the upper hull. I also gave it a coat of spray paint to sort of clean up the look.



I Have the weights set out and ready for installation. I will be using Loctite clear silicone waterproof sealant, did some sample glue ups, and it works great. Same as what I used on the foam
installation.

On the side: My wife's broken arm is healing up quite nicely, but now she will be going in for some knee surgery, I will be her caregiver, and the sub building will slow down a bit. But that is how it should be!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

I have managed to work in some sub building time today!



I have finished securing (gluing) using silicone adhesive the ballast weights to the bottom hull section of the 212.




I am also starting to work on the Stickleback again.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

More work on the bottom hull section of the 212.



I have prepared the cylinder saddles for the Velcro hold down ties.



Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

I will be using clear silicon adhesive for securing the Velcro to the saddles

[rwtdiver]

Today I prepared our swimming pool for the summer and (cool morning sub runs)



I also made sometime to install the velcro straps for holding in place the 300 series Easy Driver.





I now have both the upper and lower hull sections ready for the Easy Driver. Next I will tie in the rudder/dive plane linkage and the propeller shaft, and after this is complete we will start in on the trimming the boat out.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[RCSubGuy]

Looking awesome, Rob!

I could see in the photos how the spray paint melted the foam flotation blocks a bit. If you're going to paint foam, it should normally be done with acrylics. Light dustings of normal rattle can paint can work, but you need to keep the first couple of coats really light, let them dry, and then add more as the first layers form a barrier.

Other things foam doesn't like include CA glue, solvents of any kind, and almost any heat source...

[rwtdiver]

Looking awesome, Rob!

I could see in the photos how the spray paint melted the foam flotation blocks a bit. If you're going to paint foam, it should normally be done with acrylics. Light dustings of normal rattle can paint can work, but you need to keep the first couple of coats really light, let them dry, and then add more as the first layers form a barrier.

Other things foam doesn't like include CA glue, solvents of any kind, and almost any heat source...

Thanks Bob,

Should have known better!:-(( Pink could have been a better choice. I attached the foam, weights, and the velcro with silicon adhesive which really worked well.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."