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Depending on how the files for Typhoon turn out, the final scale will be flexible until we lock it in. Likely 1:144. Any larger and it would take weeks to print out. Of course, with 3D printing you can just scale to whatever you want, provided wall thickness doesn't get to thin when scaling down.
Depending on how the files for Typhoon turn out, the final scale will be flexible until we lock it in. Likely 1:144. Any larger and it would take weeks to print out. Of course, with 3D printing you can just scale to whatever you want, provided wall thickness doesn't get to thin when scaling down.
Depending on how the files for Typhoon turn out, the final scale will be flexible until we lock it in. Likely 1:144. Any larger and it would take weeks to print out. Of course, with 3D printing you can just scale to whatever you want, provided wall thickness doesn't get to thin when scaling down.
Rob, yes... working on a Typhoon!
Bob
Typhoon.....(.said with Anime eyes and a voice of a child) - Oh my I know what is next on my list! Thank you Bob!
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Bob, regarding the Natiilus, do you anticipate any problems using only forward active dive planes? Given the length of the hull, seems it may present less efficiency by "pulling" rather than "pushing" the boat to dive and rise.
I've seen boats set up to use only the forward planes, and actually, my LXG Nautilus will be set up that way. Obviously it is not as ideal as using both sets, but I can't see any issues. One that could pop up, however, is the fact that 571 Nautilus' planes only extended to 30 degrees from horizontal, so you are effectively getting only a portion of the surface area doing the force exertion on the boat. The aft planes are far better situated to control the sub, especially mounted aft of the props as they are.
Why wouldn't you set up the rear planes, out of curiosity?
Sorry Bob...I should have referred to the "Sword of the Sea" Nautilus! I recall from your video that due to limited engineering space in aft section, the rear planes may remain static. Thanks for the explanation Bob!
Bob,
I do not know what you are up against on the aft planes, but I was thinking. Use magnets for making the travel work - this can be made very thin or the pushrod can be made into many shapes.
Let me put up a crayon drawing and then explain:
Each plane would have a horn attached to the shaft. On that horn is a magnet. The pushrod would have one length of magnet travel through a brass sheet. This way the pushrod would go in one way and held between the plane magnets.
Might work.
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Thanks for the drawing! I actually like the idea of the magnetic connectors.
The issue, however, is not the tight confines of the rear section. There is actually ample room back there for linkages. The issue is that the dive planes are situated just above an outflaring hull contour. Imagine the Nautilus' cross section looking like a pear. Well, the dive planes are situated where the top transitions to the bottom. The shaft is in the middle of the planes, so if the plane tilts forward or back, the edge hits the lower hull after only a few degrees of deflection.
I could cut the plane and have only the outermost part pivot, but that wouldn't be true to the design, and would offer significantly less control than the full plane would.
I'm confident that the forward planes will be large enough to offer good control over pitch. The rear planes will help provide stability when under way.
(Sorry for the tiny pic... I'm working from a tablet while I'm up here in Canada, and it's only uploading a thumbnail for some crazy reason). You can see what I'm talking about though...)
Tom you may be onto something there with magnets attaching the stern dive planes and rudder. You might be able to eliminate the grub screws and z- bends. And if someone bumps the rudder / dive planes the would give instead of bend or break.
Bob,
What about cutting the planes leaving the portion closest to the sub fixed (and therefore not interfering with the hull) and the exterior portion move? I may be beating a dead horse, but it has my mind thinking.....always good when I can get a few gears in my noggin working.
Peace,
Tom
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Tom you may be onto something there with magnets attaching the stern dive planes and rudder. You might be able to eliminate the grub screws and z- bends. And if someone bumps the rudder / dive planes the would give instead of bend or break.
Scott, the only disadvantage is magnets are easier to slide apart versus pulled apart. Os some experimenting would be required.
Peace,
Tom
If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.
Bob,
What about cutting the planes leaving the portion closest to the sub fixed (and therefore not interfering with the hull) and the exterior portion move? I may be beating a dead horse, but it has my mind thinking.....always good when I can get a few gears in my noggin working.
Peace,
Tom
Yeah, I mentioned that in my reply. Certainly doable, but my Spidey-senses say that I'll get good response from the bow planes... enough that the stern planes won't be needed. If it is a brick during sea trials, I can always yank the rear planes and do the cut version. I'll install a dedicated servo for that, just in case.
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