today's work

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[SubDude]

Socks, sandals and an apron.... find a happy place! FIND A HAPPY PLACE!! Talk about a machine David. You are it.

[redboat219]

Hope you're wearing something underneath that apron.

David at breakfast https://stock.adobe.com/images/naked...indo/131033135

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Socks, sandals and an apron.... find a happy place! FIND A HAPPY PLACE!! Talk about a machine David. You are it.

'Casual Tuesday' (the Kilt was in the wash).

David

[Das Boot]

Suspect in the Virginia Chainsaw Massacres.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Suspect in the Virginia Chainsaw Massacres.

Moderator... MODERATOR!!!....MODERATOR!!!!!! Clean-up on aisle, 46.



Concerned Forum Member In Good Standing

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[Das Boot]

I’m not putting all that wood in my motel room.

[redboat219]

You could put a few of these over the holes and paint the whole box black or stain it.
then call it a "Subwoofer box".

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I’m not putting all that wood in my motel room.

One of your more questionable double-entendre postings Casey! Frightening, to say the least, for the maid-service.

[Ken_NJ]

David, with his 'Today's work' posting has been inspirational for me. With last year's Subfest and all of the Groton events I had my models strapped into the back seat or just laying in the back of our SUV. Dangerous for the models if you stop short. For the long trip to Subfest this year I am making boxes. Being anal, I went way beyond making simple boxes for model transport, as you will see.

I started with a 3/4" x 10" x 6' board and cut it into 3/4 x 3/4 strips. The top and bottom strips have notches in them, you'll see what for later. They were glued up into a box shape. 3/16 underlayment for wet areas was used for the box sides.



Here are those notches I mentioned.



For the frame corners I first made lap joints on the table saw for sections A & B and glued them together. Once dry, back to the table saw and cut another lap joint into A & B for C.



Another view of the corner.



Lots of clamping of parts together.



One trick I figured out. If you want to transfer a point on one side of the board to the other side, I used a pair of pliers, butted it on one side up to the frame, and mark your transfer point to the other side.
Here I have the pliers butted up the the frame on the blind lower side, now I can mark the point on the other side.



To drill the air holes in the underlayment and avoid splintering, I started the hole on one side.....



Then finished drilling the hole from the opposite side. They meet in the middle, not the outside surface, avoids splintering.



Next part coming up in next post.

[Ken_NJ]

My Skipjack and Marlin have display stands. They will help lock the model in place when in the transport boxes.



Here is the inside of a somewhat completed box.



To hold the models down in the box, I glued 1 inch foam to multiple ply plywood strips. I scrounge people throwing out dressers and take the drawers. That type wood is useful as the wood does not usually warp. The foam was them shaped to fit the top portion of the model.



Then the guillotine style foam boards are fit into their respective slots. Those notches I mentioned. The box lid, when screwed down will hold the foam boards in place.

[Ken_NJ]

For the Skipjack, I won't be leaving the electronics section in the cylinder as after a while it seems to stay stuck in the cylinder and is difficult to remove. The transport boxes have a lot of empty space above the hull, so I made this storage tray which drops into the box behind the sail.



Here it is behind the sail. It drops into their own slots in the frame.



That empty compartment on the right, what to do with it? It can hold misc tools or nick-knacks used on the model. Since the main box is 4-1/2 inches deep, you can pile alot of stuff and stuff can get buried. SO I made these boxes to help organized things. They nest inside each other, then they nest inside the larger tray.





Since the transport boxes fit in our SUV stacked, was thinking of using these latches to lock the boxes together for stability. Not sure where I'm going to put these yet. Will use them in pairs on each side.



And finally, the Skipjack box is shorter than the Marlin box so the SJ box will sit on top of the Marlin. To have the boxes lock together, the Marlin box has a strap on the lid which locks into the u-shaped foot on the bottom of the SJ box. Holes were also drilled so the foot is not sitting on the screws.



Now to paint the boxes battleship gray of course! I'll be ready for Subfest!

Once the boxes are painted I'll be adding 1/4 rope as carrying handles. Much like the rope you see on the picture above of the Skipjack. The rope will be fed through holes that are in the top frame.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ken,

Yours is the most elaborate, well-engineered storage box I've ever seen.

I HATE YOU!!

You Cabinet Maker, you! See you on the field-of-battle in a bit over a week from now. And please, for the love of God, don't park your storage-transportation box anywhere near mine or I'll set the thing on fire when you're not looking!

David
Taken Back to School

[SubDude]

Dang Ken! Your boxes are an extension of the thought and detail you put into your subs. Awesome stuff for sure.