Converting the Bronco type XXIII to RC

[redboat219]

Got my own idea for an extendable/retractable periscope mast.

How about using the air pump to extend (or retract) a spring equipped cylinder? A servo operated valve controls the release of air out of the cylinder.

[MFR1964]

David,

Let's see if my trick will work, don't know about the exact space/height you've got in that skipjack conningtower, but i think it will be possible to raise some stuff on your own command.
There is plenty of room inside that battery compartment to add another LPB and a airswitch with servo, in combination with those neat airconnectors Tom has made, you've got a easy connection to your actuator.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Hey I resemble that remark! No floating periscope? Oh my.

Sorry Tom, i got carried away, but what would be better than raising your stuff at your own command, lowtech i always like, but if hightech works, i'm in!!

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,

Keep on taking notes, i think i'm on to something, when using the bigger SD you can do this for every model, so that awfull skipjack can get some retracting stuff as well, yuk!!!


Manfred.

I'm with you. That SKIPJACK has just about the densest packaging of masts of any combat submarine in history. An unsightly mess when they're all raised.

I'll watch your work with keen interest, Manfred.

M

[trout]

that awfull skipjack can get some retracting stuff as well, yuk!!!


Manfred.

Hey I resemble that remark! No floating periscope? Oh my.

[MFR1964]

David,

Keep on taking notes, i think i'm on to something, when using the bigger SD you can do this for every model, so that awfull skipjack can get some retracting stuff as well, yuk!!!


Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yet another reason to hate Manfred!

Wow. (taking notes).

M

[MFR1964]

This is the airswitch i made in the past, normally you connect the air input on the middle tube, by sliding the inner part to the right or left, the outer tubes will give you the selected air for up or down, this way you can select wether the top inlet or lower inlet of your actuator gets airpressure, my scopes on the type VII work exactly that way.

While playing around with this switch i had a grazy idea, what if i connected the inlet of the compressor to the left tube and the outlet to the most right tube?, with the sliding part in the middle, the LPB will do nothing, it's just pumping air around.
If i slide the inner part to the left, i'll be connecting the output of the LBP to the middle tube, pressing up the actuator, going back to the middle with the inner part would mean, the actuator stays extended and the LPB running freely, now slide the innerpart to the right, connecting the middle tube with the suction side of the LPB, the underpressure will lower the actuator.
I've ordered a Robart airswitch, which does exactly the same, the main problem with my home made switch was, those tiny servo's don't have enough power to move the switch around, from experience i know the Robart switch does, it's also much smaller as my own design, it still has to fit inside the SD, the servo has to do two things at the time, actuade the Robart switch and the LPB at once at the left and right movement, in neutral position the LPB has to stop.
Want to use some micro switches to make this work, as you can see guys, loads of work to make this happen, i did some testing before by hand, they will run up and down, but i have to tinker the plungers, if i manage to make them slide up and down by my own breath, i'm in!!!!.
The most nice thing about this is, you can run your scope with the air inside your SD, only take account you have to lower your scope before getting your boat up, this is to prefent too much underpressure which will stick your float against the inlet, at least, that's my theory.
When the XXIII is in the wet, i can test if this will be true, if not, it's even better!!!

Satisfied David?, SkunkWork is running at top speed!!!


Manfred.

[MFR1964]

You're right on the money, old fox!!!, made that switch some time ago for another project, that didn't worked out, so it went into the spare draw, only to be re-used for my retracting stuff, i'll take a picture from the switch, and explane what gave me a eureka moment, be patient.


Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

That is some fine work, Manfred. How will you retract them with only the one nipple at the bottom of the actuators -- the diaphragm pump will only move air/water in one direction? Or ... you sneaky devil, is there a flow-reverser switch involved here?

Details, damit .... I want details!

M

[MFR1964]

Made some good progress on the lathe, both the peroscope and snorkel are ready in their basic form, next week time to play with some air or water, depends on which one will work the best.



This way i build my retracting stuff, a little plunger with a O ring, which fitts inside the outer tube, blowing in air or water through the lower inlet will raise the plunger and therefore also the scope/snorkel.
This cilinder is build as a single action one, with only one inlet at the bottom, the scopes on the type VII are double action, which means another inlet on top of the tube.



Both cilinders in their retracted position, as you can see the other stainless tube on the snorkel is a fake one, have to add some sliding guides and a tooth track on it, just a minor detail, first get them to work.



The extended position, i've calculated the maximum lenght, and like expected, they are shorter as to scale, that darned SD is in the way to get them longer, so the end of the story will be, i won't be able to retract them inside the tower, but they will certainly move.


Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Converted to metric that will be 0.5-1.0 Bar, should be enough to do the trick, back to the shop for some more work on the lathe.

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

7-15 psi with the small type LPB you're using, Manfred. And these little diaphragm pumps will move either air or water, you so can go hydraulic or pneumatic. Neat.

M

[MFR1964]

Made a start with finishing up the scope and snorkel,



First step is adding the stainless tubing i ordered before, in the past i allready made some scopes the same way, so this was a easy job.



Dryfitting to see which height will be the best, since i want them to move, i probably will end up with some shorter version, have to think about that.

For now the lathe is spinning for making the air/water cilinders, this is some tricky work, normally i run my scopes at 1,5 Atm, i don't expect that the little compressor can deliver that, so making them run as smooth as possible is the next challence.


Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Thanks David,

Finally all pieces of the puzzle are coming together, the SD functions as the backbone of my system, once you 'click' the boat together with the magnets it's becoming sturdy and rigid, it doesn't matter at which position you hold this boat, it won't fall apart.
After all, it's being kept together by 9 pair of magnets, so sudden seperation is not a issue, opening up this boat goes with real ease by 'breaking' it's backbone, doing this quick it takes 3 seconds to open up and retrieve the SD.

Thanks Peter,

Hah, Witchcraft, my secret is revealed!, you take one pound of blood from a virgin, mix it up with wild mushrooms and grinded batwings, stirr it for 2 hours in a copper bowl on a oak fire during full moon between 24.00-01.00 and serve it cool, there are some side effects, but those can be ignored as futile.

Thanks Tom,

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, a few more weeks and i'll discover if i encounter the same problems as with David's boat, Boy, i'm looking forward to this adventure.

Romel

Just like you, i'm eager to get her into the water, but rushing won't speed up this process, working my way up step after step is my normal procedure, i always have a todo list to sign off, patience has to be your friend, not your enemy.


Manfred.