GATO! (It has begun)

[Subculture]

You need to improve your soldering chops then.

What I do is pre-tin the connector with a blob of solder. Pre-tin the wire, then sweat the two together. You can add a bit of extra flux if you want, but isn't usually necessary.

[matthewnimmo]

Im certain its my ****ty skills, but what was driving me batty was i did pre-tin the connector and the wires (like i did the first side of the connector that went together rather smooth. The second side two hours later and still not together. The end of my iron is pretty dark but still gets everything hot. My wire bunch has crappy looking sodder on it (which looks a little burnt ... Probably due to the rosin). I know im getting everything nice and hot as i have a burnt thumb to prove it. Just wondering if im missing something? Do i need to cut the wires and try again?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK, Andy and me have had our fun. Sounds like you have contaminated multi-wire conductor -- I've had this happen with old servo leads: you strip the insulator and find the copper wires (was it copper?) are dark and crummy looking. I, for the life of me, could not get the solder to flow onto that conductor. Sounds like sour wires with you too, Matt, as you're having trouble tinning it. Try (duh!) different conductor material.

60 Watt's is over-kill, so it's not a heat issue as I suggested above.

Me so sorry!

M

[trout]

Maybe I missed something, but you are not holding the deans connector in you fingers right? You are using a third hand or tweezers to hold it. Pretty much what I have done is what Andy and David have shared. Cleaning the tip of your soldering iron on a damp sponge will help keep crusties off and allow better transfer of heat. I will apologize in advance if you already know this.

[matthewnimmo]

@David, so i think i get what you guys are saying about the switch. Originally i believe that is what i had cooked up in my head minus the fuse; but i thought that cant be right ... Lol

but what is this "strain relief block" you mention?

[matthewnimmo]

So, I've updated my diagram to reflect what i believe David was saying. Is this now correct? Also, what do you mean by "Strain relief block?"




Also, i'll post up pictures soon; but I finally just had to use a solderless connector on that one end of the red Dean's connector with my bundle of black wires from (ESC, LIPO, etc,etc) ... but that seem to go together nicely.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The schematic looks good, Matt. Keep at it, pal.

M

[trout]

I was a little confused by your schematic, you have a positive and Negative going to the switch. I put my fuse on the other polarity than the switch, so please indulge me as I modified your drawing. If this is wrong guys let me know because I have been wiring my subs this way and if I need to change I would rather learn it now than share bogus info.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Makes no never-mind which side of the battery the fuse is put, as long as it's in series with the battery.

M

[matthewnimmo]

Couple questions

1). What size fuse do i need to use. From one pic i saw 5amp but from a different drawing i saw 10amp?
2). Off topic slightly: i purchased the 8 channel 72mhz radio a few months back and im curious if i can also use that for flying my rc planes being that its 72mhz? Id like to get multiple uses out of that system if possible. Granted i would by another receiver for my plane but would be nice to use the same remote

[crazygary]

Mornin', Matt!!

I don't have a fuse answer for you, but 72Mhz is usually reserved for the car/aircraft guys!

75Mhz is the norm for us boat types. Also 2.4Ghz, but that won't work for subs.

The car and airplane guys get a little upset if an interfering signal causes them to lose control of
their high-dollar toys!

If you're absolutely sure you'll never be running your sub in an area inhabited by the "other guys", then
you may be able to get away with 72Mhz. I'd check the area out really well before hand just in case!

CG

[matthewnimmo]

Then im confused. Why did sub-driver.com sell me this unit? http://www.sub-driver.com/electronic...ansmitter.html

When i received my unit it had the 72mhz checked. Was i sent the wrong one?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Bet that 'check' was on the box, not the transmitter. That's how they produce them out of the plant, the default configuration off the assembly line has them tuned for the 'aircraft' band. It was changed at the factory to Caswell's specifications -- that's when it went from 72 to the 75mHz band. Don't fret.

You got the WFly 8-channel 'computer' radio with all the fixings. What counts here is that the RF section (which determines what band your transmitting on, 75, 72 or 2.4g) is a module; it's removable. Examine the back of your transmitter. You'll see this removable module, with a crystal sticking out of it. Betcha it says 69! That's a 'surface' frequency here in the States and to those evil white people north of us. If so, you have a RF module that outputs in the 75mHz band -- about 20 discrete frequencies there we can chose from. That makes you street-legal for r/c submarines, ships, cars, robots, tanks, and the like.

Replace the module with one tuned for the 72mHz band and you are good to use the 'airplane' frequencies. Plug in a RF module tuned for the 2.4gHz band and (with a new antenna) you can operate all BUT a submarine. Neat, huh!

M

[matthewnimmo]

That is super cool David! I can use that remote for multiple devices. That will save me money in the long run. Thanks again. Ill double check the unit inside the box to make sure it was set to 75mhz instead of what the box says

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Very good. Mike looked long and hard for a source of transmitters and receivers ideal for the r/c submarine market. He was on the hunt while, at the same time, almost all of the r/c equipment manufacturers were transitioning to all 2.4gHz -- completely locking-out we r/c submarine drivers. Most guys don't appreciate how delicate our position is: no non-2.4gHz r/c systems available, no r/c submarine!

We all should devote three-minutes out of each day to kiss Mike's butt -- thanks to him, and his bucks, for saving this hobby here in the States.

Mike got WFly to make gear just for us, and to keep the production lines open -- which only happens because Mike buys enough of this gear to make it worth while to the Chinese (who have embraced Capitalism better than we practice it here in the States of late). God bless the ChiCom's!

M