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I'm back after a 3d printer breakdown and a lot of putty work on the hull to align the upper part and the lower part.
I will be able to move on to painting the hull
...and with his painting.
It still lacks the markings and the matte protective varnish.
In reality the red paint is not as clear as in the photos. I used the same brand and reference as Bob in his video(Liquitex Professional Spray Paint - 12oz/400ml, Cadmium Red Medium Hue ref 0151):
This is an overview of the 3D files available for purchase from the Nautilus Drydocks. The video highlights assembly of the hull and linkages. NOTE: This is ...
it will not have bow thrusters.
I'm not a fan of wheathering and I have to say that painting was a difficult step for me, it's not my favorite thing.
can someone tell me what these white lines parallel to the water are for ?
I have a question for those who have printed endcaps for their wtc:
In the print settings, do you set the infill to 100%?
I find that by putting 100% the weight of the caps is high.
I have a question for those who have printed endcaps for their wtc:
In the print settings, do you set the infill to 100%?
I find that by putting 100% the weight of the caps is high.
THANKS
indy1010,
I have always used 100% infill on my WTC end caps. It's my opinion that going with 100% will slow down any water penetration (if there is any!) I have run water tests to see how long it takes for water to penetrate at different infill settings. I found 100% is for sure the best. With that being said I still coat the inside of my caps with a two part resin to add that extra seal against water penetration.
I printed a test cap and I will try.
I have a wtc with an id=84mm. I bought o-rings with an od=84mm.
Unfortunately it's too big as a joint.
I will therefore have to wait until I have received the other o-rings to test the cap.
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