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Moebius Skipjack

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  • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
    First coat of cloth/epoxy is on and drying. Iām looking way ahead. What paint, manufacturer, should I use? I have a new airbrush I can use. Iād assume most of the paint should be flat? Not sure the zinc chromate is available?

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    invest in this system: Ultra 9K Waterborne Refinish System | Automotive Finishes (sherwin-williams.com)

    Accept no substitutes!

    David
    Resident Luddite

    Comment


    • David,
      Is this a newer paint that you are using? What made you move to this brand (other than it works)?
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by trout View Post
        David,
        Is this a newer paint that you are using? What made you move to this brand (other than it works)?
        Those ****-head, liberal, tree-kissing, liberal weenies in California saw to it that the refinish industry dropped their lines of hydrocarbon based coating systems and went the water route. Sherwin-Williams developed a water-based, two-part chemistry (Ultra 9K) to replace the earlier enamel, lacquer, urethane, alkali, epoxy systems.

        I'm not using it yet, but will have to switch to this nature-loving, politically-correct, Greenpeace approved, wok crap when I run out of my current stock of Chromacolor and Chromaclear urethanes.
        Resident Luddite

        Comment


        • Made the z cuts on the lower forward section and aft upper section. Cuts came out clean and true. Just needed slight sanding to remove the cuts marks.

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          Finished sanding the irregularity between the lower hull sections. Applied about 5 layers of glazing to build up to get it as even and feathered as I can. I think it came out well. Cut open the two holes that were covered by the epoxy and cloth.

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          Have the strap hold down in place. Relocated the aft screw, see location in above picture. Screws were covered with CA and baking soda and sanded smooth.

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          Ribs were cut open on the top and bottom hull sections to facilitate water draining and allow air bubbles to flow out.

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          • Since I'll have a mechanism to open the torpedo doors, it may need service at some point. I added these ribs to the upper section and two to the lower section. They will be tapped for 1-72 screws.

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            The brass screws were ground flat and the round edges were squared up so they will sit so they are level with the hull surface.

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            Like so.

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            Once pilot holes were drilled thru the hull side and ribs, they were drilled again for the tap size. The ribs were tapped. The hull hole was opened up for a loose fit. Then the outside hole was countersunk so the screw sat flush with the hull exterior.

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            At this point the seam was sanded so the two hull sections were just about invisible.

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            Interior shot showing the torpedo doors and ribs holding the upper and lower hulls together.

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            Four screws will be hardly visible on the outside and 2-56 machine screws hold the aft section together from the inside.

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            Now I can finally start work on the fun part. The mechanism to open & close the torpedo doors!

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            • Problem. The instructions say use a 8-1/4 inch tube to make the shaft. That size tube causes the end of the SD to fall between the studs in the lower hull. So I need to extend the length of the tube by about 7/16" like Tom did. That moves the SD up before the studs.

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              Whatever the shaft length is to move the SD, the post from the shock absorber falls between the drain holes in the ballast tank. What to do here? Drill a hole in the SD to accommodate the shock absorber post? There is no mention in the instructions about this. What have others done?

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              Comment


              • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                Problem. The instructions say use a 8-1/4 inch tube to make the shaft. That size tube causes the end of the SD to fall between the studs in the lower hull. So I need to extend the length of the tube by about 7/16" like Tom did. That moves the SD up before the studs.

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                Whatever the shaft length is to move the SD, the post from the shock absorber falls between the drain holes in the ballast tank. What to do here? Drill a hole in the SD to accommodate the shock absorber post? There is no mention in the instructions about this. What have others done?

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                Move the shock absorber as required and drill a new hole for the indexing pin.

                David
                Resident Luddite

                Comment


                • I have the shock absorber permanently mounted in place. Would required much ripping things apart to get it out. Guess a small hole for the pin is the only option.

                  Comment


                  • Yes, put hole for pin.
                    That is what I did.
                    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                    Comment

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