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Moebius Skipjack

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  • differentiate between 'different' and 'correct'!

    Scale modeling is the pursuit of perfection, and the rejection of deliberate false presentation. You either do it right (perfection being unattainable, but must be the standard that guides us), to the best of your ability, or you don't. And if your work falls short you hone your abilities, increase the level of your skills, and fix it!

    Never settle for good-enough!

    David
    Who is John Galt?

    Comment


    • Got it David!

      What's the beat way to handle these deadlights?

      Put the lens on, then the PE, mask off the lens, then paint? Tuff to mask off that clear lens.

      That PE is so thin. How to glue it without making a mess of the lens.

      Click image for larger version

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      • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
        Got it David!

        What's the beat way to handle these deadlights?

        Put the lens on, then the PE, mask off the lens, then paint? Tuff to mask off that clear lens.

        That PE is so thin. How to glue it without making a mess of the lens.

        Click image for larger version

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        Eazy-Peezy.

        1. CA the dead-light within the sail
        2. with a finger build up several layers of CA, the thickness of the CA a bit higher than the surrounding sail structure
        3. sand and polish the CA over-coat to an optically clear status
        4. scribe the outer perimeter of each dead-light to the outline and depth of the PE retaining flange
        5. apply white glue (bezel glue if you have it) sparingly within the outboard sides of the scribed trenches
        6. insert the flange and wipe away any glue that squirts out, wipe away from the dead-light
        7. mask the deadlights and paint
        8. sing my praises!

        David
        Who is John Galt?

        Comment


        • Mask dead lights with white glue. Once painted, you can wash the white glue out.
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment


          • Thanks David and Tom. Working on it.

            I knew that valley would be a problem. I did a decent job taping the perimeter, so I thought. How can I get these to appear better? Either you tape to the inside or the outside, but in both instances I thought they may not come out clean.

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            • Always mask so the engraved trenches get the darker color.






















              David
              Who is John Galt?

              Comment


              • I should have checked with you before I taped it off. Now what?

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                  I should have checked with you before I taped it off. Now what?
                  Mask the buoy and touch up the perimeter with the same dark-gray as you used on the hull. Duh!
                  Who is John Galt?

                  Comment


                  • What do you use here? For the mesh? I wandered HD and did not find anything suitable? Looks to be some sort of plastic strainer thingy.

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                    • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                      What do you use here? For the mesh? I wandered HD and did not find anything suitable? Looks to be some sort of plastic strainer thingy.

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                      In days of old, when AC was not the norm, we had this magic material that would keep bugs out and fresh-air in. It was called 'screen'. Back then it was metal mesh, today it's plastic, and easily pulled into compound curves. At your big-box store. Ask for, 'bug screen'. Sold by the roll.
                      Who is John Galt?

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                      • LOL, yea I buy a 10 yard roll for 6 square inches.

                        I do have some metal screen that I use to make diamond plate on another boat. Impregnated it with resin, came out great looking. But I think it's to fine for the submarines purpose.
                        Last edited by Ken_NJ; 08-28-2021, 07:43 PM.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                          LOL, yea I buy a 10 yard roll for 6 square inches.

                          I do have some metal screen that I use to make diamond plate on another boat. Impregnated it with resin, came out great looking. But I think it's to fine for the submarines purpose.
                          I'll send you some screen. I'm the idiot who bought a whole roll of the stuff years ago. Email me your mailing address, Ken.

                          David
                          Who is John Galt?

                          Comment


                          • LOL, will do, thanks David.

                            This should do as well. Needle point plastic sheet from the craft store. https://www.michaels.com/rug-canvas-.../10035953.html

                            Comment


                            • David, can you post a pictures of the masts. Working on airbrushing them. And did you get my email about the mesh?

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                                David, can you post a pictures of the masts. Working on airbrushing them. And did you get my email about the mesh?
                                Yeah, that needle-point mesh looks like it has utility.

                                I'm sending you plastic mesh sheets today. Look for them by mid-next-week.

                                Here are some shots of actual SKIPJACK boats as well as model SKIPJACK's I've assembled and built. With emphasis on the masts, fairings, optics, and antennas:











                                David

                                Who is John Galt?

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