I started thinking about motor capacitors for these things....and guess what. These have built in SMD(surface mount device) boards already installed. So I wont need them. Just as a side note, its my understanding that motors used in a model that uses a 2.4 GHZ radio, dont need any type of motor suppression.
Seaview
Collapse
X
-
Last edited by greenman407; 08-05-2014, 09:11 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY! -
I would have already posted the results of my latest test, If it wernt for.......there was no test. Well.....actually, there was but it failed due to technical difficulties. For one thing the thrust has increased to the point that the forward "push" on the empellors is pushing the Subdriver forward causing the drive shafts and there Dumas nylon connectors to dis- engage and strip off the drive tabs. Embarrassing! I never installed a pin to locate the Subdriver. Ive always used rubber bands to hold it down. I hope to have the results of a test this weekend or Monday at the latest.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
OK, with the new motors at 12 volts turning 4 bladed empellors we are up to 21 ozs. of thrust. The kiddie pool is like a whirlpool bath with the Seaview in there running. But, the motors are getting hot. Running for 5 minutes at full throttle the motors were at 130 degrees. I may test for 10 minutes next time and see. Or I may take out the 3s Lipo and put in a 2s which is what those motors are rated for anyway. Or I may take out the 4 bladed empellors and reinstall the 2 bladed.
Another endeavor on this project is to take the external gearboxes and make them into a force feed greaser for the motor shaft seals. If I seal it all the way up and install a small zerk fitting in the thicker part I can inject it with grease and keep water away from the shaft seals.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
The motor builder told me that up to 150 degrees is OK. His motors are built to take it. These motors are custom handwound. He uses better wire with thicker insulation.
At any rate, here are some pictures of the gearboxes that Im modifying to accept grease.The reason for this is, I guess all the motor swaps on this thing, I must have damaged one of the seals, because on the last test, there was way more water in the Subdriver than I wanted to see. This should keep it high and dry. This will pack waterproof grease down around the seals and not let any water into that area.Last edited by greenman407; 08-29-2014, 07:57 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
AND ANOTHER THING! I dont like all the fluttering of the dive planes on all my boats. You know......where the APC picks up vibrations and transfers it to the planes.
Im toying around with an idea.............................................. .................................................. .................................................. ....OH! (dementia) Ive been thinking about taking a prescription bottle and filling it with silicone gel. Then putting the APC inside it. The problem is obvious however. The APC has to be mounted to maintain zero bubble to react to changes in pitch. Anywhere you touch the APC(mounting surface) is going to transfer vibration. Even the APC control wires transfer vibrations thru them. Even moving it forward, the vibrations go thru the whole boat. Im working on it.Last edited by greenman407; 08-18-2014, 08:00 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
Mark,
I remember Edmund Scientific hard a rubber fetter that absorbed vibration, let me see if I can find it.......
not feet, but sheet. What about this? http://www.scientificsonline.com/sorbothane-sheets.html
Peace,
tomIf you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
-
Thanks a lot! I could cut three or four pieces about 2" x 3" and stack them on top of one another. Then put the APC on that. I wonder if it will work?IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
How about alternating it with felt for additional damping?Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
-
That also sounds like a good idea. Im going to order that sheet that Tom suggested and we can start from there. We might be on to sumpin.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
Mark, I am amazed you understood my post, I just re-read it and either I was REALLY tired or the auto correct took over. Anyways, look forward to seeing what you find out.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
-
Thanks Tom , as usual, for all your help. If this works, Ill retrofit it into Seaview, Oscar, Albacore, Skipjack and the Type 23.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
Comment
-
I havent seen an APC yet that doesnt pick up motor vibrations. Every sub that I have, the stern planes jitter and move up and down when you operate the motors. ADF, ADF2, UPC, Subtek, Thor, they all do it. And this is set for low sensitivity on the APC. The UPC will do it when you move the rudder. It picks up the rudder servo vibrations. Single motor drives do it but its somewhat livable. Twin motors, its crazy.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
-
Comment
-
Mark, I am not convinced that the jitters is from movement only (although, I have experienced it to), I also think that there is some interference or other environmental factors that may be at play here too! It could be motors, servos, or other electrical component.
So, I again say, I am looking forward to what you find.
You really are a problem solving kind of person and I like that!If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
Comment