Well! This explains a lot! I wondered why there were so many odd characters in this submarine game. It's the sanding! Does the styrene dust get inhaled? Yes! That must be it! Who'd a thunk it!
Tom Chalfant - Bronco Type XXIII
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AHA! And here is a good example of the danger of mixing chemicals. Styrene and his favorite Ferric Chloride. Causing - Memory loss, sleeping in the afternoons, eyeballs glue to old movies, 90 minutes a day in the Shi**er. ADHD and a host of other ailments. Don't let this happen to you folks!Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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Thanks for the idea. I use Baking Soda and CA. I am not too worried about the details, I will recreate them.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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I have half round stock, some will bath it with liquid glue and put a texture in it. I am not going to discount any of the ideas until I get to the point when the details can be added back.
Thank you Romel!If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Worth remembering that a weld bead on a hull is likely to only be about an inch wide (prepares to be corrected), so thats going to be 1/32 inch on this model boat. Dont overkill the lines.
On my Koryu i sprayed some paint into a pot, allowed it evaporate for a while, then daubed the gloopy paint mix onto the hull, after similar masking tape tracks were madeNext time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:popComment
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Thank you Albion! David taught me a lesson when he talked about cutting out 1/72 men to keep scale in mind. Your reminder is perfect timing.
Made a screed for the hull by holding the plastic card perpendicular to the hull, laid the pen against the hull and drew the hull's profile along it. Then cut it out.
Checked the shape against the hull and it fit very nicely. The aft end fit with a slight downward shift in the screed.
For the most part it went on smoothly.
Then I ran a feeler gauge through the setting resin, it is a .07mm, for the seam.
It made a really nice thin line.
During sanding I took it outside on the patio. While sanding, the seam got wider and wider. I thought it was being pinched and caused the deck bow. The deck felt warm (the sun was shining, it was mid 60's) and I had a theory.
I apologize for the color, I did not change the white balance on the camera. So as a test, I put the sub inside to let it cool. The deck flattened out. Then took it out in the sun again and as I was holding it I could see it slowly bow out.
Knowing that, I sanded in the shade and out of the heat of the sun.
I will let the sub dry after the washing and will put some CA on the edges.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Not sure why your print does not work. I have not tried to print from the forum.
Today I did a test on weld lines.
Here is the erased section.
Placed tape so that it matched the missing weld line width.
Sprinkled in some baking soda and rubbed it into the gap.
Using a brass wire touch the CA to the baking powder weld line.
Rub any loose baking powder into the weld line to soak up any CA not cured.
Take a sanding stick and sand it down to level the weld line to the tape (or slightly higher).
Peel the tape off and there you go a weld line that looks pretty close to the original.
I did not want to glue the top to the bottom, so I opened up the top and it split at the seam, perfect. I think I will continue with this.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Nice! You're taking me back to school, Tom. Good stuff.
(I think I slipped in more pushrod seals in that ALVIN box, so that should help with your SKIPJACK problem)
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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