Revell type IX project

[Von Hilde]

Now I got nothing. No led, comes on the switch, or anywhere else when I hook up the battery. Magnet does nothing. Before I just plugged it in and everything lit up and ran. My luck. If it was raning soup.. all I would be able to find is a fork! So.. I hooked the battery direct without the switch, everything lites up and runs. Tried to set up the Viper ESC , all 3 lites flashing, pushed set button, motors and servos shut off when I increased the throttle, green lite comes on.. Steady green on ADF2 push set, two blinks red then green. Nothing happens when I increase the throttle. This is the second switch that I put in that doesnt work. Not sure what the problem is. About ready to box up the whole thing and send it to the expert.

[jenels4]

I just soldered my 5A magnetic switch together. I then plugged it into the battery and nothing happened, until I took a magnet (screwdriver) across the led and it started to blink green. It works, maybe that is your problemn you need a magnet to operate it. The switched power is not connected to anything, just dangling.

[Von Hilde]

I used several magnets, that I have for my business, including a super magnet thinking that the ciramic mags dont have the power. Magnetic switch is going to Davey Jones. Waterproof toggle switch for me. Im ol skool. Back in the day we just stuck an alligator clip from the battery to the buss bar, shut the hatch, and was good to go. Clever kids took an, on off radio switch, and took the knob off and stick a gun mount or a perriscope on top.

[trout]

This is the second switch that I put in that doesnt work. Not sure what the problem is. About ready to box up the whole thing and send it to the expert.

Posting some pictures and allowing another set of eyes to see what you have done will help in diagnosing the issue.

[Von Hilde]

Old way switch in the ground circuit. Now switch in the hot wire, as per instructions with the input from the battery on the right side tab on top

[HardRock]

Looks like you've got it half right, both times. You have to connect BOTH the ground and active. There are two pads on the bottom side of the unit for the ground circuit. I've fitted three of these things and they work just fine.

[jenels4]

Aha, I see the probem with your circuit, looks like Hardrock says it, but this is it.
Place your magnetic switch with the lED facing up. The soldering pad to the right battery connections, red (+) on this side and black (-) on the other sid of that red (+) connector directly behind it.
Then your switched power will be on the bottom of the facing board with the red or + on the LED side and the negative terminal (-) of the switched side on the back.

Your LED facing circuit board should have red (+) sides on the facing your and on the otherside should be the neg (-) sides of the circuits. Top will be Battery terminals and the bottom will have the switched circuit.

Clear as mudd

[trout]

Not that I can add that much more than what was said,but it looks like you need to add just the black wire to the board. If you cut your black (- negative) and solder it to the pads on the opposite side of the red wires, you should be set.

[Von Hilde]

Not that I can add that much more than what was said,but it looks like you need to add just the black wire to the board. If you cut your black (- negative) and solder it to the pads on the opposite side of the red wires, you should be set.

Thank you kind sir,and a bravo zulu 2 U. all good!
Now on to the set up I have a stand for the driver so I can access all the stuff out of the lexan tube.

[Von Hilde]

OK on with the show. Had to step away from this project for a bit, due to to many irons in the .... ect/ Mostly personal commitments other than foolin around with the models. I had some issues with the reciever and transmitter. after looking, found the problem with the jumper ground had cold solder joint and not a solid connection. put in a new jumper and shrink wrapped it. Had to use marine black, thats all I had. used a small piece of clear on the end with the LED so I can see it. then a zip tie for a redundent, retainer.going to start from scratch hooking up the servos. The Wyfly4 channel transmitter isnt made for subs, so some interpilation of the channel and function assignments is required. The other end of the coax, I hollowed out the 1 1/4' tip of the plastic revell scope and stuck the heat shrunk tip of the coax in the tip. the scope housing is a carbon fiber fishing pole tip so no metalic interfereance.my question for today which toggles on the transmitter to use for what function on the EZ. All suggestions welcomed guys.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

OK on with the show. Had to step away from this project for a bit, due to to many irons in the .... ect/ Mostly personal commitments other than foolin around with the models. I had some issues with the reciever and transmitter. after looking, found the problem with the jumper ground had cold solder joint and not a solid connection. put in a new jumper and shrink wrapped it. Had to use marine black, thats all I had. used a small piece of clear on the end with the LED so I can see it. then a zip tie for a redundent, retainer.[ATTACH=CONFIG]31076[/ATTACH]going to start from scratch hooking up the servos. The Wyfly4 channel transmitter isnt made for subs, so some interpilation of the channel and function assignments is required. The other end of the coax, I hollowed out the 1 1/4' tip of the plastic revell scope and stuck the heat shrunk tip of the coax in the tip. the scope housing is a carbon fiber fishing pole tip so no metalic interfereance.[ATTACH=CONFIG]31077[/ATTACH]my question for today which toggles on the transmitter to use for what function on the EZ. All suggestions welcomed guys.

No toggle-switches for you, pal. You're using a four-channel receiver -- so, forget the bow planes.

Here's the stick assignments for four-channel work:

Right stick, left and right -- rudder; right stick, up and down -- stern plane; left stick, up and down -- throttle; and left stick, left and right -- ballast blow/vent.

Do not mechanically or electricaly link the bow planes to the stern planes (old school and .... wrong!).

M

[Von Hilde]

No toggle-switches for you, pal. You're using a four-channel receiver -- so, forget the bow planes.

Here's the stick assignments for four-channel work:

Right stick, left and right -- rudder; right stick, up and down -- stern plane; left stick, up and down -- throttle; and left stick, left and right -- ballast blow/vent.

Do not mechanically or electricaly link the bow planes to the stern planes (old school and .... wrong!).

M

balast blow vent? where did that go? Dynamicly speeking? no balast system ez. The kit came with 4 servoes so I already dumped one. I have 3 srvos with yelow orange and brown and the viper esc has the same . The viper lead brn orange yellow goes to ch3 throttle. I think that is correct. Servo (a) fwd stbd side has Bn Og Yel to the adf2 pitch output pins to the rear of the unit. The black red white from the front of the adf2 pitch side, go to the recievers ch 1 aileron? and the bow planes to channel2 elevator. get a red lite only on the viper indicating no signal. Cant figgure out whats wrong. The mag switch works fine now but I dont get anything when I turn it on. Use to get the flashing green red instantly on the viper esc and set it to recognise the transmtter and the ADF2, Now I get nada. No RC people within 150 miles so taking it somewhere for a younger smarter guy, is out of the question. If I were to box up the driver and transmitter packed with doubloons and nauticle paraphanelia could you QA my rat's nest? I need an excuse to go to the Tidewater area anywy. Havent had a soft shell crab sandwich in a long time.

[trout]

Photos, need photos. We can help you, maybe, but you got to give us more than some cryptic words :-)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

balast blow vent? where did that go? Dynamicly speeking? no balast system ez. The kit came with 4 servoes so I already dumped one. I have 3 srvos with yelow orange and brown and the viper esc has the same . The viper lead brn orange yellow goes to ch3 throttle. I think that is correct. Servo (a) fwd stbd side has Bn Og Yel to the adf2 pitch output pins to the rear of the unit. The black red white from the front of the adf2 pitch side, go to the recievers ch 1 aileron? and the bow planes to channel2 elevator. get a red lite only on the viper indicating no signal. Cant figgure out whats wrong. The mag switch works fine now but I dont get anything when I turn it on. Use to get the flashing green red instantly on the viper esc and set it to recognise the transmtter and the ADF2, Now I get nada. No RC people within 150 miles so taking it somewhere for a younger smarter guy, is out of the question. If I were to box up the driver and transmitter packed with doubloons and nauticle paraphanelia could you QA my rat's nest? I need an excuse to go to the Tidewater area anywy. Havent had a soft shell crab sandwich in a long time.

Sorry, Dave. Forgot you went without a ballast sub-system. Put the stern planes on the left stick, left-right direction. Put the bow planes on the right stick, up-down direction.

M

[Von Hilde]

Ok guys, I got pictures. My wife thinks I talk in code as well. Once a crypto always a krip. My Daddy always said. I assigned the channels as per Dave. The issue now is, when I turn on the power, I get a steady red on thr viper, where as before, the blinking red and green for a few seconds. At that point I pushed the set button,while still blinking and the motors and servos shut off. Went to step 2 and set theadf/fail safe button an did the throttle recognition steps. That's as far as I got, when I checked the receiver and found the cold solder ground jumper to the pin problem. Now when I turn on the power the steady red on the viper, and no lites on the fail safe or the Lopo guard or led on the receiver. Mr Holmes? Dr Watson? I took off most of the wire ties to show the routing. I suspect a polarity issue at the Rx plugs, but not sure. If that is it. As pictured the top is the led side and facing the camera.orange facing inward acording to instructions.