Revell type IX project

[Von Hilde]

I see that RTV subliminal add placement and In trouts servo post, and video. it's the adhesive of choice. Because of flexibility? Easy removal? Drilled and screwed with the ones supplied is not the way to go? I was also concerned about the bellcrank arm and liength proportional to the stops of thr rudders and planes and internal clearances of the tube as well. I'm aware of the difference in the throw on the radius of the arm from fooling with the old model airplanes. Won't be tuning anything for awhile until I get everything in place a new wired up, and get the radio. Don't know what the glitch is about that. Thought a Wfly8 75 MHz was coming with a Futaba cristaless module to make the 75 work with the 2.4Ghz receiver, but that's another horse race. Maby I should pick up a cheap 2.4ghz 4ch Tx and Rx just to get things running

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yeah, go with the 2.4gHz for right now, you can switch back to 75mHz later. Don't **** around with the pushrods right now -- first thing is to get all the devices in there and working. Only after all that would you **** around with the linkages and running gear.

This thing is WAY overpowered (your using two 380 motors!), so dial down the throttle to about 25% ahead-astern.

M

[Von Hilde]

I do have a single motor two shaft that I could use but, this driver is more than adiquate for the light revell boat, for now. It could go in one of my scratch builts,which are twice as heavy and harder to move the mass through the water. I would suspect, a reduction of prop pitch would do the same thing. Not that I would tweek them. I was thinking , if you used the plastic ones as the plug mold, then you are getting the dynamic effect of the full scale boat's, design. The full scale type IXs shaft speeds were from 470 to 490 rpm, the boats were a thousand tons or so. If you scaled that down proportionally to 1/72 it would be rediculously slow, and heavy. Hmmm 1/72 of a thousand tons....mighty heavy model ya got there Kid. What did you use for balast, an anvel?

[Von Hilde]

OK, trimmed the servo carrier, but actually should have done jus tone end slot. I am stacking them staggered due to the screw tabs on the servos overlap. I suppose they could have been removed and just used RTV to secure them, but screws are fine. The two aft are mounted a few mm higher, which lines them op level with the two center pushrods holes. This rig the will be the rudders and dive planes. The two forward will be the retract and bow crap.the one on the right is the after. Used Teflon spacers under the tabs on the aft servos to level the mount piggyback. Plenty room to operate.now there is the question,of placement of the other goodies. Lypoguard, angle driver and mission switch

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Some ideas as to device placement within the 2.5" SD after dry space:

[Von Hilde]

Are the Lypo and the Failsafe mounted on the servo block sides or just stuffed in there loose, in an empty space? I have quite a bit of room under the servo deck for things and could fab up some small mounting surfaces and wire trees to keep the stuff astheticly squared away. I see those WTCs have a lot of wire taking up space. I will try to route mine and ziptied securely bundled out of the way as much as I can. Plenty of it, left over in this shortie driver. I was diggin the teflon stepped bushing on the wire post/deck secure point of the metal deck. Insulation from the aluminium.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You could put the ADC2 under there as it has the flexibility of orientation that any angle will be OK as long as you follow Kevin's set-up instructions. But, you want to see the idiot-lights of the Lipo-Guard, so put it up heigh were you can see it. Other than that -- stick the devices anywhere you little heart desires.

M

[Von Hilde]

Roger that. Mounting the LEDs so they will be clearly visible thru the limber holes in the hull, Sir. How hard is it to take the plugs off and shorten the pig tails of the components. My eyes are ok but you shoud see the size of my fingers under the magnifier when I look at those little hold tabs, geezz!! Be advised, my Cartiologist, has a different opinion on the heart size. He refers it to being enlarged, not just big because I give him lots of money. I was looking in my sons old toy box, and found his old O Zone 3 Venom helo. Its a toy of course but is there any reason I couldnt use, the TX/RX in the Ko Hyo. Im really looking hard on the gears and counter rotating mast already just sitting there begging to be chopped off and stiffed in a can underwater. Big drawback is the Venom little Lypo power pack gives you 10 min of fun on a 90 min charge. 3.5 ch 27 Mhz. Seems odd, what is a half of a channel? Is 27 Mhz an issue? This is going in a Japanese "rottsa ruck, yankee..So solly" (one way trip) boat, mind you.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Unless you have a crimping tool and a fret of J-plug pins, you don't want to shorten the servo/device leads at the plug -- you simply cut out the three-conductor zip-wire you don't need and solder the shortened lead zip-wires together. Keep it simple. If you got the room to cram the long leads into the SD, then do so. Yes, I know this flies against convention -- but today's receivers are so selective that all the spaghetti in there harms them not in the least.

Yeah, use the 27mHz gear. That band is OK now as the trucker and other CB idiots have discovered cell-phones.

M

[Von Hilde]

With a Y connection jumper can you run fore and aft dive planes servos off one channel? Inversley One servo multiple push rods. These Power HD1550a servos, have about a pound of torque according to the hype. Should be capable of handling the load. Just ordered the WFLY 4 ch and compatable receiver, so Im hoping ths one gets here soon and I can get to soldering with my new tip and reading glasses

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

DO NOT OPERATE THE BOW AND STERN PLANES OFF A COMMON SERVO-CHANNEL!!!!! Use the stern planes to control angle (and by extension, depth if they are the only ones you're using). Use the bow planes/fairwater planes to fine-tune depth.

You people!

M

[Von Hilde]

He! He Ha! Hoo Yah! We da people yo mamma warned you about. {Pegging the foolish question meter, with a grinn.} WILCO the instructions and suggestions as per. your guidance.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You feed 'em; clothe 'em; raise 'em right; send them to school, and what do they do? ... they eat the ****ing Teacher!

M

[Von Hilde]

MMMM Miss Sullivans Senior year French, and Home Room. I'd would have eaten that Cougar's stew in a New York minuite. About the switch on the Viper ESC. Is that replaced with the magnetic mission switch?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

MMMM Miss Sullivans Senior year French, and Home Room. I'd would have eaten that Cougar's stew in a New York minuite. About the switch on the Viper ESC. Is that replaced with the magnetic mission switch?

Cut off the slide-switch to the Viper ESC and short the two wires together. The mission switch isolates the entire electical system and is located in series with the battery -- when it's 'on', everything is on. When it's 'off' everything is off. Use either a toggle or Kevin's magnetically actuated latching-relay circuit.

Wire things up like this, Dave: