Revell type IX project

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  • crazygary
    Captain
    • Sep 2012
    • 610

    #31
    Good to see you back in the "con", Sir!!

    Take good care of that "ticker"!! No viable "aftermarket" parts out there!

    CG

    Comment

    • Von Hilde
      Rear Admiral
      • Oct 2011
      • 1245

      #32
      Originally posted by crazygary
      Good to see you back in the "con", Sir!!

      Take good care of that "ticker"!! No viable "aftermarket" parts out there!

      CG
      Thanks Gary, No fires up by you? My son in San Diego lives out by Mirmar, Scripps Ranch area, had one across the highway from his house. He's in the Navy, underway on a cruiser back to SD should be back tomorrow. My other son lives in Oceano by Pismo and they had one the other day just over the mountin. They say people are setting them randomly all over.

      Comment

      • Von Hilde
        Rear Admiral
        • Oct 2011
        • 1245

        #33
        decided to not make dummy balast tank tops for the main part of the hull. Just make the actual tanks. So after a month or so of recovering from my last heart malfunction, Im back to work on the Type IX. I spent quite a bit of recovery time looking at the disecting and restoration pictures of the U534. and the blueprints cross sections to get the general idea of positioning and shape of the main and forward and aft sections. At this point I was thinking how easy it eould be to make them actually operational. Just hinge the flood gates and a bit of creative plumbing with some of that hospital O2 nose piece tubing I snagged on the way out the door. I even got some extra "T"s and "L" bows from the very friendly nurse. She said dont worry, Medicare will cover it. Aint that Ah Merika. Anyway I use the models bulkheads to get the shape of the tank for that particular section. Inside diameter of the hull will be 51mm a tad over 2" so a driver can be inserted thru the aft opening of the hull. Click image for larger version

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        • greenman407
          Admiral
          • Feb 2009
          • 7530

          #34
          Go Getum Sir! And uh....no more heart malfunctions.
          IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

          Comment

          • Von Hilde
            Rear Admiral
            • Oct 2011
            • 1245

            #35
            heres the general idea, whats happining. Im cutting out about a million braces from the tank tops to the gunnels, for the abeam storage compartments for torpedos and schnorkle ect. This will take some time. The overhead to the fwd torpedo room with the hatch opening is just mocked up for positioning. Iwont glue the hull together untill I place all the braces and fwd dive plane gear assembly.Click image for larger version

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            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
              Moderator
              • Aug 2008
              • 12363

              #36
              You, sir, are bat-**** crazy!

              M
              Who is John Galt?

              Comment

              • Von Hilde
                Rear Admiral
                • Oct 2011
                • 1245

                #37
                Marching to the beat of a different drum isnt crazy. Everybody else is out of step. The only reason Im not is because I AM, one of the damn drummers. The U 534 pictures that were taken during the restoration are a wealth of info on whats up below deck on the IXC. Not that many people that build the kit actually know what all the functions of the hatches were or care either. Theres a few detail freeks, however, that like to dig a little deaper and go the extra klik on their project that lurk around here. the picture of the forward part of the pressure hull on 534 after the majority of the deck bracing and plates removed. The fwd torpedo loading hatch, the mount for the anchor winch, the mounts for the twin air tanks on the top of the fwd balast tanks. Also shows the different virticle backing braces for the gunnels Click image for larger version

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ID:	91959this is an earlier view of the bow. before they started to remove all the old rusty deck plating and supports, but you can see the differance in the bracing between the sectiond of abeam storage compartments. The area that Im concerned with is the top of the torpedo room, just forward of the temporary visitors observation deck. Ill be working on this areas layout Click image for larger version

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ID:	91975 torpedo room overhead with forward escape hatch. I will be installing all the compressed air bottles and various plumbing anchor chain, winch ect before installing the rest of the various ceoss bracing between the ribs to support the decking. This is the part that usually doesnt work out so accurately. The reason being the rivetts that are on the hull that fasten each rib from the keel to the top of the gunnels dont line up with the corrisponding angle iron deck support beams on the decks. There are discrepancies with the plastic Revell components as well as the Photoetch decks. Not an easy fix, but not such a big deal to have to interpolate to give the appearance of simetricle uniformity. I just wont put a crossbrace thru an opening for a hatch. "If ya cant bedazzel em with brilliance, baffel em with bullspit" That aint the way the Master Chief said it, exactily, but You get the idea. Smoke and mirrors Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by Von Hilde; 08-26-2014, 05:26 AM.

                Comment

                • Von Hilde
                  Rear Admiral
                  • Oct 2011
                  • 1245

                  #38
                  I got the Nautilus models wood pe deck set, and I must say its a fine representation of the real thing and at a reasonable price as well.Click image for larger version

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ID:	92002all the hatches line up with the stuff on top of the pressure hull. Torpedo loading and crews escape hatches as well as the compressed air bottles and their emergency blow access hatches. Now I will be plumbing the air lines and adding the winch assembly and various containers that go under the hatches in the decks for ammo storage, main mount for the 105 and other predominent stuff like external torpedo storage, ect. The top of the pressure hull aft of the forward loading hatch and crews hatch is removable to access the pushrod connection for the dive planes. This model will be a static display but can be equipped with a driver, if I so desire. I am going to augment the wood with some brass hatches from the Eduard set as well as some odd bits from CZ set. Armorment will be a various conglomorate of things in "the 1:72 box" yet to be determined

                  Comment

                  • Von Hilde
                    Rear Admiral
                    • Oct 2011
                    • 1245

                    #39
                    update on the type IX project. or projects as it has become. I have decided to build a pair, one static displey and one operational as I have ended up with two hulls. and numerous decks and PE sets. Now I have scratch built another type IX tower (term-2) using the revell as a guide, copied the basic structure from aluminium. It has a simulated wood deck from the Nautilus set to go with the natural wood deck. The wood decks are too prity to get wet and warped so its going on the display hull. The Revell tower has the brass PE for the wet boat. The "Twin Towers" Click image for larger version

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                    • Von Hilde
                      Rear Admiral
                      • Oct 2011
                      • 1245

                      #40
                      Some new work from the revell type IXs "Bunker" The hull with the balast tanks will be a static display with wood decks and lots of PE stuff. This is a spare hull I got from Revell. Just the four pieces, no bulkheads or decks. I will be putting the EZ driver thats being built on another thread, into a basiclly out of the box hull. The new Caswell fittings kit that I ordered will be incorperated as well. First thing to do is open most of the flood holes in the kit. This particular hull I used two drill bits. X acto knife and a few jewelers files with some medium fine sandpaper. I started by drilling out the area to be removed Click image for larger version

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ID:	93249then cutting out the sections between the drilled holes, then using the files to get close to the scuppers. Finally sanding the insides smooth. I may not open the 28 bottom flood holes as they are not really functional in the operation. Plenty holes to let water in and out for the model.The decks will be P/E brass whichis all open as well.Click image for larger version

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ID:	93250 All under the watchfull eye of His Royal Highness, Her Kaloin: Tigger Jiggs, who seems to be pre occupied at the moment. I think the bowl was empty and he had an attitude that I was buisy doing something other than the normal routene. Wasnt a notice in his P.O.D.
                      Last edited by Von Hilde; 01-19-2015, 02:03 PM.

                      Comment

                      • Von Hilde
                        Rear Admiral
                        • Oct 2011
                        • 1245

                        #41
                        OK! Its Radio time! Before I blindly go jump in feet first, should I get the WFLY8 75mhz and reciever for my primary radio to use with the EZ as well as the SAS on my big scale boats? Or are we talking apples and oranges, and just go with 2 seperate systems, lo and hi freek, respectivley?

                        Comment

                        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                          Moderator
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 12363

                          #42
                          Originally posted by Von Hilde
                          OK! Its Radio time! Before I blindly go jump in feet first, should I get the WFLY8 75mhz and reciever for my primary radio to use with the EZ as well as the SAS on my big scale boats? Or are we talking apples and oranges, and just go with 2 seperate systems, lo and hi freek, respectivley?
                          The Wfly 75mHz gear is no longer available. And with its loss, we loose the ability to operate our r/c model submarines deep. What you will find (other than used EBay gear -- still some stuff out there) is that all the commercially available stuff is now 2.4gHz. Which, disgustingly, is the resonate frequency of water! The RF energy is spent trying to heat the water, so no RF energy is left to reach the submerged antenna. Tango Foxtrot!

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ID:	93328 However, I now include in our SAS and Easy SD's an alternative antenna extension kit, for those wishing to use the 2.4gHz r/c system aboard the model submarine. This 2.4gHz antenna kit permits you to run the very short UHF antenna up high on the models sail -- permitting you to run at periscope depth, but no deeper: the instant the antenna dunks underwater, the signal between transmitter and receiver is lost, the ESC stops the motor and the model either fail-safes to the surface or the slightly buoyant submerged trimmed boat rises till its antenna is once again above the surface of the water.

                          M
                          Who is John Galt?

                          Comment

                          • Von Hilde
                            Rear Admiral
                            • Oct 2011
                            • 1245

                            #43
                            Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
                            The Wfly 75mHz gear is no longer available. And with its loss, we loose the ability to operate our r/c model submarines deep. What you will find (other than used EBay gear -- still some stuff out there) is that all the commercially available stuff is now 2.4gHz. Which, disgustingly, is the resonate frequency of water! The RF energy is spent trying to heat the water, so no RF energy is left to reach the submerged antenna. Tango Foxtrot!

                            [ATTACH=CONFIG]29783[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]29784[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]29785[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]29786[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]29787[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]29788[/ATTACH] However, I now include in our SAS and Easy SD's an alternative antenna extension kit, for those wishing to use the 2.4gHz r/c system aboard the model submarine. This 2.4gHz antenna kit permits you to run the very short UHF antenna up high on the models sail -- permitting you to run at periscope depth, but no deeper: the instant the antenna dunks underwater, the signal between transmitter and receiver is lost, the ESC stops the motor and the model either fail-safes to the surface or the slightly buoyant submerged trimmed boat rises till its antenna is once again above the surface of the water.

                            M
                            I already sent for the ez electronics kit, so the only thing I need for the type IX project would be the little 4 channel 2.4 ghz, correct? I will address powering up the big boats later. Just want to get the first one wet and simple, as possible. I can always swap out drivers and go full Monte' static with torpedo kit and detailed weapons, after Im done.

                            Comment

                            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                              Moderator
                              • Aug 2008
                              • 12363

                              #44
                              Originally posted by Von Hilde
                              I already sent for the ez electronics kit, so the only thing I need for the type IX project would be the little 4 channel 2.4 ghz, correct? I will address powering up the big boats later. Just want to get the first one wet and simple, as possible. I can always swap out drivers and go full Monte' static with torpedo kit and detailed weapons, after Im done.
                              Yup. But, I believe you get the 8-channel receiver when you buy the 8-channel 'computer' Wfly transmitter.

                              M
                              Who is John Galt?

                              Comment

                              • trout
                                Admiral
                                • Jul 2011
                                • 3549

                                #45
                                If you buy the WFT08 the back has a module that you can swap out for a hitech or futaba crystal-less module. Then you can change channels all day long to match your subs. I do not know how much stock is left at sub-driver.com, but it is a nice radio and has a lot of features packed into it.
                                If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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