Revell type IX project

[Von Hilde]

And the shill's on the strip pulling you into the store to sign their 'buddy-book'. And how receptive the city was to anyone in uniform ('dogs and sailor's, keep off the grass').

After graduation I went to BE&E school there. Snow piled high outside, the class-rooms were so hot. You could hear the constant cracking of the steam radiators that were everywhere. It was a task to stay awake! I learned how to use the Simpson 260 multi-meter and how to throw a charged electrolitic capaciter at someone you didn't get along with.

Decades later I was horribly shocked to learn that the ditti we got stuck in our heads by our BE&E Instructors, used to remember resistor color-number codes, was not approved of socially (after repeating it at an IPMS meeting). **** 'em!

David

BE&E is co ed now so Ill bet they dont ues that language since Ellmo Zummwalt retired. I wonder how many of those girls drop out cause of pregnancy. My Sisters 2 daughters were WAVES and now her grand daughter just graduated from the Crip acadamy, that may be where you got the idea me being a CT, I may have mentioned it on this forum in the past. She would be my Grand Niece PO2 Both Nieces were in Deser, shield /storm and Iraqui freedom, respectively and told me half the girls on the auxiliry ships and amfibbs got pergo just to get off the ship and stateside. Use to be wooden ships and Iron men Now there Carbon fiber ships and women sailors going around with their dungeree shirts untucked and a light duty chit. No coveralls for light duty and now the BDUs hide the belly . So, I wonder if the center of gravity on the Revell type IX on the kits using the stock plastic deck is universally the same. Then the differance with the all brass deck with weight and distribution of them onthe same hull.The actual center of the boat is the section of the hull where the Obs (FWD) perriscope is, but center of gravity or ballance is where the flak gun position is on the wintergarden. At least thats what I find when using the stock parts.At this point I will put the other type IX's outfitting and such on hold. and finish this and go ahead and use all plastic detail, guns, ect from the kit with the exception of the prop guards and such already in place.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It's been my experience that female types aboard ship are worse than useless. And what a horrible distraction they are when, as the **** hits the fan, men start reacting to screaming, dying females instead of fighting the ship like they're supposed to. The Israeli's learned that awful lesson the hard way when, in the beginning, they had no choice but to put everyone on the front-line.

Females ARE NOT men. Thank God for that. You start treating them like men, then they stop being females. No civilized nation, that has enough men to wear the uniform, should put their women in harms way intentionally! Get those top-heavy sailor's off the flight-decks, get them out of the fighters, get them off the submarines, and get them the hell away from any front-line fighting ship. Put 'em in the rear with the beer and the gear, where they will be safe and won't distract the men.

The plastic deck displaces about its own weight of water. So, with or without it the net change to submerged trim is nil. The PE deck displaces about 1/4 the water the plastic deck does, and weighs less than the plastic deck. I bet you need more foam for a model using PE stuff than the original plastic. When you find out, let us know -- we all can learn something.

You have the longitudinal component of the c.g. near the center of the hull (center of the sail). Good enough.

(if Ellie reads this post, I'm a dead man!)

M

[Von Hilde]

Edit same, over. You got the power to delete all but the unclassified advice.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

LOL. I'll take my chances. What could possibly happen? Something terrible, like the SC kicking me off their site? Again.

M

[Von Hilde]

LOL. I'll take my chances. What could possibly happen? Something terrible, like the SC kicking me off their site? Again.

M

Sometimes being kicked out of a place is way better than being thrown into one. Do the letters, November Kilo, Tango Foxtrot, mean anything to you? Here's a little sumpinsumpin to entertaincoolie cups for tall beer can are a great source of balast foam. Already contoured, just cut out panels, or in this case, perfect fit for a 2.5 tube. Definitely will put a whole one or two in the Ko, but I will line the inside of the hull on this boat.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sometimes being kicked out of a place is way better than being thrown into one.

Indeed. One door closes, many doors open.

But, enough about me. You got that sucker wet yet?

M

[Von Hilde]

Indeed. One door closes, many doors open.

But, enough about me. You got that sucker wet yet?

M

Yessir in and out like a fiddlers elbow tho. Issues with stern planes and rudders. Bow planes are fine. I have some fine tuning to do aft. How can I get the rudder assembly only from the fittings kit? I used the one from the kit in the other hull's stern and ripped my home made metal one from the Combat models POS, Worked fine in that application, Revell, Not so much. Stern plane issue is with the pushrod binding inside the driver, no problem there. can fix that when I pull the driver to paint the model and stick on all the little tid bits (most likely break off with handling during tweek down/shake down) I did the weigh in of the PE vs Plastic decks. Initially the PE is lighter, but after soldering, and re enforcement latterally underneath the weight piles on. With the plastic, you can attach foam under the deck in places, which is as high as you can get. I didnt glue my foam in yet, it's just taped in place, so Im going to fiddle around with placement and piecing asheticlly as well as functionality, this week. Gotta look good when it's commissioned. Next few days I have some committments up in Naples and Coral Gables, to attend to and will be on the road tomorrow AM till Wednsday night.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You send me your address. That's how.

dmeriman@aol.com

Remove the stern plan SD pushrod. Run a 1/16" drill bit into the stern plane pushrod seal bore and as it rotates impose a circular skewing of the bit. This will produce an hour-glass shaped bore ahead and astern of the encapsulated O-ring. Won't cut the O-ring, it will simply squirt away from the drill flutes. Doing this will solve the binding problem (the left-right translation as the servo bell-crank rotates) . Reinstall the SD stern plane pushrod.

M

[Von Hilde]

You send me your address. That's how.

dmeriman@aol.com

Remove the stern plan SD pushrod. Run a 1/16" drill bit into the stern plane pushrod seal bore and as it rotates impose a circular skewing of the bit. This will produce an hour-glass shaped bore ahead and astern of the encapsulated O-ring. Won't cut the O-ring, it will simply squirt away from the drill flutes. Doing this will solve the binding problem (the left-right translation as the servo bell-crank rotates) . Reinstall the SD stern plane pushrod.

M

Got it, had to tweek the seal, plug for the coax the same way. E backatcha thanks

[Von Hilde]

Back in the bunker and starting to detale this mess, finally the fun part. Starting at the bow, the Revell boat, just doesn't look right. The hole in the tip is too small and the top is too flat and sharp chine. So a little grinding and some filling and fileing, is in order. At this point I will incorporate a deck securing point, other than a magnet.using the wallorisating instruments, I wallered out the hole area at the hull tip and under the deck. Fiberglass fishing rod tip, slight tapered section, inserted and marked for trimming.incerted in the hull,some ca and place the foredeck until dry,fill and file contour and slide in to secure, ready for paint.

[redboat219]

What's "wallorisating"?

[Von Hilde]

What's "wallorisating"?

Wallerising is a brand new, Southernmost, American word I made up today>To wollow something out: is a hillbilly expression basiclly means to champfer out a linebored hole to add curf or taper. Hole was streight and the rod was tapered, so I matched em up for a sung fit. I knew if I used that word, it would draw a querry from someone. Waller out, the push rod hole on either side of the bulkhead without dammaging the seal, as so to eliminate binding, is what I was told by, Sir Obiwan Mc Meriman III, the ancient submarine guru, to do. previously. Im still looking for a round tewett for that step. Stay tuned.. soon come mon

[Von Hilde]

One other little gizmo to add in the tool box now. Should be able to drill a few things with a little more precision.

[Von Hilde]

Detailing this model, is where I will have to decide on the perameters of how much detail. Since this is a "toy" so to speek and subject to use and abuse, I dont want to spend the money for the brass PE stuff that will brake or fall off. I figgure the salt water on the brass will compromise the CA, and those little wheels, cross hair sights, and hinges on the little guns will be Neptunes plunder. The first thing is to tone down some rivetts. Not as much as they should be, to look to scale, but I always thought Revell's were too large and pronounced. If you look at some of the close up pictures of the U-505 they are hardly visible in compairison with the weldseams being dominate. I put a scale sailor next to the rivetts and noticed they were bigger than his eye and pronounced, as deep as the socket. So some light sanding on the large rivetts, taking care not to hit the small double seam rivetts or the weld seams to much. Initally I painted the waterline down flat black primer for deffinition. Final color scheme for this boat is still undecided. I have done quite a bit of research on what boats were painted what colors at different periods of service. Cammo is always a dynamic dazzeler for the GP. Period correct may be boaring to some. Late war just about everything was black or schwartzgrau Dark grey. Schliktgrau was widely used on type IXs after 44 in most theaters of operations. That is dark grey with some olive green tint. Up in the Baltic and North seas the splinter 3 tone grey was common. AMP has a really good PDF on U boat paint colors and markings as a guide. The true colors are going to have to be interpilated, because the old color pictures arnt Kodakrome or anything like it. But its a good place to start.

[Von Hilde]

Decided to use the scratch built tower, rather than the Revell. The scratch built is mostly aluminium sheet and copper and brass wire. The original, has the PE deck. They are interchangeable, so it isn't a big deal to swap them out with the other boat. Samo Samo samo with the EZ driver. First thing was to weather the deck. I used the Revell piece for a template and cut a piece of mahagoney sheet that I milled off of a 3 x6 board. This is the base of the lower gun deck. I used the sticker back vaneer tower decks that was supplied with the Nautilus wood deck set for the type IX. This was meant to stick on the plastic decks supplied with the Revell kit, to simulate and augment, the real wood hull deck. I don't know why the Nautilus company did that. The wood hull deck is an excelant piece of PE work, and the tower decks are just fancy stickers. I am saving the wood hull decks for a display boat, but was going to toss the stickers. If they get compromised when they get wet, it's no problem, since they aren't worth saving to begin with. So, they look ok, but needed some wear. I stained them first with colonial maple, to give them the look of skotz pine. That's the type of wood used on almost all U boats. The little teak that was imported early in the war, went to the Bismark and Trippetz battle ships, U bootarm didn't get squat. The decks of the U boats were treated with a mixture of coal dust and diesel fuel. This was a preservation process, as well as camouflage. Preservation from alge growth, which made the decks slippery, and other marine life that would attach itself to the boat. Cammo wise, it helped somewhat due to the fact the light colors of the raw wood just under the surface show up a bright lite green visible for miles from the air. I took some charcoal, artist type not Kingsford, although that might work, with the instant light kind, and give it authentic smell, as well. I mixed it with some linseed oil to a paste and brushed it all black. While still wet I rubbed it off slightly to bring back some wood color. Then rubbed harder with a clean dry rag where there would be foot traffic by the ladders and guns.