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I will be addressing the fittings kit now that the hull pieces have the limber holes opened up. Shaft holes and relieving some plastic for the clearance of the shaft bushing. Dive planes and rudders holes need drilling as well. I penciled in the outline for the shaft fairings, then drilled and cut the elongated holes, then filed and sanded. Using the shaft for checking clearances, there was initially a small issue with the set screw in the bushing stop, extended past, flush. This was corrected by grinding an additional flat spot on the shaft to accomidate the screw deeper.
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Last edited by Von Hilde; 02-11-2015, 07:19 AM. -
Is the oil lite bearing glued in place?Comment
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The aft dive planes, bell crank, that comes with the kit is going to be an issue with the salt water, due to dissimilar metals corrosion. I am using stainless bycycle spokes for rhe pushrods and a simple piece of flat brass with square hole filed to fit the square tubing. You dont have to remove so much plastic on the hull. The brass and stainless are not so corrosive as the zink and steel of the cast bellcrank. I may put some waterproof graphite lube from my fishing reels in the slot after assembly, just for good measure.Comment
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The bearing I would secure it. Use baking powder and CA or RTV rubber.
If you are worried about dissimilar metals, why not use a brass push rod?
None of my subs did I apply lubricant on the bell cranks. You take the time to make sure you do not have binding. Adding a lube in such a tight area, can lead to gunk build up. How accessible will that area be once the sub is together? On the otherhand, running in salt water a silicon lube might help reduce the effects of corrosion (a little), but that could also be negated by a great flushing of fresh water, like you would with dive gear.
Looking good by the way! You are blazing the trail for the rest of us!If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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The push rods arnt the issue with the corrosion. I just have a bunch of s/s spokes that I use for lots of push rod aplications. The little bell crank on the square tubing for the rear planes has a steel screw witha cast /threaded bell crank made of soft aloy which acts as a magnet to electrolosis. Its in the wet part of the hull, no way to seal it. If that little screw pulls loose from where its threaded (not completely around the screw, sides are open) You would have to split the hull to fix it. The lube is made especially for salt water reels. Its thick and white. No funk can get in there with the lube, Its water repellant as well.Comment
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Would replacing that steel grub screw with a ss one help help?If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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I received the electronics kit for the EZ driver yesterday. I hope the driver shows up today so I can get started assembling the goodies. Not sure where everything goes since I dont see any assembly instructions included. I have a general idea, from pictures on the products page, but a tutorial would be nice, with the warnings of pitfalls and assembly sequence. I guess I may be the Guinea pig and will document this for posterity with assembly pictures.Comment
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No mail came Fri the 13th or Valentines day and of course no mail on Sunday or Presidents day on Monday, Mardi Gras is Fat Tuesday a holiday for the insane folks, like myself, Catholic holiday is Ash Wednsday gotta give up some leisre time up for Lent. then If the mail lady is from Hong Kong, of course she wont show up because of the Chinese New Year on Thursday. Realised there arnt any dog bones included in the fittings kit or the EZ kit, so they are ordered as well as extra brass push rods and spare prop shafts. Ive been buisy putting in the rudders and gears and such. First thing is, I mocked it up, with out tightning the set screws, so I could mark the shafts where to file the flat spots, so as not to over torque the allen screws in the resin parts, threaded holes and strip the resin. The allen screws have a rounded tip and do not hold tight on the round brass rod. Small square tip jewelers file does the job.I got everything hooked up with the spoke pushrods and working freely and full diflection with the rudders and rear planes. I will be using the original rear hull section that I modified and detailed the below deck torpedo storage and loading hatch area. I finished up the aft torpedo room bulkhead and made my own prop shaft bearing carrage. I wont be gluing the oilite bushing, so they can be easily replaced, along with prop shafts and props. This boat will have a removable stearn, and the driver will be accessed thru the rear of the hull as well as thru removable decks. As y'all are aware I am putting together two seperate hulls with interchangable parts. One will end up with the EZ driver and the other will be static, but capable of accepting whatever system I come up with.
while I was fiddling around I fabricated the lower prop guard out of brass and copper soldered up using the measurements of the Revell plastic one. Should be a bit more sturdy
little bondo and some sanding and paint should be good to go
Last edited by Von Hilde; 02-15-2015, 03:01 PM.Comment
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Built this a little stronger. The copper cones are 7.62 M-60 bullets cut tips off, cut tail off,drilled out shaft holes in the lead core of the round. The actual measurements of the 1/72 scale cone are 7.25x13mm. I just cut the rounds to match. I utilize quite a bit of ammunition in building stuff.The prop guard post, is a 22cal L R, shell pressed to a taper with a brass tab soldered. After assemble the body filler take care of the details. Since I have a spare hull with no other kit parts, I had to scratch build a complete shaft housing and acutriments, so I overbuilt with metal. Brass tubing for the housing and sheet aluminum for the covers.
Attached FilesLast edited by Von Hilde; 03-03-2015, 08:27 AM.Comment
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EZ driver kit came, now I have to figure out what goes where. First I have to mount ......???? Oh! Yeah, it's like my first parachute jump, jump master said"there's the door, grab that little handle, count to 10 and pull it". I grabbed the handle and said"one..two," and before I said three he booted me in the ass out the door. Still no radio, or dog bones or extra prop shafts that I ordered, so I can't do any operational checks. I suppose servos and push rod placement would be appropriate.Rudders and planes pushrods first, I utilized the two, top center holes. The serves go in the rack, I would assume, but not sure of the optimal placement. The way pictured seems logicle, but the wires, routed thru the horizontal slots, would get pinched if screws were tightened down, to where the box is flush in the rack. Enlarging the slot a bit lower in the rack, would be in order. On the other hand, a 5 mm spacer block under the servo will do the trick.
that is if it's recommended. At this point, I will take any suggestions
Last edited by Von Hilde; 03-04-2015, 06:27 AM.Comment
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Looks like your using the larger 'mini' sized servoes. Yes, trim the plastic servo foundation as required. Keep the base of the servo on the aluminum tray -- trim back the mounting tabs to clear the servo leads.
Convention puts the rudder servo on the port side, forward; bow plane port side, aft; the retract servo starboard, forward; and the stern plane servo starboard side, aft.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Thanks. Dave, that should give me someting to do this afternoon, as soon as I fix the dishwasher and the kitchen sink. Got to go to Home Depo way up across the 7 mile bridge. Normally a tedious drive to begin with, but its Spring Brake and Bike Week. Theres been several head ons this past week with drunk kids and bikers. They close the thing untill they clean up the mess. Dot want to get stuck out there today. Same distance going to Key West H D same traffic, but its the destination for all of em, and parking downtown is a trip nowdays. Coin toss, just like pickin a line at the Winn Dixie. Usually the wrong one of courseComment
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I cut out the aluminum tray under each servo. That allowed me to drop the height of the servo arm. If you want to try that look at this link: http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...72-Gato/page18If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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