Well, I got the 2mm blocks. Too small to even drill.So I went hunting for some a bit bigger. 5mm single shieve, drilled, and from different source. While talking to the guy on the phone he directed me to mini brass turnbuckles he has that actually work. Starting at 12mm overall, 17mm and 22mm. Perfect to secure and tighten cables. Hobby World in Maryland. Nice slection of ship fittings and such, Model Kits as well
Revell type IX project
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I was having issues with the stern planes travel due to limited throw of the pushrod. I added a bell crank assembly to get full deflection. I used a few odd things that I have, such as some costume jewelry pierced earrings pieces. The little rubber backing stops are great to secure pushrods. The brass guitar string stops make bushings for all sorts of things. In this case the rod that the bellcrank is on. The earring backs will keep the crank centered, as well as secure the rod to the dive plane arm.Last edited by Von Hilde; 06-06-2015, 12:45 PM.Comment
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Back on the project of the rigging. Borrowing several ideas from various sources(HNSNBN) for one. SanDiego Merritime Museum's model shop guys another. I will be using guitar strings as a wire source, and small wood blocks, for the insulators. Initially, I oredred some resin blocks the size of the Revell oem, which is about 2 mm. Unfortunately the picture in the catalog was a much larger scale or size and showed the holes. The ones I got had no holes and were too small to drill. So, one step back and two leaps forward. I found 5 mm wood, single purchase blocks. A bit over scale, but they will be trimmed. The wood blocks are squared off somewhat and the U Boat insulators were more rounded. Trimming the wood after gluing to the wire, it can be stained and clear coated ot painted the various colors that some boats had.5mm wood blocks.60mm bit, drill a linear holebronze wound steel core guitar string, G string, .023" or .05mm. CA in position.Last edited by Von Hilde; 06-13-2015, 08:58 AM.Comment
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I was having issues with the stern planes travel due to limited throw of the pushrod. I added a bell crank assembly to get full deflection. I used a few odd things that I have, such as some costume jewelry pierced earrings pieces. The little rubber backing stops are great to secure pushrods. The brass guitar string stops make bushings for all sorts of things. In this case the rod that the bellcrank is on. The earring backs will keep the crank centered, as well as secure the rod to the dive plane arm.[ATTACH=CONFIG]31551[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31552[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31553[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]31556[/ATTACH]
What a great idea. I'm off to pull some guitar strings to bits. How are you going to keep your earrings on now, by the way?Comment
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only got one big ring. no back. it was soldered together on the ear. The hot gold caterised the bigger hole I poked with the Ice pick. Im on a blood thinner for my bad ticker. Have to stop the bleeding some how. Super glue doesent always do the job. CA and pac of sweet and low is good for sucking chest wounds and various bullett holes and stab wounds till you get to the wagon ride to the ERComment
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only got one big ring. no back. it was soldered together on the ear. The hot gold caterised the bigger hole I poked with the Ice pick. Im on a blood thinner for my bad ticker. Have to stop the bleeding some how. Super glue doesent always do the job. CA and pac of sweet and low is good for sucking chest wounds and various bullett holes and stab wounds till you get to the wagon ride to the ER
Ahhh... sucking chest wounds. God's way of telling you that your camouflage was not up to scratch! Tampons work well too.Comment
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yeah, but there too bouyant for underwater ops, if the wrapper is compromised they swell up, if there ok makes the first aid kit rip off the mollygear and pop up like a marker buoy. worse than bubbles marking your pos---{over}click click BTW its bad enuff if you have to go buy them for your wife. Immagine standing in line at the Base Exchange and saying, "Oh, these are for me"Comment
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Starting with the forward jumper, harness. Used a stiff piece of wire, that fit snug in the holes I drilled the long way, on the wood blocks. Slipped them on the wire to hold steady while sanding the basic shape with the dremmel. Then used a nail file to clean it up.some of the grooves on the blocks get sanded away and have to have the grove gently cut wit a small sawglued the appropriate ammount of blocks on the guitar string. Stained the blocks. I also put the forward mini turnbuckle on the forward part of the main jumper.attached it by stripping some of thr bronze wrap, and bending a loop on the end of the steel wire. Put it thru the turnbuckle hole and re wrapped the bronze wire, like the factory puts the brass stops in the end of the string. These turnbuckles work just like the big ones, rotate the center bar, one way,it opens, the other way tightens. Small pin hole in the barrel to stick a scribe or pin to operate. I like the dang things so much, I bought a bunch of em in different sizes. Not just for rigging, but immiagine having adjustable trim tabs on a race boat or spoiler on a car. I can picture a 40mm that expands to70mm, sideways in the bow of boat that has retractable bow planes. A simple gear on the barrel to rotate. My Ko hyoteki will have a couple in the rigging wire for sure.Last edited by Von Hilde; 06-15-2015, 02:02 PM.Comment
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Dayammm!! Just a smidgen too big. I calculate them to be around 1/64th scale. I should have sanded the blocks a little more. I will use these for something, if nothing else but a lesson or two. (a) a how to fabricate, lesson. (b)the, use a ruler, dummy! measure 3 or four times and cut once...or twice. Actually, I can use them on this boat, stand off scale. Tower wont wash away on this bad boy, when I get done. On the ocean, there is no such thing as "Overbuilt". Revell's rivetts are out of scale, but at 20 feet away in the open water any critics would have to have eagle eyes, and know as much as my Unkal Karl about the boat. I ordered two more packs of single shieve blocks. 3mm and 4 mm resin and wood respectively. I should have it right with one of them. Meanwhile there is plenty of d-tail duty TCBLast edited by Von Hilde; 06-17-2015, 08:36 AM.Comment
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Fathers Day, I had "honey dew" Immunity, Woo Woo! Like a kid in a candy store, didn't know what project to grab first. I did get to play with the rigging on the type IX some. I got a bunch of small wood blocks from 2mm up, just to have in the bin. Made up a smaller harness with 4 mm the same way as the 5 mm, by drilling longitudinal holes to pass the wire thru. Then use thread to wrap.Tedious even with the hand drill. After wasting a few blocks learning how to drill without splitting one, the 4 mm will be used for this boat. For extra security from wash away, which happens with this boat. Most likely because wide open its almost on a plane. Reprogram the speed controler to half throttle will take care of that. Static models will get the 3mm which are close to the Revell, which are the black ones. pictured on top. They will be rigged with armature wire since the holes are way to small to try to use fabric thread. Then spliced to the guitar string jumpper. This project sure has been a learning curve. Sometimes I dont slow down for curves and end up drifting around on the edge of spinning out. Well, like my Dad always told me," it aint about the destination, its the ride!"Last edited by Von Hilde; 06-22-2015, 06:36 AM.Comment
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