Revell type IX project

[redboat219]

Regarding the 10A fuse from the esc to the motor, with a twin motor set up like the Type VII and IX do you have to install one with each motor or use a common one?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Regarding the 10A fuse from the esc to the motor, with a twin motor set up like the Type VII and IX do you have to install one with each motor or use a common one?

Just one. Move the fuse in series with the battery -- this then protects the entire system from a short/over-load.

M

[Von Hilde]

Thats a BLIVET. to me. 10 pounds of X in a Y pound bag, with a Z as the diminishing factor. Navy had its own saying as you remember. Its like the drawing for the B 29 and I got a Curtis Jenney. With only the 4 ch TX/RX with the EZ with no LPB or balast I put the lypo and failsafe in line with the angle keeper on the stern planes. Can I run two servos of the same command, but just run the bow planes out of the failsafe and angle keeper circuit? If not I can pull one servo out and no bow planes. Also no 10 amp in the electircs kit, so a trip to the store for heat shrink tubes and some RTV and an allen wrench or two. 3 stores actually, no two on the same island either. Gotta charge the phone and pack a lunch.

[Von Hilde]

Opps, belay my last, wind is laid down, gotta go gas up the boat, just found out no Y connecter in my electronics to bus the little volts and amp kids to work. Suppose to be in the inventory. I'll figgure it out and Adapt, Improvise and Overcome after I eat the fish we get this afternoon, I can get he RTV at the marina, so one out of 3 aint bad

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Now, wait a minute, Dave ...

... you only need that Y-lead if you are using the SAS system (in which case the Y-lead drives the ballast sub-system servo and low pressure blower off the same receiver channel), and you are using the Easy SD, which has no ballast sub-system, therefore no need for the Y-lead.

And I've talked you out of interconnecting the bow and stern planes, so NO NEED OF THE Y-LEAD. You're golden.

M

[Von Hilde]

Back in the saddle on this thing. A little confused as to the wiring of the BEC circuit board in conjunction of the Mtronics speed control. I stepped back away from the table for a couple days. When I sat down again, I realised, I had too many pig tails, with plugs going forward. (6) I still dont have a transmitter and receiver, which is starting to annoy me. When I initally started, I had planned on 8 ch. so 4 servos, +speed control, and what ever other gadgets to add on later, all was good. Now I ordered the 4 ch Wfly with an extra receiver, to put in another boat. I took the stbd aft servo out of this driver and mounted the angle driver and lipo guard in that area and ran the antenna coax thru the empty pushrod seal. Installed the 10 amp fuse. Tied up the unused balast leads and will stow them some out of the way space under the motor deck most likely. Cut the toggle switch off the speed controller and soldered the ends, heat shrinked and stowed. I had some trouble with the gluing of the velcro mounting the BSC, and went with zip ties instead.TheBSC is the 4th plug with brown red yellow, so I assume that's the full compliment of the receiver. Where I am confused is the red white black pitch input is dangling from the ADF is suppose to go to the pins on the Rx acording to Kevin's instructions. The only place left that I can see is the 3 empty R B W pins on the FS side of the ADF just below. Did you say the BEC should be mounted up forward by the battery, or was I dreaming it. Seems to me I go to sleep thinking about this mess, lately. Btw, got the drawings, yesterday, thanks a bunch.

[Von Hilde]

So I got rid of the blower/balast circuit from the drawing and came up with this. Am I going in the right direction Dave?Speed control and battery eliminator are uncharted territory as to how they wire together, is where Im at. The BEC goes in the power loop off the battery and is mounted up forward near the bat, correct? Wondering about the exposed pins for the balast on the ADF2, there not touching anything. I gnore the second failsafe box in the thumb. Brain Fahardt

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You got a good drawing there. As you have the minimal load with this system (many devices not used, so less current draw), so you can rely on the ESC's installed BEC to supply current to the receiver bus. No worry.

I only advocate the separate and higher rated BEC if there are more than four mini-sized servos, pumps and other devices.

Good drawing. That will work just fine. You don't need a high-capacity BEC in there.

M

[Von Hilde]

Roger that Dave, Ill utilise that on the monster that is lurking under the table. I saw that the Mtronics RV 15 had one built in, but wasnt sure why the Hi capacity remote was in the kit. But I get it now. Onward to the battery mounting. and remote mission switch. Whats the SOP on the battery position and securing? Low and the CG related to counter weigh the motor section, I would guess.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Roger that Dave, Ill utilise that on the monster that is lurking under the table. I saw that the Mtronics RV 15 had one built in, but wasnt sure why the Hi capacity remote was in the kit. But I get it now. Onward to the battery mounting. and remote mission switch. Whats the SOP on the battery position and securing? Low and the CG related to counter weigh the motor section, I would guess.

Battery low in the foward space.

Here's how you wire up things up there to the mission switch. In your case (using Kevin's magnetically turned on/off latching relay) substitute his unit for the toggle-switch shown. Wipe your external magnet against the wet-side face of the forward bulkhead to turn the system on and off.

M

[Von Hilde]

Mission accomplished. Battery will sit sideways so weight is at centerline, have to fab up a little rack. Awaiting on the Tx/Rx from Kaz for the set up,power up.

[Von Hilde]

The red wire comming out of the wet side of the motor bulkhead? Hadnt given it much concern untill now.

[Von Hilde]

This red wire that goes into the bulkhead to the insulated bolt with the nut that holds the motor deck

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

This red wire that goes into the bulkhead to the insulated bolt with the nut that holds the motor deck[ATTACH=CONFIG]30374[/ATTACH]

That's the wet-end of the 27-75mHz receiver antenna (if used). If you're using 2.4gHz gear, check this out: http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...ghlight=2.4gHz

M

[Von Hilde]

will be eventually using low freek, down the road. Just will get stowed out of the way for now. Still waiting on my order for the Wfly4ch 2.4ghz. If no word by monday, Ill give Mike a call, if not in stock, just cnx the pending orders. I can just drive the 28 miles to the hobby shop and bring one home, and have lunch somewhere different for a change. Dont want to snip and solder the coax antenna till I get the receiver thats going in there. Made a battery rack this morning. Working on the deck attachments and then, the piddley detail work begins. solder some stronger railings, work out the detachable rigging jumperwire this weekend.