German Type 212A 3D Print Build

[rwtdiver]

I was just amazed at the information dump in your post. David you hit everything from search for lost sub to electronic schematics. Amazing work. I will be downloading these images.

Tom,

I have got to agree 100% with what you have stated. And I do appreciate all the input I am receiving. David is such a master at what he dose. I so respect his methods of achieving.his end results. His engineering drawings, methods of fabrication, set up, final detail finish work, and then the final masterpiece. What more can I say! Except to thank him for all the advice and help he has given me along the way!!

I do not want to slight many others who have been very helpful to me as well, and that includes you Tom!!

Rob,
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

I am hooked and ready to go!!



David M's influence strikes again! " It's hard to know which road to take without a map" I can now see that a SCALE drawing of the interior stern section will allow me to design a yoke
(to scale) that will make fabricating and installing it much easier.

I realize a lot of you will laugh somewhat at me putting up my drafting table, and that is fine, but I now understand how prior design and planning can make the overall fabrication go much better in our submarine building... And to that end, we build on!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Well after attempt and attempt, I am going back to my original design.



My poor eyesight just won't let me work like I used to. And without elaborating I am going to work on the original method.





This is the same design and method that Bob Martin (Nautilus Drydocks) uses on his new 212 A kits.

Nautilus Drydocks 1:72 German Type 212 Instructions CH2 (youtube.com)

The video above shows the installation process that I will be using.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Work with what you've got, Rob. Keep slugging tough guy! Ya got back-stops here if you need 'em. Just call out.

David

[rwtdiver]

Work with what you've got, Rob. Keep slugging tough guy! Ya got back-stops here if you need 'em. Just call out.

David

Thanks David!

I will get this 212 built and in the water, one way or another for sure!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Early this AM I was able to get the rudder/dive plane linkages all hooked up, and to my surprise they work properly!





I also installed the brass sleeve for propeller shaft. The stern section is now ready to be attached to the bottom hull section.

All in all, I think the linkage system that Bob has designed for his German 212 A kits is very much workable. Just follow the video and use the templates.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Last night I masked off the hull exteriors in preparation for the interior sealing work.



I applied one light coat of two part finishing resin. Let it dry 12 hours, and then one light coat of primer, and one coat of spray on grey rust-oleum paint.





Prior to applying the interior seal coats, I masked off the areas where the weights (in the bottom) and the foam (in the top) will be attached to the hull sections. Leaving these areas clear of the sealer will allow for better adhesion for the weights and the foam.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Today has been one of those days that went well!



I have the stern section now attached and secured to the bottom hull section.



I also installed the "X" tail linkages, and they operate properly! :-))



Not a very clear photo showing the prop shaft installed along with the linkage and everything works in the clear. Note: Again I will give Bob Martin (Nautilus Drydocks) credit for the "X" tail linkage design. It really does work well, you just need to take your time follow his schematics and pay attention to his build video, (and maybe a little cussing) and it will work...

Next inline will be the installation of the flotation foam and the ballast weights.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[biggsgolf]

Good work Rob!

[rwtdiver]

Today I had a little bit of fitting work to do. The top hull section would not fit the bottom hull section.



To the sanding board I went. I do not have any power sander for this job, so all hand work!





After about an hour of sanding, I finally relieved the approximately 1/8" to get the top section to fit.



Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Today I fabricated and installed the stern and bow hold down brackets for the hull top section.





Next I will install brass inserts for the stainless steel hold down screws.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

I know some of my photos might be somewhat boring, but it is all part of the build!



I installed the brass inserts for the stainless steel hold down screws for the stern and bow of the upper hull.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[biggsgolf]

I know some of my photos might be somewhat boring, but it is all part of the build!



I installed the brass inserts for the stainless steel hold down screws for the stern and bow of the upper hull.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

Rob, can you direct me to where you purchased the inserts and screws?
Bruce

[wlambing]

Rob,

Please switch to flat head, countersunk screws, SO much prettier, and in keeping with the rest of the boat's appearance! ;)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Rob,

Please switch to flat head, countersunk screws, SO much prettier, and in keeping with the rest of the boat's appearance! ;)

ditto................