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As the left and right sides of the hull were engineered, their assembly results in a little box over the sonar dome. Did you vent that box with big-ass holes, Mark?
As good as my word. To the Pond, to the Pond. Eventually everything worked great. I am very pleased with the way she ran. In the end she kept perfect periscope depth(if she had a periscope). Ill put that on after the paint. After a good hard run the motor,Speed 400, was just barely warm. However, when I first got there and into the water, she was playing "Hard to Get". Porpoising all over the place. Everything worked, but it was not smooth. I checked the balance again and the trim. So it boiled down to that it had to be the APC. On this one I used an older "Thor" Apc with two adjustable pots. So I kept increasing the sensitivity until it became smooth as silk. You can operate it hands off. So I cant think of another thing to do but paint it.Here she is "ON STEP".
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
One thing I noticed. The rudder has developed quite a bit of slop in it. I recommend that before the install of the white metal bellcrank on the 1/16" rudder shaft, that you put a close fitting washer down and tack it down. Otherwise the plastic of the model will wallow out and the rudder shaft will flop around, and get worse. I tried to get the belcrank off, but the set screw is stuck. What to do, what to do? I know. Ill make a 2 piece washer out of brass flat bar. Drill a 1/16" hole in each near the edge, and grind down the edge until only half a whole is left. I used a small rat tail file to open them up just a smidge. I put them in place, holding them one at a time against the shaft, and put a drop of CA out on the end, away from the shaft. That way there is less chance of the CA from seeping over to the shaft and locking it up. That tightened things up quite a bit. The rest of the slop is between the brass control rod and the soft white metal bellcrank. Ill keep an eye on it and perhaps make one later on out of harder materials.
Add a drop of CA into the space around pushrod Z-bend and bell-crank (leave them assembled when you do this). Let cure. Then work the rudder -- this, of course, will break the bond between pushrod and bell-crank. The glue remaining on the pushrod becomes a radial shim. Nice and tight and will last forever.
Onward ever onward. The upper hull is to be painted a light grey. But first, body filler and sanding the surface to accept the paint. Then the addition of the Grab irons, handrails and the two angle clips. Then the paint.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
Mr. Redboat.....thanks for asking. LOOK....there is someone who cares. No, nothing since the last post. Im steadily distracted by other models crying out to me. Lately its been the Seaview repowering situation, and the airboats power suplimentation. As far as the type 23 goes I need to finish the seam filing and sanding and then paint it. The stern plane servo sounds like the gears are stripped so I ordered a better servo for its replacement. That needs to go in, only I got to cut the others apart to get to it.
IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!
Mr. Redboat.....thanks for asking. LOOK....there is someone who cares. No, nothing since the last post. Im steadily distracted by other models crying out to me. Lately its been the Seaview repowering situation, and the airboats power suplimentation. As far as the type 23 goes I need to finish the seam filing and sanding and then paint it. The stern plane servo sounds like the gears are stripped so I ordered a better servo for its replacement. That needs to go in, only I got to cut the others apart to get to it.
You put that putty on so heavy, may I recommend your first cuts be with a grader-blade!
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