1/35 scale type 23

[greenman407]

Jon says Hes got plenty of the Bronco fittings kits in stock, ready for immediate delivery. Gettem while there still warm.

[greenman407]

Started trimming out from inside the hull, all that extra reinforcement, I guess. I havent got the fittings kit yet so I dont know what kind of hull reinforcement he is sending. So for now Ill just trim it down leaving a little sticking up for strength. Also am putting the endcap together. Its almost done. The 2&1/2" cone needs a little bit of trimming for a little more leeway for pushrod clearance , so I cut in three grooves on its inside.

[redboat219]

That top photo made me wonder. Could one utilize that bottom chamber as a ballast tank. There's already a provision for the location of the vent valve- the periscope well. All that's needed is to punch some flood holes in the bottom.

[redboat219]

That top photo made me wonder. Could one utilize that bottom chamber as a ballast tank. There's already a provision for the location of the vent valve- the periscope well. All that's needed is to punch some flood holes in the bottom.

[greenman407]

I suppose you could.

[greenman407]

Today I bought some wood from Lowes to construct the stand for this thing. I didnt realize it until I got out the Micrometer that this things hull is larger in diameter up high and less in diameter down low. Its 3&9/16" high and 3&1/16" low. Im going to cut a groove in the bottom of the stand to capture and hold the keel and line the insides that touch the model with thin strip rubber. I take a bicycle tube and using a Xacto knife , cut strips that I CA to the wood edges at the model. I got the endcaps for the battery WTC ordered. When they arrive Ill order another piece of Lexan tube to complete the task. Once I see how much space that the battery WTC takes up I can then plan for the ultimate size of the Sub-driver to push this thing along. Im thinking 6&1/2"-7" for the ballast tank.
Keep in mind that this thing was eventually going to run on the Walter Turbine fed by Hydrogen Peroxide 100 proff. That means FAST! I hoping that my Speed400 motor 3:1 endcap conversion/modification/abomination will result in a Zippy submarine when the desire presents itself. Its been a while since I sneaked up on a pair of unsuspecting Ducks or surprised a Cormorant that was searching for a fish meal.

[greenman407]

The fittings kit arrived and as is my custom, I got out the camera for a upclose review.

[greenman407]

Ofcourse, this is not all the parts, just some of the highlights. I see no change from the other fittings kits I have purchased from Caswell. Still the same high quality, time saving parts, that will help move a project along. Ill need to make four more of the subdriver mounts as my subdriver will be in two pieces. I am awaiting endcaps so that I can make my own battery WTC.

[greenman407]

Ok, I got a true 1" thick piece of pine, 11&1/2" wide and straight and flat as a milling machine table. Gotit all ready to cut after I get the hull ready. Itll need to be glued together first. But before that I took the time to install the Subdriver holders plus the four extra I made out of 1/4" Poplar coated heavily with Polyurethane. Also I installed the prop shaft bearing after clearing out the location. Then I will install the three control surfaces front and rear, in there places before finally buttoning things up, before cutting out the opening. Ill also mount the pushrods to those control surfaces as well so that in the cramped confines of a tight hull I dont have to fiddle with it.
Dont forget to figure out how to get the forward planes mech. plumbed to the rear before you close things up.

[greenman407]

Pictures wont post tonight using either Google Chrome or Microsoft. Ill try again tomorrow.

[greenman407]

Sorry about all the extra pictures. Something is WACKY.

[greenman407]

Ill have to do them one at a time using the basic uploader

[greenman407]

Prop shaft bearing. First clean out the mounting area with your Dremel and test the fit. Youll find that it will only go in one way and fit.

[greenman407]

Because my Subdriver is going to be two piece, I needed 4 extra Subdriver holders. So I made them out of some 1/4" Poplar that I had lying around. After coating with Polyurethane, they will be glued in as well. Here you can see the projected rough fit of the unit. From this it would appear that the rudder will be driven from the top right(camera view) push rod seal. The Rear planes from the next in line to the left and the front drive planes will be operated via a belcrank mech. from the left one. I mapped out a line 1/2" over from center on the port side Subdriver holders where a hole will be drilled for running the pushrod forward for the planes. Because of the length of the run I will probably reinforce it with a piece of brass tube for the trip forward. Just thinking outloud.

[greenman407]

Here we go with a wee bit or two. I ordered a length of the 2&1/2" tube and finally got the nerve to cut it into the two pieces that I needed. One for the battery WTC and one for the Ballast and drive WTC. I got the two endcaps on but I need , of course, to install the ballast bulkhead with vent valve and mechanism.Also ,I need to make the servo and equipment trays as well. I bought some alluminum sheet metal from the hobby store and I have a few ideas as to how Im going to do it.