1/35 scale type 23

[greenman407]

I want to get everything sorted out first as to cyl. locations and control surface linkages installed, before gluing the halves together. That way I dont have to fiddle with trying to do that with my hand sticking thru the access hatch that I will cut in later. Its easier to do it now. Here you will notice that the ballast endcap with gas cyl. protruding is going to eat up too much space. So, Im going to turn that copper vessel around and let the long end stick into the cylinder. All I have to do is seal up the discharge line on the one end and move it to the other end. Since the ballast tank is going to be 7" long , that copper vessel might not be enough. If thats the case, we will make a bigger one. We will try this one first. If the ballast tank is too big we can either cut the cylinder down and make it shorter or we can shrink the effective size of the ballast tank by putting a round piece of foam inside the ballast tank, reducing its volume.

[greenman407]

A little bit of for-thought might have saved me from this. If I had thought about it ,I could have drilled these holes in before I had glued in these battery WTC supports. Oh well, a extra short drill bit and a right angle drill attachment saved the day. These holes are for the linkage that will operate the bow planes. I want it all installed before I glue the halves together and work on cutting out the top. In the next picture I am sizing up the location and all the particulars for the belcrank mech. for the afformentioned bow planes.

[trout]

Mark, really creative work. I like the way you are running the pushrod through the wtc holders. Should be a clean looking install!

[greenman407]

Thanks Tom. Since the Seaview is stalled for the moment, I pulled this off the shelf. For the front planes, here is the linkage in place.

[crazygary]

Nice linkage, greenman407!!

Amazing what can be done when you have a substantial amount of available
"real estate"! Super clean installation!!

She's right, Mate!!

[greenman407]

Thanks, tomorrow we will see what can be done about the stern control surfaces before we button it up for the next stage.

[greenman407]

Here we go with todays pitiful little bit of work.As you can see, Im not satisfied with one bellcrank, Ive got to have two of them. Reason being the relatively great vertical distance between the rudder linkage and the rear planes linkage. Since we are using 1/16" brass wire(spindly) there will be too much flex for my liking. This way the control inputs can be straight on for the most part. Excepting of course the bow planes which are more towards the middle of the boat as respects the vertical, therefore requiring a 45 degree bend to get it there.
Also since we are a little bit cramped for room Ive had to cut the Klikons overall length down to get them in there and still have room for operational control. So, as you can see ,the first bellcrank is for the bow planes and the second one is for the stern planes. With care, enough room can be found, although it is a bit tight. Oh and by the way, the drive shaft is the old Albacore shaft that I made up for the original Subtek kit. After I modified the Albacore to be "DUOPROP" It would no longer fit. So....waste not what not....I saved it for a future day. Today was the day, perfect length.

[greenman407]

One more picture. This time it contains the rudder linkage. You cant tell from the picture but Im using Klikons on all three control surfaces. As far as those magnets go, Im using double magnets. Thats it. Tomorrow I will glue the two halves together with model airplane glue., with rubber bands to hold things together, leaving the control surfaces rods in place.

[crazygary]

Wow!! Pretty sweet setup greenman407!!
You make this "linkage thing" look like a "no brainer"!!
Fantastic "job" there!

And, ya really have to love them, thar magnets!!
Way to go, Ma Nature!!!!

CG

[greenman407]

Got er glued today. Ill need now to figure out the best location on the hull for the cuts to be made.

[greenman407]

Today was the day. I set up the previously prepared cutting platform and cutting tool and went at it. First of all this board was not wide enough to make the cuts from both side, so I cut one side and then flip the model around and make the cuts on the otherside. I used a tri-square to ascertain plum and then set it with this piece of alluminum angle with a 3/16" hole drilled in one end to go around the prop shaft and attached to the end of the board.
I started out slow and made three good shallow passes using the diamond blade at a slower RPM. When I was done with the horizontal cuts I changed tools and gear and made careful, thoughtful .......did I say careful?.......cuts with the razor saw. It turned out well.

[greenman407]

[greenman407]

In this view you can see clearly all the linkage thingys.

[greenman407]

However, "Time and Unforeseen Occurrence Befall Us All". It was at some point that I realized that the rudder linkage was locked up. From the posted picture, you can just make out that the white metal rudder arm is too big for the space available within that narrow section on the stern of the type 23..............................So there is a inspection hatch scribed in at that location. I will ....gingerly....cut it out to access that mechanism and make whatever changes that need to be made. I say gingerly because I want to re-use that hatch to be able to get in there again in the future If need be.

[MFR1964]

I like that practical thinking Mark,

I wonder if the same method was used on the real XXIII, i guess to reach into the darkest places of the XXIII, it would be quite possible, especially at wartime, when things had to be done with the tools you have, let us now enjoy the rest of your journey, i'm watching you

Manfred.