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1/35 scale type 23

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  • 1/35 scale type 23

    Yep, Ya Skurvy Swabs, Me TOO.......Me TOO! I keep looking at this Bronco Type 23 still in the box, sitting on the shelf. This is such a Beautifully detailed model that it would be a crying shame to not dunk it in the water. So my first step will be to glue the sides, front to rear together as the hull comes in four pieces.
    Ill be making a cut in the hull to accommodate the INFAMOUS 2&1/2" SAS Subdriver. I already have the receiver and Pitch control. All Ill need is the servos, fittings kit and Subdriver. Thats only...what....$700?
    Yep, itll be a work in progress as I do battle with the Scamper, UFO Skydiver and the UPholder. I like my plate full, that way I can pick and choose. If you only have one project....then your stuck.Click image for larger version

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    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

  • #2
    Yeeeessss!
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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    • #3
      I gotta get some pictures up here. I started with joining the front and rear sections together using model airplane glue on a flat workbench plank. I purchased an old WTC from Daves garage sale. Its a 2&1/2" job with a single motor output. However, its ballast tank section is way too small. So I will buy a length of clear tube and using componants from this used unit, I will custom make my own. I will, however, need to purchase the fittings kit. Small, humble beginings.
      IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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      • #4
        Dave, the Subdriver that I bought from the garage sail appears to have been designed for the Trumpeter Seawolf. It also appears to be direct drive. As I said before Im going to use parts of it to make a larger unit for the Bronco Type 23. Isnt that small direct drive motor too small for the bronco Type 23?
        IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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        • #5
          Yup, you'll fry the motor. The Bronco type-23 uses a 'standard' 2.5", single-motor (3:1 gearing) SD. The little cylinder you have has neither the ass to get that boat to the designed waterline or to swing that big propeller.

          You cheap so-and-so, you!

          M
          Resident Luddite

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          • #6
            Thats what I thought. Building the cylinder larger is no problem but that geared endcap is something else. Im wondering about pulling the servos out of the endcap and mounting them in the cyl. proper, freeing up more room inside the endcap to mount a larger motor such as a 400 or a 540 to swing that prop. Also, I still have a 3" geared endcap. Perhaps some surgery will free-up the gearbox area to be grafted into the 2.5"endcap. Or maybe you or Mike will have pity on this old salt and send me(for a nominal fee)a geared endcap? Or.............the possibilitys are endless.
            IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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            • #7
              You can get some nice small in-line gearboxes for not much money on ebay. I'm sure the motor you have has more than enough gumption to power that little XXIII along with a bit of slowing down.
              DIVE IN! Go on, go on, go on, go on, GO ON! http://www.diveintomodelsubmarines.co.uk

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              • #8
                Thanks Andy. I hadnt thought of Ebay.
                IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                • #9
                  Just to get up to date on this I glued the fronts to the rears but not the sides together yet. Went to great efforts to make the sides straight during the glueing process. In order to achieve this I had to leave a small gap at the top to be filled later.Click image for larger version

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                  IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                  • #10
                    Now, back to the Subdriver problem. My corrupted mind has schemed a solution. Since I have an extra 3" end cap thats gear reduction ,Ive conspired to surgically remove the area that the motor/gearbox mounts to , off of the 3" job and graft it on to the 2&1/2" endcap, near the Oring flange. The seals will be a little close to the edge but this Dr. Frankensteins monster is in the works. Thank God for Dremels, CA and Epoxy. In the first picture you can see where I put a pencil mark on both of the donor parts.
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                    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                    • #11
                      I dont believe that there will be a clearance problem, using parts of the three inch endcap because the internal dimension of the hull, leaves a fair amount of room. Once the grafting is complete, Ill order a stick of lexan tube and make a larger dry space as well as ballast tank. Im thinking 6" for the ballast tank. As far as battery power, Ill have to fabricate a battery WTC or buy one. Ill be using a 6 cell NIMH, that way I dont have to worry about LIPO guards. Since the servos are dinky, I wont have to worry about an additional BEC. I have a spare Hitek speed control and plenty of recievers, A LA Sombra. Ive also got an old Thor APC. Yep, itll be a Hodgepodge.
                      Oh yeah, Ill need a fittings kit. JON!!!
                      Last edited by greenman407; 01-19-2014, 06:01 PM.
                      IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                      • #12
                        Be-a-u-tiful! Great way to over come. Hats off to you Mark!
                        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks................lets just hope that I can deliver.
                          IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Carefully scoring on the pencil mark with a fine bladed hacksaw, just enough to leave a reference mark, out comes the Dremel with Abrasive wheel. I dont know what this stuff is(Renshape?) but its relatively hard even though it feels slipery to the touch. It also throws a lot of fine dust.(SNEEZE...SNEEZE and Sneeze) Because of the size difference, it is necessary to offset their seems so that the motor gearbox will have a place to reside and that the seals will fit as well. I can always trim either one for clearance as needed. Also, the three incher uses 1/8" seals. Ill have to bush them to accept the 1/16" pushrod seals. Wallah!
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                            Last edited by greenman407; 01-21-2014, 09:30 PM.
                            IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                            • #15
                              Since the dismembered 3" endcap came with 1/8" pushrod seals, Im gonna replace them with the 1/16" variety. So, out comes the plastic tubing. I cut 3 pieces of it to act as a bushing, as I have done in the past. Next step......put this mess together. Also, today I received a piece of Lexan tube 24" long that will serve to lengthen this unit. Im also going to employ a Battery WTC up front. Tomorrow Im going to order the fittings kit, a couple more decent size servos and a couple of Dumas connectors.Click image for larger version

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                              IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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