1/35 scale type 23

[greenman407]

OKeedokee, todays progress. My hull seperation went pretty good..........but not perfect. A few areas that need to be doctored a bit. Applying Evercoat and sanding it down to hide my mistakes. The plastic hull flexes slightly while cutting. I drilled holes for air removal and attached the sail to the top section using the excellent supplied hardware. Dont forget to recess the front sail mount inside the sail or youll be trimming it later.

[greenman407]

[greenman407]

If you will recall, Tom talked about his periscope. At that point I hadnt even looked at mine. The book that Manfred suggested I got in the mail. The periscope drawing that Tom put up is in there, along with a few pictures. Looking at the picture, I would say that the drawing is not accurate....IMO. So I set out to make mine look as much like the picture as I can. So, I took a piece of 1/8" brass tube and put the end of it in a vice and squished it....just a little. I wanted it to be oblong. When I was satisfied I used the Dremel and cutoff wheel to make a thin slice. I also took a piece of 5/32" brass tube and cut a piece 5/16" long. Using thin CA with a tiny capilary tube for a nozzle I glued it together and using some extra CA I filled up the oblong tube sliver to give the impression of a lens. Then some Evercoat Easy Sand dabbed on it. After sanding it looks pretty close.

[greenman407]

OH DUH, I bet that you would like to see what it looks like after sanding...................

[crazygary]

Looking pretty "official"!!
Nice!
CG

[greenman407]

Well , Ill need to fine tune its shape a little bit.

[greenman407]

So, now that I fixed the booboos on the hull separation deal, we are free to start putting on the tabs. Youll notice from the picture that the green tabs are slightly radius-ed in shape. Thats to match the contour of the hull. They go along the edges , some on the top some on the bottom, alternating. First up, the end pieces. Its very important that the top doesnt come off while we are underway, right chaps? So, I put two white flat tabs upfront attached to the upper piece that comes off to give it a firm footing. They will go under the forward deck, to keep it in place. The rear section you bend it in half and attach it under the rear section like so. The top will sit on it.

[greenman407]

Davids earlier suggestion to soften the plastic hull at the joint first with plastic weld brushed on both surfaces first, works very well. After applying the weld then a generous amount of model airplane glue and then a close pin. Give it at least 12 hrs. to dry. The green tabs however are renshape. It would probably be better to apply them with CA. Ive been putting them on with a clothes pin first to line them up, and then hit them from both sides with thin CA and let it seep in.

[trout]

If you will recall, Tom talked about his periscope. At that point I hadnt even looked at mine. The book that Manfred suggested I got in the mail. The periscope drawing that Tom put up is in there, along with a few pictures. Looking at the picture, I would say that the drawing is not accurate....IMO.

There are a couple of periscope styles or versions, me thinks. If you look at the beginning of my build, there are photos of the skinny periscopes and the photo you show is a thicker scope, proof of a scope like the one you are building......whatever way it is, I like what you are doing. I so enjoy our hobby were you can be creative, artistic, and problem solver all at the same time. Excellent work Mark!

[MFR1964]

In general there were two kind of scopes, the attack peroscope, and the navigation peroscope, on the type XXIII they used the attack type peroscope, i've added some pics to enlighten you guys, enjoy














Manfred.

[greenman407]

Thanks Tom. Manfred, what are the twisted wires around the lower portion of the scope for? Some pictures show them, others do not.

[greenman407]

After I saw this picture, I took a needle file to mine and flattened out the top and went around the lens to make it stand out. I could probably touch it up a little more.

[MFR1964]

Mark

Those twisted wires are placed to give a smaller wake, and less vibrations to give a more stable view for the crew manning the scope.

Manfred

[greenman407]

Still wasnt satisfied. Took the file and went around it above and below the lens to round the cylinder at the junction. Then hit it with 320 paper to take out the scratches. Fortunately when I paint it the paint will fill and blend where I cant and make it look a lot better. SEE WHAT YOU STARTED TOM! Sheesh!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Now THAT is one hell of a neat trick, Mark. You Soth'n Boys aren't as dumb as you look.

Excellent methodology followed by first-class execution. Well done, sir.

M