1/35 scale type 23

[greenman407]

Here we go with the servo layout. I didnt care for the eeency weeency ones that you normally find in the 2&1/2' cyl. so I went with the teeeny weeeeny ones, a step up. By leaving a space on the right of the servos, it will act as a conduit to pass wires thru. As was suggested to me in the past by Kevin Mcleod, and has worked out well, I drilled holes in the planes thru to the shaft and after carefully aligning them, I thin CAed them in place. I can be such an IDIOT at times. If you look thru to the bottom to the stern planes shaft you will see that Ive got the white metal shaft arm backwards so that I cannot engage the set screw from inside the hull. DONT WORRY FOLKS! You need fear no evil here as "I HAVE WAYS", as you will soon see.

[greenman407]

This sub will be equiped with the Sombra/Lepton 6 receiver. This unit was all that was left when the SL-8 was all gone forever. SO ,I will be the first to use it! HA AHHHhahha AAhhaha!(evil maniacal laugh). It didnt come with crystals and The WyFly crystals wont fit , so I have to go to the outside world to find some UM-1 receiver crystals and some 1/16" Clippard gas hose, so that I can finish my ballast tank and continue on the control center. Sorry....not my fault

[crazygary]

G'Mornin', Gerrnman407!!

"GWS Props" has the UM-1 crystals, although they have recently let me know that they're
out-of-stock on the channel 69. Not sure about other channels!

However, I managed to find some at "RobotMarketPlace"! In stock, and cheaper than GWS.
Ordered them 2 days ago, and they've already shipped them!!

CG

[greenman407]

Cool! That means that you have the Lepton as well? Ive got mine on the way already. Caswell has a link to another source as well:

http://www.caliberhobby.com/crystalrx.html

[crazygary]

I do, indeed have the Lepton6!!

Once the crystal manages to make its way to my grubby little paws, maybe I can
finally get my little Skipjack wet!!

Ooo!! What a concept!! Get a model submarine wet???

How cool would that be!! Hah!!

My pool anxiously awaits the coming of the silent killer!!(LOL)

CG

[trout]

Mark,
I am going to steal yours and Kevin's idea for putting holes in. I am not sure if it is done just for using CA, but on my planes, David's tolerance is so good that when I put the plane on the shaft, it acts like a piston and pushes it out at the end. So a small hole would allow the air out. Thanks for posting this!

[greenman407]

Yep, my bow planes were a nice tight fit, I probably didnt need to glue them at all. But the stern planes were a little loose, so I did both. I guess what Dave did on the rudder you could do on the planes(allen set screw) If there is enough meat. Youll probably want to doctor over the set screw on the rudder as it sticks out a little bit.

[trout]

Like yours, I think it was my bow planes that are tight. Aft ones not so much. The purpose is just to glue the planes on? You do not use the set screw? Please elaborate for us slow cookers (me).

[greenman407]

Right now Im waiting on the BEC to get here from Caswell. I ordered four of them , one for this boat and the others to retrofit into other boats. Its a great price and Ive already got one in the Scamper, so I know it works. I dont want mine on the bottom of the pond because of a weak BEC. There are too many other ways for her to end up there(not to mention operator induced crashing). If its preventable by purchasing the most suitable equipment from the start ,Id rather do that.http://www.sub-driver.com/battery-el...r-circuit.html

[greenman407]

I do use the set screw on the rudder, because its already there. But you dont have to. If the set screw sits too high for your tastes, then take it out and drill more holes and glue it as well.

[greenman407]

As far as the propeller is concerned, as you know, I purchased the Caswell Plug n Plate system in Bronze, thinking that what more realistic way to doll up your prop than to metalplate it with...................BRONZE, the same thing that they make the real bloody things with EH! So here we go with the operation. I hit the prop with a wire wheel attachment on the Dremel. Not only does it buff it up it also smooths out the casting seams and any imperfections. I then scrubbed it down with "Soft Scrub" and rinsed her real good, taking care not to touch the prop with my fingers. I boiled water with the prop in the water to bring it up to temperature and the blue bronze solution I also brought up to a higher temperature before I put the negative cliplead into the shaft hole of the prop and used a clothes pin to suspend it in the liquid. Then the Anode with gauze loosely wrapped around it was inserted and clothes pined to the glass as well. Then just plug it in. The prop immediately starts to emit bubbles so that the fluid becomes cloudy. I left mine in for a hour and a half. At that point I believe all the bronze was used up. It did a good even job as long as you turn the prop every 15 mins. or so. For mine , I felt that another plating session would do the trick so Ive got a refill bottle of the Bronze on the way. After I get the prop the way I want it Im going to clear urethane it to protect it.

[trout]

That came out really looking good. It looks like a prop that has been used and weathered naturally.

[greenman407]

The instructions also tell of another method to apply the Bronze. They call it the brush technique. You use the anode with its gauze cover like a paint brush to apply it. I dont recommend it as it turned some of the areas black. It was burning it. The pool method seems to work much better. The urethane will slightly darken the prop which is OK by me. Ill do the 5 bladed Scamper prop the same way. I can reuse the kit and just reorder the refills to save money. You need two bottles per prop I believe.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Now to **** on Mark's parade:

As I understand it (check me on this, von) by that time Germany was so low on strategic metals (brass, for example) that almost all propellers of the period were cast from steel.

(running for cover)

M

[greenman407]

If thats the case, it would be....what......rust color?