Stingray Build

[RCnut]

I am the slow one here......what does the spinning door knob do? Does it help stabilize the sub?

Ok, The Ratemaster is "Supposed to" Dampen the torque effect of the Propulsor. But it was just made to spin in the show for effect. As I'm a bit of an anorak I like things to appear as they did on the effects model. That being said there were at least 4 Stingrays done in various scales and not all of them had spinning RMs on them.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'm most impressed with this project. And your desire to represent the model not only in form, but also in functions is most laudable. Love your work!

David

[RCnut]

Thanks David, Just a quick update, I have made a backplate up to replace the one seen in the vid. It now has built in Bearing housings for the rollers and I will mould and cast it for those that want to use it. The rollers are those Dremal rubber things that you put a sanding ring on (cant remember the name, lol). This is by no means the best way to do it being very low tech, An Internal ring gear and small pinion would be better but I'm having trouble finding one that fits. Pic tommorow.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sanding drum mandrels. Neat!

[RCnut]

Sanding drum mandrels. Neat!

Thats them Yeh!!

[Subculture]

HPC do internal gears. Not a cheap option, the gears are machine cut as opposed to moulded, so they cater to just about any size. You will need to machine the outer part to fit though.

http://www.hpcgears.com/products/internal_gears.htm

[RCnut]

Cheers Subculture, Just been on the phone to them and they do plastic gearing as well.

[Subculture]

If it's machine cut it'll probably be in acetal/delrin, which is difficult to bond if you are glueing the gear in.

[RCnut]

The Gear I will be ordering is actually bigger so it will have to be screwed to the Ratemaster face and trimmed down. Im in the trows of making an adaptable fitting for the rear so that different "modules" can be used. So at the moment its the Mandrel one but when I get the gear I can make up another to accomodate that. Pics at the end of the day.

[Scott T]

Once you get the gear bolted on why not fair it in and mold a new piece with the gear
integral (part of) of the rate-master. Would the clear material it is made of stand up to the continuous
grinding of the gear faces.

Scott T

[RCnut]

Once you get the gear bolted on why not fair it in and mold a new piece with the gear
integral (part of) of the rate-master. Would the clear material it is made of stand up to the continuous
grinding of the gear faces.

Scott T

Not as it is made from polyester, I have tried one in an epoxy clear resin but I wasnt to impressed by the results. Its better that its removeable as the rate master can be damaged and being clear is not an easy job to repair. so just bolt on another. I like to build in servicability to my models and not just glue/fix in place. If a bit breaks take it of and replace it. Simples.:biggrin:

[RCnut]

Ok here goes, First off I know this would be miles better milled from Aluminum but I dont have the where with all to do that so here are my styrene ones which I will take a mould of and do in resin (I will see if there are any decent Resins/Powders that are better than what im using now for the models.) The inner one is designed to be replacable for newer/updated parts as and when and when I get the internal gear rings.

[RCnut]

Cast the parts and as you can see the method works. With a bit of development (Tweaking) it will be even better(I hope)

[RCnut]

Got the decals done and I added the tail fin to see if I could get the Ratemaster assembly in and out without it fouling the back of the tail. And its fine. All servicable.:biggrin:

David, I'm waiting for some Lazer cut parts and then I will send out the pack for your perusal.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Oh, man! I'm like a kid Christmas eve.

David