Type 212

[MFR1964]

That's exactly what i had in my mind, the little piece with all the tubing will seal off the hole where the top of the gas bottle is, i'll take some close up pictures for you.

Greetings Manfred.

[oztruck]

Manfred, you will not have a problem with the trimming of your boat. Although you have added a few extras it will not trouble it. On mine the WTC is built stock but I am using 6 AA rechargeable batteries up front that take almost all of the space and are heavy. Mine is trimmed very slightly negative so if I want, it will sit on the bottom of the pond. Then ether drive to the surface or use the gas, not much gas just enough to make it move up towards the surface. Once the periscope/snorkel is above the water I can then use the snort pump to get it to the correct surfaced water line without any problems.
There is enough reserve in the ballast tank, even stock to change whatever you want to. But I have found that I need 2 cups of coffee before I take it for a swim, so I can keep up with it.LOL.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It is a zippy little boat once you advance the throttle stick. I think Manfred, with his V80 experience, will be more than capable to keep up with the boat once he lead-foots the throttle stick.

I too, Chris, find this little boat to be more than a hand-full when operating it up to speed.

And may I say, on behalf of Mike and myself, that we are so pleased to see the work Chris and Manfred have put into their respective Type-212 hull kits and SD's. Thanks, guys! Both threads are very informative and a joy to read.

David

[MFR1964]

Chris,
Like you i use the same AA batteries, there are heavy but offer me 2,5 Ah 7,2 Volts, lots of driving time, i like a overkill on capacity, never to worry for a second pack of batteries when driving.
Wether you balance your boat slightly negative or positive depends on if you have a gassystem onboard, just like the V80 there will be no gassystem, so the logical choice is slightly positive, this will give me a safety margin when there is trouble.
Removing the gas bottle will create more volume inside the tank, the only worry you have with this kind of models is the unstability when on surface, i'll always try to keep the heavy parts as low as possible, did the same with the V80, she stands like a rock, even turning corners won't change the behaviour of this boat, always straight.



This is the constructed nut, secured by a piece of copper wire, underneath the nut i've drilled out a hole, just to ensure that the screw will not give to much force when tightened.



I've secured the screws with a piece of tubing, giving me two things at the same time, the screw is secured and won't get lost, and the flexible tube will prefent tightening the screw to much.



Also played around with the rear upper light on the conningtower, decided to replace the aluminum one by a small copper tube, which allows me to insert the optic fibre.



By making the optic fibre pointed at the end you get this as the result.





I always do multiple things at one time, while working on the WTC i can glue the optic fibres inside the upperpart, while this part is drying i can work on other things, first stage is tacking it with CA, after that it will we secured with 2K glue.


David,
From what i understand from Chris(Ozzy)and you, with high speed it's a handfull, just like my V80, i snooped around in the software of the Wfly, there may be a solution, i have to investigate that futher.
Have to try it first on the V80, my faithfull test boat, i've read something about connecting the rudders to the level where your trottle stands, the more trottle you give the less deflection on your rudders, enough homework to do.

Glad you and Mike like to see what's happening with your products, ripping apart your carefully designed WTC and mutulating the hull, i love it when a plan comes together.

Greetings Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Guess what mister postman brought today, my ordered receivers, i tried to fit it inside the tube, arrrghh, i need room and lots of it, it didn't fit the way i wanted it.



I ordered three receivers a few weeks ago, one will be placed inside the 212, the other inside the XVIIb, and the third one for my secret project.



The connections are original horizontal, i managed to rebuild it to vertical, this way this sturdy little receiver will fit inside the tube the way i want it.


Greetings Manfred.

[Subculture]

Are those operating on legal frequencies in the Netherlands? The Sombra Labs site only advertises them in 72, 75 and 50mhz.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

... Shuuuusch, Andy!

Manfred: I love to watch a Master taking my finger-painting and turning it into a master-piece. Go get 'em!

Oh, the Lipton-6 (same outfit as the SL-6 receivers you got) is a bit smaller all-around.

Wow -- you are fearless, re-orienting the pins like you did. I don't have the balls to try that!

Yeah, we talked over taking throttle input and using that to turn down rudder-stern plane throws; as you advance the throttle, control surface response to stick motion diminishes. If you can achieve that mix at the transmitter, great. If not, it will have to occur down-stream of the receiver (another space-taking device to cram into your little SubDriver .... sorry)

David

[MFR1964]

Andy,

I don't have a clue, i know that they use 27 mhz, 30 mhz, 35 mhz and 40 mhz, 35 mhz is used only for airplanes and other flying stuff, using the 27,30,40 means you have to run the gauntlet, everybody is allowed on that frequency, so the chance of failure is higher, do i care about the 75 mhz?, to be honest no.
I only know that not many people will use it, the range of the receiver will be to small to give any problems to other users, unless your are in the direct area.

David,

Re orientating the pins, seperate the boys from the man, to be honest i've got a lot of experience under the belt with electronics converting to my needs for the hobby, or for my work, i did notice the SL6 but i wanted the SL8, now i've got me more channels at almost the same size.

I read something in the manual of the WFly about 3 channel use, have to search for that, from what i've read the helicopterguys use it, maybe i can convert it into our use, one thing for sure, you have to set your anglekeeper as unsensitive as possible.
With the V80 i ran into that problem, i use Norbert's one, set it up at the lowest setting and it's runs perfect, lesser dolphin wave action, the problem of oversteering happens by ourself, if it's possible to get the sticksetting right it will be much easier to run at high speed manually.


Greetings Manfred.

[Subculture]

Sounds like what is required is a microcontroller inserted between the leveller and the servo controlling pitch (or the mixer in the case of the x-tailed 212) with an input from the throttle channel to reduce throw as the throttle is advanced. I wonder if anyone has tried that? Perhaps this is a feature that could be built into the ADF?

[MFR1964]

Andy,
I have no idea, most of us never drive their boats to the limits, except some german guys i know, it's a complete different game what they do, i looked inside the Wfly what kind of settings i'm using for my V80, diveplanes only can deflect 20%, this way she won't be not to nervous at high speed, on slow speed the levelkeeper will do all the work for me, not restricted by the setting of my TX, it's a low tech solution, but it's working for me on the V80.

Greetings Manfred.

[trout]

By making the optic fibre pointed at the end you get this as the result.

Manfred,
I learned something new. I was always using the end of the fiber for light. You shaped the end to a point and that causes the shaft to "glow"? Very cool! Is there a particular angle?
Thank you. I will file this away for future use.

[MFR1964]

Tom,

For making a point of light you always use the end of the fiber, slightly sanding it into a point gives more reflection at the tip, depending how much area you need to light up you can enlarge the angle, just the way i did with the upper navlight.
I've got this trick from the past, used to have a lightsaber scale 1;1 from Star Wars, the inside of the tube was sanded, giving you the illusion of a stick of light, simple but neat solution.

Greetings Manfred.

[redboat219]

Manfred,
With regards to running the power leads outside the SD unit I'm curious why you bored the exit/entry holes on the side of the cylinder and not on the endcaps. Won't it be a potential point of failure for the cylinder?

Think it would have been better if you bored out the existing holes in the ballast bulkheads to accept a bigger conduit pipe for the wires.

[alad61]

Manfred,
I learned something new. I was always using the end of the fiber for light. You shaped the end to a point and that causes the shaft to "glow"? Very cool! Is there a particular angle?
Thank you. I will file this away for future use.

Ditto. All these years of using f/optic's and I never new that.Maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks!!

Thanks Manfred.

[MFR1964]

It doesn't matter if you drill inside the endcaps or the cilinder, you only have to glue it tight on both the inside and the outside, in my case drilling inside the cilinder becomes more handy because i still have to add some more plumbing for the SAS, there isn't much room left at the endcap.
A bigger pipe for the wires would cost me volume from the ballasttank, still have to glue it tight with the chance on failure, the way David designed it with little O rings gives me allready a watertight seal, doesn't want to break that down.


Alec,
There is always something new to learn, for me it's the same, the endresult of my boats wouldn't be be possible without the knowlegde and experience of other people, if nobody shares anything we wouldn't have the results we have now.

Greetings Manfred.