Type 212

[MFR1964]

I did a primary test, just to see if it will lock the tube, that worked fine, first i want to have a working SD, this way i can conduct real tests.

Yeah, it's tight, but i've build smaller, like this Marder.

Did some more work on the 212, drilled open the top of the conningtower and builded up the masts, i even went a little bit further with adding some stuff to the SD.



This is how she stands now.



Opened up the conningtower and added the masts, then it struck me, wouldn't it be nice to raise and lower the masts.



It think it would be a nice addition, prepared the masts and the holes for retracting.



There is a dutch guy at our dutch forum who made this possible by using a mechanic lift, got to suck his brains.



Want to use the surplus parts for the bigger SD to reinforce the upper part, why?, since i want to shoot some torps it's easier to not preform the Z cut, allowing a better access to the moving parts in the front.



After being inspired by the possibility of moving masts my mind went into overload, grabbed the Kilo SD and cannibilised it for some parts.



Want to place some servo's in the frontpart allowing me to shoot the tubes separatly, i wonder if i'll manage to jam everthing inside.
I don't know if a SL8 receiver would fit in, i centainly need it with the use of almost every channel.

1 Rudder
2 Divingplanes
3 ESC
4 Pump
5 Tankvalve
6 Peroscopes
7 Tube 1
8 Tube 2


Greetings Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You, sir, are out-of-control! Wow.

After the Marder, this things a cake-walk for you.

David

[redboat219]

If you're just going to make 2 tubes operational I think you can get through with using just one servo. David has a mechanically activated launcher using a servo to pull the breech block back to fire the torpedo.

[MFR1964]

I'm just getting under steam, compared to the Marder she looks like the USS Enterprice, due to the micro parts much more is possible, i've made some designs to get me working shutterdoors, don't like holes in the front of the bow, have to see if this can work.

The internal floater won't be a problem, i want to place it outside in the ballast compartment, so it will not take space inside the dry zone, the emergency blow system will be removed, i want to trim her just like the type V80.
This boat works with a pump, she is balanced in such way that the conningtower will stick 2 cm through the surface when the ballast tank is filled completely, so the last part of the journey will be made dynamic, stopping your boat means back to the surface.
As a back up against staying on the bottom she has a emergency bouy, which will be released after 30 sec in failsave mode.

I know about the mechanical release system, seen it on some pics, just like you mentioned it would be the best option, rugged and simple, still like the idea of choosing which tube i want to fire, if it's possible i wanna try.


Greetings Manfred.

[bassplayer1]

I'd love to see what you will come up with regarding the working torpedo doors!!!
Regards Yannis

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The resident expert of practical shutter-doors is Kevin McLeod -- he got all the tubes of his 1/96 OSCAR to work in a scale like manner.

David

[redboat219]

So you'll just run a tube from the top of the float valve cylinder into the dry space. Nice idea.

With regards to using a single servo to launch torpedoes you have a choice which tube to fire. Something like a push-pull system move the servo one way one arm retracts and fires the torpedo the other arm moves forward without engaging the firing block. Move the servo the other way and the other arm retracts firing round 2.

You could then use that other servo to open/close your torpedo doors.

[MFR1964]

David, are there some pictures from his boat, just curious how he builded up the shuttersystem.


Either way you need two servo's controlling the tubes and shutters, i want to do it the same way i did on the type VII, make a connection between the tube and shutter, so firing means that only the shutter will open from the selected tube.


Greetings Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Well. i'm back, survived the mountains,

[MFR1964]

Did some more work on the for me most difficult part, retracting the complete platform with all the stuff.



First i took the standard base and drew over the contours onto circuit board plate.



Drilled out the holes and reworked them with jeweller files to make the holes fit the masts.



Added the sliding rods, so it could slide up and down.



Copied the system used by one of our dutch forummember, he used levers to get the platform up and down.



Once you push against the lower part of the lever the platform will rise, it was a bit tricky to find out the right dimensions for the levers, so i made a make shift one, which could be easely adapted to my needs, once i found the right dimensions i made the final example.

If you wonder how this will look in action, watch the vid below, note the difference between the first and second part of the vid, it gives something extra to the motion.

Greetings Manfred.

[oztruck]

Looks good, now to get it to fit in the boat.

Cheers Chris

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

How in the hell did you get that antenna blade to transition along with its fairing. You sly dog, you! Amazing stuff.

David

[trout]

The raising of the antenna using a pulley? Please share! Very well done.

[MFR1964]

Thanks guys, it took some fiddling but it's working.



This is the drawing I've got from my dutch fellowbuilder.
The yellow circles are the wheels, the blue line the wire around the wheels, the black points are attached to the mast and to the static part of the sub.
To make things more compact, i've turned the system upside down so it could fit inside the fairing, from left to right the complete transition from retracted to extended, for bigger subs you can use the drawing as it is.

Greetings Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Gee, compared to Oz i look like a snail, on this moments i hate myself, i'll show what i've done these days.
Started to cut open the holes on the hull, and added something more, just to prove that scale won't limit yourself.



First i cutted open the manhole and added the hatch.



Produced a home made hinge so you can open it.



Added the beginning of the tunnel which goes into the sub.



Final touch of the hatch, those parts are so tiny i needed a pair of pliers otherwise they were glued to my fingers.



One of the rear hatches also replaced for a copper one.



Like the front hatch it can be opened.
If you ask yourself why this effort with the hatches, well, i don't preform the Z cut, so those hatches will conceil the mounting screws unlike the lockscrew on the rearpart.



This hole is purely cosmetic, it's the diesel exhaust, closed it up with a mesh grill, this weekend i'll attack the tower and will open some more spots on the hull.


Greetings Manfred.