Tweet
Interesting as I can use a 72mhz module!
-
-
I'll talk with Mike tomorrow and we'll work to get this resolved. Thanks for the heads up on this, Matt.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
-
Hey David, thanks for looking into this. Any word from Mike on what to do?
Thanks again,... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
-
While i'm waiting on an answer from super Dave. I have another question related to the BEC (the separate ugly one). There are to sets of wires attached to it. Obviously the first set that was bare i had wired up to the red dean's male connector (along with other components) on the aft side. But the other set of wires that terminates to a nice RX connector ... what do i do with that? Do i need to use that since i've solder the other end to the dean's connector? Or do need to attach it to my receiver ... say channel 5? I'm making sure i have all of this connected correctly before throwing the "big switch"
Thoughts?... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
-
Yeah, stick the big ugly, discrete BEC's three-wire lead into any unused receiver port.
The object of the game is this: All the devices draw current off of a single bus within the receiver (other than the ESC, Lipo-Guard, and MPC which also main-lines current straight from the batter). The receiver bus provides all the operating current the devices and servos need to operate, and it provides this current at a constant 5-volts. The BEC is the power-supply for the receiver bus, it's a regulated power supply rated for the maximum current draw of 5 Ampere's. The ESC's BEC can only squirt out 1.5 - 2 Ampere's before it strokes out. That's why we recommend the discrete 5A BEC for the larger SD's -- bigger and more servos mean more current drain off the receiver bus.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
-
So, got everything connected. Turned on the power and the transmitter. The lipoguard iluminated like expected to the instructions (so, i take that as a good sign that i didn't fry anything. But, nothing beyond that is working when i just mess around with my transmitter with toggles, switches, etc (thinking something should twitch or move) Not even my angle keeper is lit up. Silly question, but is my receiver on LOL? I noticed that the instructions have channel 9 for power (but what connector is my power...is it my ESC connection)? If so, do i need to move that down from channel 3 to 9?... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
-
Did you clip or remove the red line from your ESC to the receiver? And did you keep the on/off switch on the ESC? If this is a Mtroniks ESC, did you try the reset/configuration?If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
-
... it was the little on/off switch on the ESC lol. So, the drive has no reverse; i believe thats probably going to be a trim issue seeing that i have to have the stick all the way down to make it neutral. remote is in helicopter mode (or at least that's what is being displayed at the moment. So, the good news is; i think i have everything hooked up ...now its time to make sure things are working from the transimiters perspective trim wise (such as my drives). Going to keep messing with the tx/rx with the 72mhz until David has an answer about my 75mhz option ... at least i'm able to test things out while i wait:)
I'm just glad i didn't melt anything down.... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
-
You people!
You gotta get your ESC to talk nice to your transmitter. Here's how you do that:
First, make sure that the transmitters ch-3 (throttle) end-points are set to 100% - 100%.
Turn the ESC ON/OFF switch to the ON position. Put the transmitters throttle stick to neutral, then turn on the transmitter, then turn on the SD, then hit the ESC set button before the pretty green-red lights on the face of the thing stops flashing. Move the transmitter stick to full-ahead, then down to full-astern, then back to neutral. The ESC is now programmed to work with your transmitter. Are the motors now running in accordance with transmitter stick position?
MWho is John Galt?Comment
-
OK ... while I was oozing wisdom, you figured out how to work the on/off switch. Now, take my instructions and line up the ahead/astern points on the ESC with those of the transmitter.
Getting there, almost got it licked, buddy.
Get that transmitter into ACRO (acrobatic) mode -- normal r/c plane stick and switch assignments, which are shared be all vehicles that are not frig'n helicopters. Why WFly makes HELI the default mode is beyound me. Those rascally orientals!
To set ACRO/HELI model you hold the 'menu' button down and you turn on the transmitter then follow the on-screen instructions.
Go get 'em, Tiger! Hav'n fun yet?
MWho is John Galt?Comment
-
Definitely having fun, just always cautious that im going to beeak something lol. So working on the brass linkage from the servo horns through the water tight seals. Im learning that im having to bend these to get correct, but no matter how i bend them it seems to always have a bind
thoughts?... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
-
Run the brass pushrod through a greenie abrasive pad, then coat the rod with silicon grease. The microscopic axial scratches on the surface of the pushrod now capture the grease so it will better lubricate the contact area between pushrod and O-ring seal within the seal body.
Keep playing with it, eventually you'll find the sweet-spot where the bends you put into the inboard side of the pushrod permits a low-friction passage of the pushrod through the gland of the seal.
Enjoy.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
-
Thanks David! I think i have them pretty well set now. Next step is to get my channels set to the right controls on my radio. For example, i dont like how the snorkel pump is the left movement on my throttle joystick. Little affraid that im going to accidently engage that while submerged. Now that ive got the blasted remote in plane mode im hoping thins might work easier (still trying to figure out how to tie specific channels to different switches)
also, how do specify certain functions that are daised together on one channel like the fail safe blow (or do i never really want to engage that unless the failsafe triggers?)Last edited by matthewnimmo; 03-16-2014, 11:53 PM.... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
-
@david: did you ever get a chance to chat with Mike about my 75mhz issue?... a computer once beat me at chess, but it was no match for me with kickboxing!!Comment
Comment