Bronco 1:35 Type XXIII RC Build/ Conversion
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Nope.
Two steps removed from when the wash was sprayed on. After scrubbing the wash into every nook and corner.
I then achieve a very subtle streaking effect with a soft brush following the gravity line. That's what's being represented in this picture.
Oil paint dries very slowly, so no rush. The drying is accelerated with a heat gun (careful, things can go terribly wrong here) and a few days of sitting by its lonesome. At that point I get into the rusting agent application.Who is John Galt?👍 1Comment
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Get this stuff. 1 pt Modern Masters ME208 Iron Metal Effects Reactive Metallic Paint - Walmart.com
Plenty of how-to tutorials on YouTube.Who is John Galt?👍 1Comment
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The cotton and soft paper towel are used neat. They wipe away most of the wash from flat areas. Leaving wash around weld beads and into crevasses and negative draft areas. Washes and dry brushing are forms of false high lighting. These techniques used sparingly and to the correct surfaces makes the finished display 'pop' to the observer.Who is John Galt?👍 1Comment
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Any linseed oil-based paint brand will do -- just go to an 'artist' store and ask the lisping, blue-haired, cattle nose-ringed, goth freak at the counter where the oil paints are. (Try not to laugh in her/his/it's... whatever's face when you do this). Don't forget the turpentine thinner/solvent.
Who is John Galt?Comment
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LOL, yes, it will be a True Holiday experience! Yes, I have the turpentine thinner/solvent dialed in to my shopping list!
Any linseed oil-based paint brand will do -- just go to an 'artist' store and ask the lisping, blue-haired, cattle nose-ringed, goth freak at the counter where the oil paints are. (Try not to laugh in her/his/it's... whatever's face when you do this). Don't forget the turpentine thinner/solvent.
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what medium(s) did you use to attain the beige/brown scum effect? Do you also have a photo? ThanksSomething David taught me long ago when I built my OTW Type XXIII. The waterline scum line looks better when you use a fan blender brush with the scum color loaded onto it, and you draw downwards from the scum line and you do it in different lengths as you work your way across the hull.
One other thing he taught me for this specific boat…most XXIIIs were operating in cold water areas. The scum line was probably more beige/brown with little green.
Just adding something to consider as you finish your weathering.
Hope that was OK to add onto what David is teaching…Comment
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David, I am guessing you know what my next request is....... would you share the mediums and techniques you used to do the XXIII Scum line and below? I was going to wait to ask, but want to have a plan and shopping list!
Any linseed oil-based paint brand will do -- just go to an 'artist' store and ask the lisping, blue-haired, cattle nose-ringed, goth freak at the counter where the oil paints are. (Try not to laugh in her/his/it's... whatever's face when you do this). Don't forget the turpentine thinner/solvent.
Last edited by biggsgolf; 11-29-2023, 03:55 PM.Comment
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Do I have a photo?
Do.
I.
Have.
A.
Photo????
You're kidding!?... right?










The adhesive is water soluble (but becomes waterproof once dry) 'artist medium', used to prepare canvas for paint work. Another visit to woke-land (art supply store) will net you this stuff. The green 'Turf' is sold wherever they sell model train stuff.
Who is John Galt?👍 1Comment
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hahahahah, I know you got pics! What did you spray the lower hull below the scum line for the XXIII weathered look?
Do I have a photo?
Do.
I.
Have.
A.
Photo????
You're kidding!?... right?










The adhesive is water soluble (but becomes waterproof once dry) 'artist medium', used to prepare canvas for paint work. Another visit to woke-land (art supply store) will net you this stuff. The green 'Turf' is sold wherever they sell model train stuff.
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