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Moebius Skipjack

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  • #76
    From my previous question I should have plenty of room in front of the SD for anything. Found my own answer.

    I wanted a good place to mount the key-fob unit. Since there was plenty of room in the forward chamber I built a tray to mount the device. I like the outcome.

    More details here... https://kensmodelboats.com/uss-skipjack/

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    • #77
      That shelf is a great idea, it serves to keep things neat and holds the battery from shifting. Excellent!
      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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      • #78
        SD foundations are in. For the forward foundation I cut the service slots for the shock absorber before I glued the foundations in place, made things easier. I read thru Tom's build and saw he had an issue with the strap foundation with the bolt hole being over a vent. I thought I had it covered, but I didn't, duh. I'll be moving the bolt hole back a little and then open up that vent, just like he did. Besides, the bolt hole in that spot was stripped in the foundation, so a new hole would have been needed anyway.

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        How and why did I miss this, ugh!!!
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        • #79
          Working on the torpedo tube doors. Next working how to hinge them which is proving to be a challenge.

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          Looks out of focus
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          Held in place with tape, temporary. The forward locator post was removed.
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          • #80
            For hinges what if you squirt a couple of lines of silicone on doors then back onto hull surface.
            Might be flexible enough and fit/fab would just be a squeeze.
            If it don't work peal it off. Look at the hinge on a baby wipe box.
            Last edited by Scott T; 01-28-2021, 06:05 PM.

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            • #81
              Good suggestion with the silicone. If my plan C that I'm working on now falls thru I'll give it a shot. Whatever I do it needs to be sturdy.

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              • #82

                Made progress on door hinges. Made a strap which was glued to the back of the doors. The hole for the bolt is a slip fit on the strap. Once that was done I started on the foundations which were a pain in the a**. They kept getting smaller and smaller and difficult to hold or clamp and file to the correct shape. Not happy how they look but they are functional. Nobody will never see them once the model is done. The bolt hole in the foundation was drilled then tapped for the 080 machine screw. The bolts are not matched vertically and the left door opens slightly lower than the right, not a big deal as again, they will not been seen internally when opened. They close and open well. These are on the lower hull, the upper hull is next. Have to figure why my pictures come out grainy.

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                • #83
                  Nice!...........
                  Resident Luddite

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                  • #84
                    Thanks David.

                    The previous post was for the lower doors on the lower hull. With those I made the hinge strap first, then the foundation.

                    While working on the upper door hinges I made an improvement to the foundation which I made first, then made the hinge strap. The upper hull hinges came out much better. I then ripped out the lower hinge and started over, repeating how I did the upper hinge assembly. All the torpedo doors open and close smoothly and are aligned quite well. Now I'm satisfied how they came out. Once I get the upper and lower hulls glued together and the Z cut done I'll return to this and work on the opening mechanism. Next up I'll be working on the port and starboard nav lights extending out of the sail.

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                    • #85
                      The P&S running lights on my Marlin pop out and turn on when they pop out. Going to do something similar on the Skipjack.

                      Here is a test piece with the lights retracted.

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                      Light extended outwards.
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                      The inner workings. The small brass outer section will be mounted within the sail. The inner section will slide out to display the Nav light. These are just a test sample.

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                      This is the actual inner section. I don't have the square brass tube yet that this will slide in, its on order. The LED will mount in the hole in the small piece.
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                      Here the square piece is soldered into position.
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                      Here's the 1.8mm LED that will be fixed in position.
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                      Still thinking whether I can have a covering door that is 1/4 inch square. Have no idea how to hinge it so a cover opens and closes over the opening.

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                      • #86
                        Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                        The P&S running lights on my Marlin pop out and turn on when they pop out. Going to do something similar on the Skipjack.

                        Here is a test piece with the lights retracted.

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                        Light extended outwards.
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                        The inner workings. The small brass outer section will be mounted within the sail. The inner section will slide out to display the Nav light. These are just a test sample.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        This is the actual inner section. I don't have the square brass tube yet that this will slide in, its on order. The LED will mount in the hole in the small piece.
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                        Here the square piece is soldered into position.
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                        Here's the 1.8mm LED that will be fixed in position.
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                        Still thinking whether I can have a covering door that is 1/4 inch square. Have no idea how to hinge it so a cover opens and closes over the opening.
                        Ken!

                        Your Torpedo doors are really looking well thought out to this point. I like to see how you guys use the different materials to achieve your intended goals! Those doors are going to be a nice touch on your Skipjack!!

                        Rob
                        "Firemen can stand the heat"
                        "Perfection is our goal. Excellence will be tolerated"

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                        • #87
                          Thank you Rob!

                          I have the lower hull sections glued together. I treated both sections of the joint first with a liquid solvent, then applied Weldon 16. The liquid solvent dries pretty quickly. The Weldon 16 kinda went on thickish and was difficult to spread. Any tips on spreading the Weldon 16? Is applying it to one joint sufficient?
                          Last edited by Ken_NJ; 02-05-2021, 11:53 PM.

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                          • #88
                            Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                            Thank you Rob!

                            I have the lower hull sections glued together. I treated both sections of the joint first with a liquid solvent, then applied Weldon 16. The liquid solvent dries pretty quickly. The Weldon 16 kinda went on thickish and was difficult to spread. Any tips on spreading the Weldon 16? Is applying it to one joint sufficient?
                            Cut the Weldon-16 with liquid solvent to a brushable consistency and apply to the work with a brush.
                            Resident Luddite

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                            • #89
                              Thanks David, that worked well.

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                              • #90
                                Hey Ken-I drew this out at breakfast this morning- it maybe something or that could help or not-BG


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